
Class 



' 



Book - 37 

Copyright^ . 



COPYRIGHT DEPOSIT 



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THE 

GARDEN BEAUTIFUL 

IN CALIFORNIA 



A PRACTICAL MANUAL 
FOR ALL WHO GARDEN 



BY 



ERNEST BRAUNTON 
\\ 

LANDSCAPE DESIGNER 
AND HORTICULTURIST 




CULTIVATOR PUBLISHING CO. 

LOS ANGELES, CAL. 

1915 



<m 



Copyright 1915 

by 

Cultivator Publishing Company 

and 

Ernest Braunton 



+1 



' 



NOV 13 1915 
g)CI.A4l6378 



T IS neither wise, nor tender, 
nor loving, to remit to others, 
however expert, the supreme 
care of one's garden. You will 

S*^ tend yours with your own 

aa^ hands, and discover its needs 
with your own heart, and if, in 
doing so, you have to withdraw 
yourselves sometimes, more than accords 
with modern wont, into rural seclusion, your 
social instincts will not thereby be starved, 
nor your share in the graces and charities 
of life thereby be curtailed. You will find 
much resemblance between flowers and hu- 
man beings, for they too grow reserved un- 
der coldness or mal-treatment, and respond 
with almost feminine alacrity to every sym- 
pathetic endeavor to apprehend them." — 
Alfred Austin. 




A CALIFORNIA GARDEN SCENE 
Mission Santa Barbara 



THE 

GARDEN BEAUTIFUL 

CHAPTER I 

PLANNING THE PLACE 

Let us begin our garden making in a sympathetic 
spirit, seeking to cultivate contentment and peace of 
mind as well as the soil ; to love plants and take pleas- 
ure in caring for them ; to find relief and relaxation 
in all gardening operations. 

Let us do the best we can with what is at hand or 
may easily be found nor strive for the spectacular 
nor regard our work as a task or as a weighty prob- 
lem. In short, let us be happy, however much or lit- 
tle we may do, for if we make our garden beautiful 
we shall learn to love it, whether our efforts be con- 
fined to the care of a window-box or lavished upon 
broad acres. 

Let us be governed by a desire to please and sat- 
isfy, not alone ourselves, but others ; not by gaining 
unusual or unnatural results, but by making all so 
simple and homelike that every visitor will enjoy 
the quiet restfulness and sufficiency of the whole, 
the charm of response to every simple and natural 
desire. Do not attempt too much. Before beginning 
the plan — for every garden should have a plan be- 
fore any work is done — set down upon paper all the 
things you feel an attractive homelike garden should 
have. 

This does not mean a list of the plants and flowers 



8 THE GARDEN BEAUTIFUL 

you wish — such are mere incidentals — the material 
with which you build and finish the picture. Begin 
with fundamentals. Lightly sketch where paths are 
needed, and have none you do not need. Provide 
for comfort, interest, even instruction. Will you 
have an arbor, one or more garden seats, a gazing 
globe, and where? Are you interested in sundials? 
If so, have one by all means, for there is no place on 
earth where the sun shines more than in California, 
and therefore we may make more use of them than 
other and less fortunate peoples. Our mild and 
equable climate allows us to get about the garden 
with pleasure nearly every day throughout the year. 
Have some sort of a water garden, even if no more 
than a half-barrel submerged to a level with the 
garden plane; for in a semiarid land having few 
natural streams, ponds, or lakes, an aquatic feature, 
however tiny, cannot fail to attract and interest and 
lend strength and balance to the landscape. Uncon- 
sciously we derive a certain amount of comfort from 
proximity to water, for of all natural elements it is 
the one most necessary to the preservation of life 
and health, therefore its simple presence is sooth- 
ing and satisfying. 

What to Avoid 

Do not group garden accessories and conveniences 
too closely about the house, for every house has at 
least one porch built for use. Therefore place seats, 
arbors, etc., as far from the residence as is conven- 
ient, for then you avoid any suggestion of competi- 
tion. 

Likewise, and for similar reasons, place ponds, 
pools and rock gardens quite remote. The house, its 
interior and immediate surroundings, have, or 
should have, charms peculiarly their own, and each 



IN CALIFORNIA 9 

part of the garden should in some degree rival their 
attractions. A really fundamental or basic garden 
spirit should prevail throughout the grounds so that 
visitors as well as yourself will feel that the dwell- 




A COVERED GARDEN SEAT 



ing and its contents are not the only permanent at- 
tractions on the premises. 

Do not place any object or strive for an effect 
merely because another has such things. Have your 
garden smack of originality. If you have elsewhere 
observed something you desire do not have an exact 
reproduction, but show your personal taste in slight 
changes and modifications, weaving in throughout 



10 THE GARDEN BEAUTIFUL 

the whole a thread, even though slight, of originality. 
In all phases and considerations, even in the choice 
of trees, shrubs, vines, etc., that you use, please your- 
self, yet be guided by the experience of others to the 
extent of choosing from a list of plants known to 
thrive in your locality or under similar conditions. 
The most successful garden is the one that gives its 
owner the greatest pleasure no matter what he 
grows. 

What to Grow 

Begin garden planting in harmony with natural 
conditions and needs. Grow only plants that are 
known to do well under conditions of soil and climate 
comparable with those obtaining in your garden, 
more particularly trees and shrubs, for these make 
the foundation and framework of the garden. If 
you indulge in a few novelties or tender plants in 
herbaceous material, they are but incidentals, and 
if failure results the garden plan is not interfered 
with, for the fundamental work still stands. 

Do not have many kinds of plants, for miscellane- 
ous mixtures seriously detract from the restfulness, 
simplicity and dignity of the garden. If you have 
trial grounds for experimental planting then collec- 
tions of many kinds are desirable, but for a home 
garden you should rather have many of a kind. In 
the former numerous labels are a necessity; in the 
home garden there should be none. Have a plan of 
your garden on paper; note thereon the position of 
every plant by number. Jot down these key num- 
bers on the margin of the plan, on a separate sheet, 
or, better still, keep a garden book of records. After 
each number place both botanical and popular name 
of plant. Then labels may come and labels may 
go, but the records remain forever. When you have 



IN CALIFORNIA 11 

the work under way as herein outlined and have 
become really interested, then you are indeed under 
the magic spell of the true garden spirit, the per- 
fect peace (for the time being) that overcometh all 
troubles and sorrows, that undefined and undefinable 
natural charm that woos and wins every impres- 
sionable soul seeking to build the garden beautiful. 

Landscape or Natural Gardening 
It is nearly 300 years since Francis Bacon said: 
"God Almighty first planted a garden, and indeed it 
is the purest of human pleasures. It is the greatest 
refreshment to the spirit of man, without which 
buildings and palaces are but gross handiworks ; and 
a man shall see that when ages grow to civility and 
elegancy, men come to build stately sooner than to 
garden finely, as if gardening were the greater per- 
fection." 

There are but three styles of gardening though 
there are many types. These three are : Formal, or 
architectural gardening; natural, or landscape gar- 
dening; and picturesque gardening; the last but a 
blending or combination of the other two, which are 
after all the only distinct styles universally recog- 
nized. It is the natural or landscape gardening that 
we deal with mainly, incorporating only so much of 
the formal as the problem under consideration seems 
to require. In landscape gardening we are governed 
by many rules, of which but three are really funda- 
mental, the others being subsidiary, though all are 
dictated by nature. These three are in the order of 
importance: Preserve open lawn centers; plant in 
masses and not isolated; avoid straight lines. A 
brief explanation of each rule is here given. 



12 THE GARDEN BEAUTIFUL 

PRESERVE OPEN LAWN CENTERS 

A front yard cluttered up with trees and shrubs is 
never attractive. The simpler picture is the stronger 
one. The lawn should be left as large and as unob- 
structed as possible. Many planters, having at their 
disposal but a small front lawn, usually (and unfor- 
tunately) bisected by a cement walk to the front 
door, feel it incumbent upon them to completely fill 
the two limited areas by planting some large-grow- 
ing palms, or other trees, usually two Phoenix Cana- 
densis. Having thus planted it is quite impossible 
to stand in the center of your landscape and see 
about you, as you should be able to do, a fine variety 
of plant life. 

Those who have lived in the Mississippi Valley or 
in states farther east will doubtless recall seeing lit- 
tle openings or natural clearings in the woods, con- 
sisting of one or many acres. Though in the midst 
of the forest, the floor or greensward remains invio- 
late, not a tree or shrub upon it. Grass and herba- 
ceous flowering plants form the cover or carpet; 
bushes and larger shrubs edge it about; next small 
trees; and then the forest giants frame the whole, 
making a perfect amphitheater; a miniature land- 
scape, perhaps, yet complete in every detail. Then 
may the joyous discoverer stand in the center and see 
all about him the varied wonders of the local native 
vegetation. Many a time and oft, in boyhood's 
happy days, has the author been overjoyed with the 
finding of such beauty spots and stood spellbound 
and awed by the overwhelming attractiveness of the 
scene. Would that puny man could build gardens of 
equal charm ! 

Allow your lawn centers to remain open and clear 
that the whole yard may appear as large as possible ; 



IN CALIFORNIA 



13 




AN IDEAL PLAN— FOOTPATH ONLY 



14 THE GARDEN BEAUTIFUL 

generous, yet well and fittingly framed with plants, 
shrubs, and trees on all sides. If you must have a 
large, spreading palm on a small lot, place it at the 
side of the house, well toward the rear, or, better 
still, in the back yard where it may also serve as a 
shade tree. Yet even there the same rules properly 
should obtain that govern the planting in front. 
Better to use fan palms, if you must have palms, or 
plant the more beautiful Cocos plumosa, of which 
we have some hardy varieties. Avoid, if possible, 
cutting your front lawn in two equal parts unless 
a purely formal effect is desired. Rather have the 
front walk well to one side and thus gain a larger 
single lawn. This procedure will also allow a grace- 
ful, sweeping curve in the approach to the front 
entrance, a pleasing variation from the usual inar- 
tistic straight-from-gate-to-door plan. 

PLANT IN MASSES 

Plant in masses and not in isolated specimens 
dotted about here and there; group instead of scat- 
tering. Orchards are systematically planted for 
economic reasons, giving each tree a like amount of 
space. This insures uniformity of growth and bear- 
ing and ease and economy in cultivation, irrigation 
and harvesting. No such considerations govern the 
planting of ornamentals. On the contrary, art, with 
a due regard for utility, is the inspiration of the 
landscape designer. Therefore, have tree and shrub- 
bery masses irregular in outline, in gently-flowing 
curves, not abrupt, nor yet in straight lines. 

Trees, shrubs and lowly plants should be grouped, 
each kind by itself, for nature so disposes them, and 
we should aim to copy nature. In this way you will 
not only get artistic and natural effects, but also 
decided character, for planted in this manner every 



IN CALIFORNIA 



15 



Berr/ee and l/e>ye>ta6/e'<5- 



Wa//c 




AN IDEAL PLAN WITH DRIVE 



16 



THE GARDEN BEAUTIFUL 



part of the garden stands for one thing, and one 
only, and there are no duplications in plan or plant- 
ing. There- 
fore, every 
step forward 
marks an ad- 
vance into 
something 
new, and 
from one end 
to the other 
"no scene is 
twice seen," 
nor anything 
either in ma- 
terial or ef- 
fect met with 
a second 
time. It 
would nei- 
ther be prop- 
er, nor pleas- 
ing, to find 
roses and 
carnations, 
or pines and 
acacias scat- 
tered thr'gh- 
out the gar- 
den, for all 
parts would 
then contain 
similar ef- 

■fpp-J-a o y\ fl 

THIS ILLUSTRATION SHOWS HOW A CITY p l, QV5 ,«4- on 

lot mat be laid out to conform cnaracter. 

WITH ALL THE RULES OF LAND- TV»ptv> wrmlrl 

SCAPE GARDENING inere WOU1Q 




IN CALIFORNIA 17 

be no incentive or stimulus for a walk about a gar- 
den where one glance at any part would suffice to 
show the plants and their disposition obtaining in 
all parts. Some of the finest examples of beauty in 
arrangement may be observed in the shrubbery 
masses on shaded hillsides in the wilds. 

AVOID STRAIGHT LINES 

Nature makes no straight lines; for whether it 
be the canopy above, the horizon about us, the shore 
of ocean or lake, the course of streams, the lines of 
a horse, bird, or other animal, beautiful curves, in 
variety, everywhere abound. Without some specific 
guide, such as a taut cord or a straight-edge, man 
cannot make a straight line. It must then be appar- 
ent that nature never expected he should try. 

Those who have trampled over freshly fallen snow, 
though intent upon going in a straight line from one 
point to another, may easily descry, by looking back- 
ward upon their course, the most beautiful and 
smoothly-flowing curves traced upon earth's other- 
wise spotless mantle. Even the paths of wild or 
domestic animals are of most artistic and gentle 
departure from the monotonous straight line. 

Nevertheless, we should not violate the dictates 
of common sense by instituting a curve or curves in 
a walk but a few paces long. Curves should not be 
made that would subject the maker to ridicule, yet 
they are, otherwise, always permissible, and advis- 
able, if it is possible to have them without showing 
a strained effect or too great abruptness. If it is 
found advisable or necessary to make a short or 
sharp curve, plant in the "bay" a large shrub or 
tree, or a group or object of a large and permanent 
nature, made to appear as though present before the 
path and therefore making the curve a necessity in 



18 THE GARDEN BEAUTIFUL 

order to get around this previously occupied point. 
General Advice 

Assuming that the garden plat, or at least the part 
immediately about the residence, is fairly level, the 
surface should be so graded, if possible, that water 
will drain from the house toward all points of the 
compass. The soil for this purpose may usually be 
taken from near the outer boundaries, or, better still, 
from an excavation for a pond, something without 
which no large orderly garden is complete. If you 
have plenty of soil the lawns may be filled up in and 
about the center to give a rounded appearance, for 
natural lawns are seldom or never smooth and flat. 
The surface should also drain slightly toward the 
pond site so that the presence of water there will 
appear natural, being in a depression. 

In rebuilding a garden turn under a liberal 
supply of stable manure over the entire area. If 
any large trees or shrubs are in the way, leave them 
if it can be done without too great a sacrifice and 
make the subsequent or new planting conform so 
far as possible. Place the pond, if you are to have 
one, so it will not be shaded by buildings, trees or 
other large objects; for aquatic life, either animal 
or vegetable, does not succeed in shade. Planting 
at the waterside should be confined to the north side 
and northerly corners. At all other points keep 
large plants farther away to allow of unobstructed 
sunshine on the water throughout the day. 

The garden should be enclosed on sides and back 
with a wall, hedge, or vine-covered fence. Along 
the front it is more a matter of taste, though if the 
property belonged to the author the fence or hedge 
should inclose it on all sides ; low on front and sides 
to rear of house, and much higher around the back 



IN CALIFORNIA 19 

yard. Better still would be a low wall along the 
front and sides, rising to a greater height opposite 
the rear corners of the residence. 

Aside from providing privacy, snugness, and se- 
clusion, such inclosure will keep out would-be in- 
truders, dogs, paper, leaves and other wind-blown 
rubbish, and catch and hold much of the dust which 
otherwise would reach the house. It also allows the 
garden to be finished right out to the edge, which 
it could not be were it not divided from surrounding 
property. If the lot is deep the back yard may be 
cut off by a hedge, but if this is done put it as far 
back as possible and as low as its purpose will 
allow, for a large yard is indicative of good taste, 
liberal ideas, generosity and good-fellowship. The 
landscape possibilities, too, are much greater, and 
the general effect more impressive, without division. 

Formal Gardens 

If a formal, Italian, Japanese or other style of 
garden is to be incorporated in the plan of a large 
landscape, it should be set off by a wall, hedge, or 
fence, so as not to be brought into contrast with the 
larger and more natural prospect or outlook. For- 
mal or architectural gardens should be built close 
to the dwelling so that all architectural effects are 
kept together. 

Utility Plats 

Utility areas should also be screened from the 
main prospect, for clotheslines, ash barrels, wood- 
piles, compost heaps and rubbish piles must not be 
in view of visitors to the pleasure garden. It is 
often possible to use pergolas to connect two separate 
or distinct parts of a garden and also have them as 
a shield to obscure undesirable features or acces- 



20 



THE GARDEN BEAUTIFUL 



sories, but never erect a pergola unless its purpose 
is apparent to even the casual observer. In no other 
way do Californians so often violate good taste in 




9^ / ' y^^W^^' "'** 

A CLASSIC PERGOLA 



garden building as by the erection of purposeless 
pergolas. 

The Back Yard 

The back yard should be attractive, interesting, 
and far more homelike and comfortable than the 
front yard. The same rules of planning should 



IN CALIFORNIA 21 

apply, but they need not be so closely observed. The 
back yard should be largely a "family affair." If 
there is insufficient room at the side of the house, to- 
ward the rear, for tennis court or croquet grounds, 
where these are desired, the back yard is the proper 
place for them. 

Here is the part upon which to lavish your homely 
affections. Have a place in which to swing a ham- 
mock and have at least one arbor or covered seat or 
a playhouse for the children, and if there is sufficient 
room, have them all, and more. Here arbors may 
be covered with grapes or other vines of economic 
value. The ornamental trees and shrubs may be of 
orange, loquat, avocado, guava, carissa and others 
bearing edible crops. The herbs may be artichoke, 
rhubarb and parsley. In the borders may be all 
sorts of vegetables in clumps and patches; still it 
may conform more or less to the first rule of land- 
scaping — preserve open centers. 

At the extreme rear should be the chief back- 
ground of the whole picture, a background of some 
solidarity, whether of fruit trees or a tangled mass 
of vines over a tall fence. If at the south end of 
the premises the taller shade trees may be used, 
planted for ornament, yet where their shade may 
contribute to the comfort of the household. It may 
be that a lawn is desirable even though it prove a 
bleaching ground for the family washing and is cen- 
tered by a revolving clothes dryer. If grass is 
thought to involve too much labor in caretaking or 
too much dampness through watering, here is a 
chance for lippia, which needs no summer watering, 
and the more it is trod upon the better it will qualify 
as a mere soil cover to protect all from either dust 
or mud, or both. If ash and garbage cans, compost 



22 THE GARDEN BEAUTIFUL 

heaps, or hotbeds are necessary or advisable, screen 
them off from the general view by means of shrubs 
or vine-covered trellises, but do not give up making 
the back yard interesting and attractive for the rea- 
son that these things are present. Recognize utility, 
but do not banish order, comfort and all display of 
artistic effects. 

Utility Should Govern. 

So far as regards approaches and walks to and 
from buildings, the object of their introduction is 
sufficiently apparent; but, in laying out pleasure 
grounds, it is a too common practice to introduce 
walks for the mere purpose of variety. This is a 
very questionable reason at best, and not always 
successfully accomplished ; but even in cases of this 
kind, they should appear to aim for some definite 
object, or lead to points of sufficient importance to 
suggest their utility. The guiding principle in de- 
signing the position of roads and walks should be 
utility. Nature forms no roads. They are the 
works of men and animals, and would undoubtedly 
always proceed in nearly straight lines from point 
to point, if obstructions of various kinds did not 
interfere and cause deviations. Necessity will there- 
fore suggest where and how they should be intro- 
duced. 




1. NATIVE STRAWBERRY LAWN, Fragaria Chiloensis 
2. BACKYARD LAWN, Lippia canescens 



CHAPTER II 

LAWNS AND SOIL COVERS 

The work of making a fine greensward is the most 
particular piece of handicraft in the garden, for it 
is the actual foundation and will never present a 
smoother or more even surface than the day it is 
sown. 

Slight inequalities of surface will become more 
pronounced with time; soft spots will settle, while 
hard places will always remain the highest. Lawn 
surfaces should therefore be made as smooth and 
even as possible; mistakes can be remedied only by 
taking up the sod and making the lawn over. In 
England they say it takes a hundred years to make 
a good lawn, and one eastern coast writer says: 
"Four things are required to make a good lawn; 
time, soil, climate and intelligent labor." Neither 
expression fits California, for we do not need time, 
as it is understood east of the Rockies. 

The greensward is the one permanent feature of 
a yard; therefore, let us have the very best obtain- 
able. Our flower beds may be moved or the plants 
in other parts of the garden changed every year, 
but we expect the lawn to remain ever the same. 
One of the first essentials for a lawn is good soil. 
Many complain that they have black adobe and "it 
is so hard to do anything with," but it is the best 
medium in which to grow a fine lawn, even as sand 
is the poorest. In enriching the soil it is well to 
understand that it cannot be made too rich for blue 
grass. After one gets the surface in proper condi- 



24 THE GARDEN BEAUTIFUL 

tion, the sowing and after care cannot be too care- 
fully attended to; it is a job worthy of a first-class 
lawnmaker, and no one who can afford to hire help 
should attempt his own lawnmaking. 

Making the Lawn 

Close observation for a score of years has con- 
vinced the writer that for California in general soil 
prepared in March and sown early in April will 
result in giving us the best of lawns, varying the 
time according to season and prevailing tempera- 
tures in your section. Autumn lawnmaking is usual- 
ly attended with an equal degree of success, but in 
cold sections the young grass is often caught "in 
the milk" stage by severe frosts and sometimes 
killed, though to offset such risk the season offers 
the welcome rains, for spring-sown lawns necessi- 
tate careful artificial sprinkling. 

The first work should be a deep and thorough stir- 
ring of the soil, without which no crop will grow, 
whether it be grass or trees. When stirring the 
soil mix in a liberal amount of well-rotted stable 
manure (four inches is not too much) and do not 
be content with merely turning it under where it 
will lie in chunks for years to come. The full value 
of fertilizers comes only from thorough incorpora- 
tion with the soil. Gardeners too often turn under 
raw bone meal and leave it, a handful in a place. 
Used in this way it does not all become available 
to plant life for several years. It should be evenly 
scattered and thoroughly mixed with the soil and 
even then it is largely fertilizing for future years. 

Stable manures, while more readily available to 
the plant at any stage, should undergo the same 
thorough incorporation, for after a lawn is once 
sown you cannot get under it to stir the soil except 



IN CALIFORNIA 25 

at the added expense of a new lawn. Nearly all 
fertilizer works make a special fertilizer for this 
preliminary use, which has the advantage of contain- 
ing no seeds of weeds or Bermuda grass, which often 
prove before eradicated more expensive than all 
other work connected with the making of new lawns. 

Superphosphate. 



Thomas slag. 



* ninfn nl|iTntf _ dT^f""]/ L/\ iC ^M. >z /V^\r^^^ Barnyard manure 

and guano. 




Lime nitrogen (qal- 
cium cyanamld). \S^r=^V/ \? / V</ \ \<f \ /jU=^P Norwegian nitrate 

(basic calcium 
nitrate). 



Kainlt. 

Nitrate of soda. ^XF~^ ■ ^CT Bo ne meal. 

INCOMPATIBLES IN FERTILIZER MIXTURES 

The danger of indiscriminate mixing of fertilizers is shown in the 
accompanying diagram taken from Farmers' Bulletin 388. Some 
materials may be mixed with beneficial results, others not. The dia- 
gram indicates what fertilizer materials may not be safely mixed. The 
dark lines unite materials which should never be mixed, the double 
lines those which should be applied immediately after mixing, and the 
single lines those which may be mixed at any time. 

Because of such seeds being present, all stable ma- 
nures should be thoroughly rotted. Never use fresh 
or unseasoned manure in lawn work if avoidable 
either before or after sowing or for fertilizing old 
lawns. 

After fertilizing and spading let the soil rest until 
dry enough to work, then tread carefully over every 



26 THE GARDEN BEAUTIFUL 

foot of it with your feet close together. This is not 
much of a job on small lawns. On large lawns a 
roller is used, but this does not find the small soft 
spots as well as your feet, and sufficient time may 
be spent on a small lawn to do the work properly. 
This treading will insure an even surface and no 
future settling. Next rake the low spots full of soil 
and make firm, leaving the surface just as smooth 
as a floor if possible, for as you leave it so will it 
always remain. See that the surface soil is pul- 
verized as finely as possible. If the surface is dry 
when you wish to sow the seed, give it a very light 
sprinkling of water and wait an hour or two for it 
to get past the sticky stage and then sow the seed. 
Sow very early or very late in the day, if in a windy 
section, as perfect calm is needed for proper dis- 
tribution of the light grass seed. 

Begin sowing at the rear, using boards to walk 
on as you "retreat forward," for after the surface 
is ready for sowing you must not set foot upon it 
until the first mowing, and even this is best done 
from boards. After sowing the seed and raking it 
in, lightly and gently, sow over the surface an inch 
or so of well-rotted manure which has been sifted 
through a sieve of not more than one inch mesh. 
Planing-mill shavings will also do, but they should 
be thoroughly wetted a few days in advance of use. 
After this give the lawn a good but very careful 
watering. 

This first watering, as well as subsequent ones, 
must be given with extreme care and the water uni- 
formly distributed in a fine spray so seeds will not 
be washed about or little channels made in the soil 
covering or in the surface soil itself. As soon as 
weeds are large enough to pull, get boards to kneel 



IN CALIFORNIA 27 

on and weed the grass or whatever soil cover you 
have sown. Better use two wide boards, one to kneel 
on and the other for your feet, or the toes of your 
shoes will spoil much new lawn. 

When the young grass becomes tall enough to 
make the least cutting possible, get at it with a sharp 
mower and cut thereafter as often as growth makes 
it possible, for only by so doing will you quickly get 
a perfect carpet of living green. Either mow the 
first time from boards or tread very carefully flat- 
footed while doing the work or you will either 
seriously tear up the surface or make it full of ugly 
indentations. To overcome this trouble it is advis- 
able to roll the new lawn several times with a light 
roller just as soon as the grass is well up ; certainly 
not later than immediately after the first mowing. 
One pound of blue grass seed will sow 200 square 
feet, or an area of 10x20 feet. One pound of white 
clover seed will sow 300 square feet, or an area of 
10x30 feet. 

Care of Lawns 

During even the hottest weather the average 
lawn is injudiciously watered. Few home owners 
begin the care of lawns properly or methodically. 
From the time the young grass appears the inch or 
two of top soil is given light sprinklings daily, with 
the result that all roots remain near the surface. 
If such a lawn goes unsprinkled for even one day 
during hot weather, it shows distress. After a lawn 
is well established water only when the grass needs 
it and then do it most thoroughly. Then, when the 
surface supply is exhausted, the roots will go down 
into the moist subsoil in search of water. So treated 
the grass will finally reach such a condition that if 



28 THE GARDEN BEAUTIFUL 

left unwatered for a few days, or even a week, it will 
not suffer permanent harm. 

Lawns should be cut frequently during hot weath- 
er, about once a week, for the reason that it is advis- 
able to make the least possible change in general 
exposure. If left until very long and then closely 
cut it will suffer from sunburn in both blade and 
root. Do not needlessly expose the roots to the sum- 
mer's sun; therefore, during the hottest weather 
keep the cutter high, leaving the grass rather long 
throughout the season, but mow frequently, allowing 
the short clippings to fall down among the standing 
blades to form a mulch for the roots. If the cut 
grass mildews or moulds, as it may during cool or 
cloudy weather, it may be raked off and subsequent 
cuttings caught in a hopper, but with the return of 
sunshine remove the hopper and allow the mulch to 
re-form. 

Lawn Grasses 

All keen observers will agree that the fine tex- 
ture, rich green color and smooth even growth of 
Poa pratensis, the Kentucky blue grass, prove it to 
be more desirable as a ground cover than any other 
known, and it should be used wherever conditions 
are favorable to establishment and maintenance of 
lawn grass. The most closely similar species 
is P. arachnifera, a Texan species. A sub- 
stitute, used in cheap mixtures, is P. compressa, 
the Canadian blue grass. The latter is flatter, more 
wiry and bluer than Kentucky grass and is good on 
dry sand, clay, or poor soils where the others do not 
thrive. P. nemoralis, the wood meadow grass, is 
good for shady places in woodlands, yet resistant to 
heat. In the Eastern states' Agrostis canina, the 
Rhode Island bent grass, makes a fine close turf of 



IN CALIFORNIA 29 

good color on sandy seasides and should thrive in 
California. Eastward they also have a "beach" 
grass known to dealers and botanists as Ammophila 
arenaria, or arundinacea, that is successfully used 
on seacoast embankments to hold dry, loose soils and 
drifting sands. In California the Australian rye 
grass is much used for shady places and for lawns 
where less care and water can be given — a lazy 
man's grass, but inferior to Kentucky blue grass. 

WHITE OR DUTCH CLOVER 

White or Dutch clover is often used to mix with 
blue grass in lawns. The clover seed, being much 
heavier, should be sown separately and in quantity 
about one-fourth. Clover is also excellent for con- 
trol of Bermuda grass. Many prefer a lawn wholly 
of white clover, and if so, a pound of seed will sow 
very nearly twice the area that a pound of grass seed 
will. It thrives with less water and is superior to 
Kentucky grass for sandy soils and also does better 
close to the ocean where it requires still less water 
than it does inland. 

Prof. E. J. Wickson says that clover is favorably 
regarded by him for the reason that it is more ten- 
der than grass and therefore more easily cut with a 
dull lawn mower, a type of machine he claims to 
have constantly and permanently on hand, though 
boasting of no exclusiveness in the ownership of 
such equipment. 

Clover lawns usually need inoculation with nitri- 
fying bacteria. There are several ways of getting 
this. The most primitive, most troublesome, yet 
most effective way is to get soil from a very healthy, 
vigorous growth of clover and scatter it over the 
new or sick clover lawn and wash it in with water. 
This is easy if you know such a lawn that you can 



30 THE GARDEN BEAUTIFUL 

disturb to obtain a quart or so of surface soil. The 
easier way is to buy a small amount of some com- 
mercial preparation from a seed store. These are 
effective and simply applied. All clover lawns should 
be so treated if the growth is weakly or of poor color. 

LIPPIA CANESCENS 

In many sections Lippia canescens, distributed in 
California as L. repens, is rapidly forcing out all 
other plants used for lawn making, yet people in 
semiarid sections or where the water supply is 
limited continue to struggle with blue grass. Lippia 
is no doubt the most drouth resistant plant we have 
in our gardens and should be treated accordingly. 
That it will stand any California conditions is evi- 
dent from the following extract from the annual 
report of the Arizona Experiment Station : 

"The fog-fruit has again proved its superior qual- 
ities as a lawn plant, since during the past summer 
it was able to endure all ordinary drouth conditions 
without harm, also maintaining itself for eight 
months on the mesa with less than two inches of 
rainfall. When grown side by side with Bermuda 
grass it proved superior in every respect. To secure 
the quickest as well as the most satisfactory results 
on the lawn, the soil should be spaded, mixed with 
well-rotted manure, and the plants freely watered. 
During the present summer the lawns of lippia along 
Third Street, Tucson, planted in ordinary mesa soil 
and exposed to our intense conditions, have pre- 
served a carpet of green which has often been beau- 
tifully variegated with the rose purple blossoms." 

Every year adds to the reputation of lippia for 
lawn purposes under conditions unfavorable to 
grass, for it may be found thriving in almost all 
soils and in as varied locations. For those who wish 



IN CALIFORNIA 31 

a lawn at the seaside nothing will equal it as a 
ground cover. No one who has taken note of it on 
the Coronado Hotel grounds would bother with any 
other plant for lawns of great extent near the ocean 
front or on sands of this nature. It is the only plant 
that could be used to effectively hold the loose soil 
there and preserve a perfect carpet over the whole. 
Intending planters should remember that seeds can- 
not be procured, cuttings must be used to establish 
a growth. It also is not hardy enough to endure 
freezing weather, being native to the tropics. 

Terrace Coverings 

A great diversity of opinion prevails as to what 
is the most effective covering for banks and terraces, 
both as regards appearances and soil-staying quali- 
ties. Some prefer roses like Wichuriana or Chero- 
kee, but if the soil be friable, too much of it is 
washed away before the vines form a ground cover. 
To prevent washing from excessive watering it is 
best, above each plant, to set in the soil an ordinary 
fruit or tomato can with several nail holes punctur- 
ing the bottom. These may quickly be filled from a 
hose and allowed to remain permanently, for in time 
the vines will cover them and they will still catch a 
goodly share of the falling water and allow it to 
slowly percolate into the soil about the plant roots. 
If either of the roses mentioned is used, it is best 
to encourage growth in all directions and peg down 
every foot or two feet of stem. A still better way 
perhaps is to layer it. Scratch out narrow slots in 
the earth a foot or more apart along the growing 
stem, push the stem down into these places and pack 
soil solidly on top. In time the points of contact 
with the ground will take root and do much toward 
making a solid, soil-staying bank covering. 



32 THE GARDEN BEAUTIFUL 

Others prefer the fine-leafed ice plant, Mesembry- 
anthemum densum, but it is not a soil binder, merely 
a cover that does not root except at one point, the 
main stem of the plant. The stems spread out in 
every direction for several feet, so that a bank eight 
feet high may easily be covered by plants set on the 
top level. Unless the soil beneath is very solid, al- 
most rock, it will eventually by erosion wash into 
gutters which each year become deeper until one is 
surprised by an extensive and wholly unsuspected 
landslide. This ice plant blossoms most profusely, 
but the color is not a pleasing one, though there are 
several larger leaved species with flowers in other 
shades and colors. 

Lippia canescens is a soil binder in the strictest 
sense of the word, rooting at every node or joint, and 
these are but two to four inches apart. Because of 
this frequent rooting lippia makes a very good bank 
cover and is each year receiving wider recognition 
for this purpose. It is not necessary to mow or cut 
it, for the plant is of prostrate habit, and with all 
the encouragement we may give it the result is a 
thick mat but three inches deep which will overhang 
walls for several feet without supporting soil as 
readily as will the ice plant. In rather cold locali- 
ties the color becomes very dull in winter, and the 
plant is occasionally somewhat damaged by frost, 
often dropping its leaves, to be renewed in warmer 
weather. 

A prostrate juniper, English ivy, the "myrtle," 
or vinca, common in other states, a native beach 
strawberry, a creeping buttercup or ranunculus, and 
quite a host of plants are available and effective as 
soil covers either on flat surfaces or terrace banks. 



IN CALIFORNIA 33 

Weeds and Fertilizers 
Of all weeds that infest the lawn no other is so 
hard to control or eradicate as Bermuda grass, often 
given such uncomplimentary names as "devil grass," 
"witch grass," etc. After once becoming established 
it cannot be got rid of except through making a new 
lawn and very carefully removing every little piece 
of the grass, but there are easy methods of control. 

With a steel rake go over the lawn in late autumn 
and drag forth the offending grass. All that is torn 
up and not removed by raking may be cut off with a 
mower. When you have repeated this performance 
until it ceases to be a pleasure, sow some clover 
seed, water it well and retire until spring. The Ber- 
muda grass, being native to the tropics, will scarcely 
grow at all during winter, and it will be late in sum- 
mer before it is again noticeable, for its growth is 
prostrate and will be somewhat enfeebled through 
smothering under the rank, thick growth of clover. 
You may repeat this method of control each year if 
so desired, but once in three years will suffice to pre- 
serve a neat appearance and effectively control the 
Bermuda grass. 

Seeds of this grass are often introduced through 
use of manures from low-lying dairy districts, either 
by spading in when lawnmaking or in top dressing 
thereafter. Bermuda grass infests lowlands, espe- 
cially rich bottom lands along streams "where kine 
are wont to graze." It is therefore better to use only 
well-rotted manure or have it wetted thoroughly and 
turned over every day or two until weed seeds have 
been burned out or started into active growth. It 
may be best to depend upon commercial fertilizers, 
and every dealer handles one or more brands spe- 
cially prepared for lawn use. 

Annual weeds may be controlled by frequent 



34 THE GARDEN BEAUTIFUL 

mowing, and many will be killed thereby. The re- 
mainder can endure but to the end of summer when 
death naturally ensues. Dandelions are a most seri- 
ous pest in many lawns, and there seems to be no 
better means of eradication than cutting off each 
plant a couple of inches below the surface with an 
old table knife sharpened to a square on the end. 
Some control has been attained through spraying 
with iron sulphate or copper sprays, but this method 
is neither necessary nor feasible except on acreage. 

Chickweed, sorrel, and many other nearly pros- 
trate or lowly plants are at times serious pests and 
yield readily to no treatment except pulling by hand. 
Like moss they thrive best in somewhat shaded loca- 
tions and prefer soils more or less acid. A liberal 
application of air-slaked lime or wood ashes will 
often aid in ridding the lawn of these pests and also 
prove of benefit to grasses. 

To return to fertilization, do not perform this work 
in autumn, as grass grows but little in cold weather 
and calls for no food, and if the temperature is low 
none is available except through use of nitrate of 
soda. Nearly all plant food is washed away by winter 
rains, either off the land or down into the soil beyond 
reach of grass roots. March is early enough for such 
work in California ; the heavier "carrying-off " rains 
have then ceased, and the grass starts into active 
growth, thereby indicating the need of food which it 
could not use while lying dormant. 




THE AUSTRALIAN BLUE GUM 

Eucalyptus globulus 



CHAPTER III 

TREES AND SHRUBS 

The beautifying of home grounds is at all times 
an important consideration. Inquiries as to varieties 
to plant and methods of planting are received by the 
author every month in the year. Nearly all these 
questions are about trees and shrubs suitable for 
this climate and their proper disposition in the home 
grounds. 

Trees and shrubs are planted about the dwelling 
for shade, for shelter, to accentuate the beauty of 
the building, to hide defects impossible of removal 
or for general landscape effect. To secure these 
ends a map of the grounds should be made in ad- 
vance of planting and upon it should be marked the 
parts to be screened from view, the views it is de- 
sired to preserve or emphasize and the location of all 
drives, walks, buildings and permanent fixtures and 
accessories. The nature and needs of the soil should 
then be carefully determined, proper means taken to 
supply deficiencies, the species or varieties of trees 
needed studiously selected and ordered from some 
reliable nurseryman. 

Each species has in its native habitat become 
adapted to certain conditions of soil and climate, 
and these generally are definitely known to every 
professional plantsman and well posted nurseryman. 
Trees planted in soils and climate unsuitable cannot 
but fail to grow, however much care and ceremony 
be observed in the planting. Luckily Californians 
have an almost endless list from which to choose. 



36 



THE GARDEN BEAUTIFUL 



The almost universal tendency in planting trees in 
home grounds is to place them too closely about the 
house and to plant too thickly, shutting out views 
and light from the windows and cluttering up and 
appropriating the whole yard, to the destruction of 
landscape beauty. The better plan is to plant the 




DETERMINING HEIGHT OF TREE 

The height of a tree, a stack, or other object may, when not easily 
measured directly, he found as follows : — Set up a pole, as tall a one 
a.s procurable, truly vertical ; find by sighting the point on the ground 
where the line through the top of the object and of the pole cuts it. 
Then the height of the object is in the same proportion to the height of 
the pole as the distance from the object to the cutting point is to that 
from the pole. Using the letters on the diagram, the height AB is to 

CD, the height of the pole, as AE to CE. Thus AB = (CD X AB) -f- 

CE. The point A must be directly below B, and the line AE must be 
uniformly sloping ; it need not be horizontal. 



larger trees and shrubs along the borders of the 
place, low shrubs and herbaceous plants in the house 
border, leaving spaces between house and boundary 
border treeless. Plant in irregular masses rather 
than in straight lines or as single specimens. 

Care and experience are required to so plant trees 
that they will not only live but thrive. It will prove 
more satisfactory, and cheaper, to hire such work 
done by an experienced gardener. In planting or 
transplanting trees choose small rather than large 
specimens. Dig large holes a day or a few days in 



IN CALIFORNIA 37 

advance of planting. If for deciduous trees, unless 
the soil is well saturated with rainwater, fill the 
holes at once with water up to the brim. If for ev- 
ergreen trees put in all or nearly all the soil before 
filling with water. Then after the soil is settled dig 
out the small hole necessary for the balled or potted 
plant. Place the trees a little deeper in the soil than 
they were in pot or nursery and do not use water to 
firm the soil but water most thoroughly after plant- 
ing is done. Keep the soil close about the tree free 
from grass or weeds. Remember there is no best 
tree for all purposes; every street, lawn and lot 
should receive special study as to its requirements. 
The condition and nature of the soil, the size of lot or 
width of street, the kind of buildings and style of 
architecture, also the style of gardening are all im- 
portant considerations. Therefore, if your lot or 
your problem be of any considerable size, a plan 
should be made by a professional designer. 

Street Trees, Uniform Planting 

In nearly all cities and towns the streets are 
planted with several kinds and species of trees to 
each block, of every conceivable size, form, color and 
degree of desirability and fitness. Such planting 
appears as irrational as a large orchard composed 
of several sorts of fruit trees of varying sizes and 
requirements, all hopelessly mixed. One horticul- 
tural author says such planting reminds him of "nine 
monstrously different buttons down the front of a 
Prince Albert coat." Another says: "The planting 
of a jumble of sorts upon the same block is a most 
reprehensible practice." 

Little can be done toward uniform planting with- 
out zealous and well-directed cooperation. There 
must be unity and intelligence of plan. The work 



38 THE GARDEN BEAUTIFUL 

should be carried on by improvement associations 
formed to control either a street, precinct, ward or 
town. Better still would it be if the city or town 
controlled all street planting. First outline a plan 
on which people of diverse tastes and interests can 
either agree or effect a compromise. This will not 
be found impossible, for the majority of people de- 
sire that their neighborhood shall be attractive and 
will yield in order to obtain desirable results. We 
must sacrifice some things in order to get others of 
different tastes to cooperate with us. After a thor- 
ough discussion of the merits of the different trees 
desired, put the selection of one for each street to 
a vote and let the majority rule, not forgetting that 
this is a matter which more concerns the general 
public than the individual. Furthermore, it is not 
so essential to have some specific tree as it is that 
but one kind be planted to each block or street. 

Trees for Street and Garden 

The following lists are very general and include 
nearly all those suitable for street planting in Cali- 
fornia. Of course all are equally desirable for park 
or garden. A few of them thrive in all sections, 
many of them quite generally throughout the south 
end of the state and the San Francisco-Oakland dis- 
trict, and a few in restricted districts only. In 
planting a considerable number of species a thor- 
ough knowledge of trees and of local conditions and 
requirements Is necessary, especially in choosing a 
list for planting, if assurance is to be given of good 
permanent results. 

Assorted Evergreens 

Acacia cyanophylla, blue-leaved wattle; A. deal- 
bata, silver wattle; A. decurrens, green wattle; A. 



IN CALIFORNIA 39 

floribunda; A. longifolia; A. melanoxylon, black- 
wood; Albizzia lophanta, crested wattle; Caloden- 
dron capense, cape chestnut ; Casuarina stricta, beef- 
wood or she-oak; Ceratonia siliqua, carob or St. 
John's bread; Cinnamomum camphora, camphor 
tree; Eucalyptus amygdalina, Messmate gum; E. 
calophylla, white-flowering gum ; E. ficif olia, scarlet- 
flowering gum; E. leucoxylon, white iron-bark; E. 
platyphylla, broad-leaved gum; E. polyanthema, red 
box; E. punctata, hickory gum; E. robusta, swamp 
mahogany; E. rudis, desert gum; E. sideroxylon, 
red iron-bark; Ficus macrophylla, Moreton Bay fig; 
Grevillea robusta, silk oak; Jacaranda ovalifolia, 
blue trumpet-flower tree; Ligustrum ovalifoliUm, 
Japan privet; Nerium oleander, oleander; Pittos- 
porum rhombif olium, saw-leaved box ; P. undulatum, 
Victoria box; Quercus agrifolia, live oak; Q. suber, 
cork oak; Schinus molle, pepper tree; Sterculia di- 
versif olia, bottle tree. 

Conifers, or Cone Bearers 

Unless conifers may be planted in wide parkways 
or along broad highways where sufficient space is 
allowed for retention of the lower branches, their 
use for such positions is not advised but on the con- 
trary is condemned by all recognized authorities. 
While it is better that planting space should be 
broad enough to allow of natural pyramidal growth, 
if the space is less than this, the tips or leaders of 
branches may be nipped off when reaching a certain 
length from the trunk, resulting in a cone-shaped 
tree with its base still resting securely on the soil 
beneath. 

California is singularly blessed with a long list 
of native conifers, or cone-bearing trees, which are 
much in demand where the climate will allow of 



40 THE GARDEN BEAUTIFUL 

their successful outdoor culture, and many are grown 
as pot plants, either because of their extreme beauty 
or the fame or sentiment attached, as in the case 
of our big tree and redwood. 

The big tree, Sequoia gigantea, is hardy in many 
parts of the United States, Europe, England, etc., 
but the redwood will not stand much cold weather. 
Our Douglas spruce, Pseudotsuga Douglasi, is much 
in demand in all countries, and few of our people are 
aware that it is from this tree that we get the far- 
famed Oregon pine. This tree may be found in the 
lower mountains. Horticulturists have appreciated 
this tree to the extent of producing, by selection and 
other means, at least ten distinct forms which have 
been given varietal names. 

We have so many native genera in the cone bear- 
ers that all could hardly be covered in this list, but 
to show our wealth of available garden material we 
will take one genus, pinus, or the true pines. These 
must not be confounded with spruces, firs, cedars, 
cypresses, junipers and the great host of other na- 
tive conifers. The following fifteen California spe- 
cies have been advertised in nursery catalogues: 
Pinus Balfouriana, foxtail pine; P. contorta, scrub 
pine; P. Coulteri, pitch or big cone pine; P. flexiiis, 
limber pine; P. Jeffreyi, Jeffrey's pine; P. Lamber- 
tiana, sugar pine; P. monophylla, single-leaf pine; 
P. monticola, mountain white pine; P. Muricata, 
prickle cone pine; P. Parryana or quadrifolia, nut 
pine or pinon ; P. ponderosa, yellow pine ; P. radiata, 
Monterey pine; P. Sabiniana, digger pine; P. Tor- 
reyana, Soledad pine ; P. tuberculata, knob cone pine. 
Aside from these are many either of late introduc- 
tion to the nursery trade or of little value as horticul- 
tural subjects. 



IN CALIFORNIA 41 

CURIOUS CONIFERS 

The conifers contain both the largest and the 
smallest trees in the world, as well as those enduring 
the greatest extremes of heat and cold. Nearly all 
are evergreen but a few are deciduous, the most 
common of the latter class being the larches. 

Ginkgo biloba, the maidenhair tree from northern 
China, is a deciduous conifer whose botanical affin- 
ities seem to be with the conifers on one side and 
with the ferns on the other, though but little like 
either. The leaves are fan-shaped and notched just 
like a giant maidenhair fern, and unbranched veins 
extend in radiating lines to the edge of the leaf 
precisely as they do in the fern. The fruit is in no 
wise a cone as we know cones, but is a fleshy drupe 
not unlike the fruit of the yews, which by some 
botanists are removed from the conifers though 
closely related to the maidenhair tree. 

Another curious conifer is Agathis robusta, the 
dammar or kauri pine, native to Queensland and 
many islands in Australasia. If the ginkgo is to be 
called a fern tree by reason of its quaint foliage, 
the agathis should be called the lily tree for a like 
reason. The leaves of the kauri pine are, however, 
much handsomer than those of any lily and also 
much thicker and of more substantial texture. There 
is no other conifer and scarcely a tree of any kind 
that rivals this tree in beauty of foliage, and very 
few who view it are easily convinced of its botan- 
ical relationship. 

It is interesting to Californians to know that we 
have a conifer which is curious by reason of its 
isolation from its half dozen or more sister species. 
The incense cedar, Libocedrus decurrens, is the only 
representative of the genus in North America. 
Others are found in various parts of the world, thus, 



42 THE GARDEN BEAUTIFUL 

Chile to Patagonia, Island of Formosa, China, New 
Zealand and New Guinea, but generally in the south- 
ern hemisphere. Junipers are curious for the rea- 
son that they do not bear true cones, but berries; 
everybody has heard of juniper berries. Junipers 
also bear two kinds of leaves. 

THE ARAUCARIA GROUP 

The group of conifers known as araucarias are 
among the most ornate of the family, and a collec- 
tion of all the species would make one of the most 
interesting groves of trees that could be planted in 
a large park or extensive country home. 

We have six species, four from Australasia and 
two from South America. Owing to the dryness of 
our climate the latter two, A. imbricata, the mon- 
key puzzle, and A. Brasiliense, do not thrive in our 
state, though specimens are not uncommon. By 
far the most common species is the Norfolk Island 
pine, A. excelsa. This tree thrives best near the 
seacoast. A. Bidwillii will do well in the hot in- 
terior valleys. A. Cookii is the most rare of all and 
the writer knows of but two. A. Cunninghamii is 
somewhat more common, though it is doubtful if 
there are a score of this species in California. All 
are large and beautiful trees. 

THE ARBOR-VITAES 

The golden arbor-vitae, Thuya aurea, is a dwarf 
Chinese variety, very compact, globular in form, 
and with foliage tips of yellowish green. T. com- 
pacta is quite similar but is bright green in color 
and attains a height of five or six feet. 

The giant arbor-vitae, T. gigantea, is a native of 
California and is, as its name indicates, the largest 
of the family, often attaining a height of 150 feet. 



IN CALIFORNIA 43 

In the garden it is noted for its rapid, vigorous 
growth and sturdy form. On the Atlantic Coast 
there is a native species, T. occidentalis, that is 
known as the American arbor-vitae, or white cedar, 
furnishing the lumber known under the latter name, 
yet not a true cedar. It will grow to fifty feet in 
height and is widely planted in parks and large 
gardens. 

Thuya orientalis is the name of the Chinese arbor- 
vitae, a compact, bushy tree twenty to thirty feet 
high when mature, with bright green foliage which 
stands edgewise to the trunk. Another compact 
form not so common in California as the others 
listed, a later introduction, is known as T. tatarica, 
a very hardy species that grows rather slowly under 
great extremes of temperature and treatment until 
it finally reaches twenty feet in height. 

THE TRUE CEDARS 

There are but three species of cedars, though many 
trees are known as such. The one most commonly 
so-called, the red cedar of the Eastern states, is a 
juniper. 

The Mount Atlas cedar, Cedrus Atlantica, is the 
least known to us though not rare in California gar- 
dens. It is a rapid-growing tree of loosely formal, 
pyramidal outline and silveryj-green foliage, and 
though slow of growth when young eventually at- 
tains a height of 120 feet. 

The most popular cedar is C. deodara, variously 
known as deodar, Himalayan cedar, or incense cedar ; 
a most beautiful and stately tree of towering pyra- 
midal growth, peculiarly suited to all parts of Cali- 
fornia. Its foliage is bluish-green, silvery on the 
under side, at all times attractive. In the opinion of 
the author this is the most beautiful of all trees. 



44 THE GARDEN BEAUTIFUL 

C. Libani is the cedar of Lebanon mentioned in 
the bible and writings of travelers in the Far East, 
being native to the land known as the Cradle of 
the Human Race and for that reason alone in great 
demand for planting everywhere. It is darker in 
foliage than the Himalayan cedar and less hand- 
some. 

THE CYPRESSES 

The Arizona cypress, Cupressus Arizonica, is com- 
paratively a newcomer to California, native to the 
mountains of Arizona and New Mexico. It grows 
somewhat columnar in form but is a handsome tree 
of the type known as blue cypress. C. funebris is a 
smaller, rather slender tree of loose foliage with 
drooping tips and dark green in color. Gowen's 
cypress, C. Goveniana, is a native of California and 
will prove satisfactory wherever cypresses are 
needed. 

Cupressus Guadalupensis is a blue form of the 
better known Monterey cypress, native to Lower Cal- 
ifornia and the near-by island of Guadalupe. In 
color its foliage ranges from a grayish or bluish 
green to silvery blue, the latter being the most at- 
tractive foliage color found in the conifers. 

C. macrocarpa is the Monterey cypress common 
over all of California and extensively used for 
hedges, windbreaks and all purposes where a quick- 
growing, thick-foliaged evergreen is wanted, but it 
is rather a short-lived tree of somber appearance. 
The tall, very slender cypress to which we attach the 
name Italian is native to both Southern Europe and 
Asia and is the classical cypress of Greek and Roman 
writers. With us it is popular for making living 
arches, gateways and for formal gardens and near 
dwellings of severe architecture. 



IN CALIFORNIA 45 

THE PINE FAMILY 

No more handsome pine may be found in western 
gardens than Pinus Canariensis, named for its na- 
tive habitat the Canary Island pine. It has long 
needles or leaves of silvery-blue and an upright, 
stately growth that peculiarly fits it for highway 
planting. 

P. halepensis, the Aleppo pine, is better suited 
for planting over all of California than any species 
yet tried. It soon grows to large size, is of a clean 
and pleasing shade of light green and succeeds under 
a considerable range in temperature, soil and gen- 
eral condition. 

The Corsican pine, P. laricio, is a tree with stout, 
spreading branches and grows to a height of 150 
feet. In general outline at maturity it forms a 
stately pyramid of rugged beauty. P. maritima, the 
cluster pine, is a handsome tree bearing needles a 
foot long, curiously twisted in clusters of bright 
green. The parasol pine, P. pinea, differs from most 
pines in having a round head and in age makes a 
large tree with a wide-spreading top suggestive of 
a gigantic parasol. 

MIXED CONIFERS 

Agathis robusta, the dammar pine from northern 
Australia, is unique among cone-bearing trees in 
that it is the only one bearing broad leaves, similar 
to those of laurels in outline, thick and leathery in 
texture and truly handsome. 

Chamaecyparis Lawsoniana is the name of the 
tree known to Californians as Lawson cypress and 
to Oregonians as Port Orford cedar, being native to 
both states indicated. It is a grand tree, a forest 
giant of rapid growth and pyramidal form with 
bluish-green foliage, retaining its lower branches 



46 THE GARDEN BEAUTIFUL 

close to the ground. One of the best garden coni- 
fers. 

The Japanese cedar, Cryptomeria Japonica, is 
the dominant avenue tree in its native country and 
popular for planting in coastal California but it 
will not endure the heat of our interior valleys. It 
grows rapidly near the coast but is of loose habit. 

A horticultural variety of the Japanese cedar, a 
smaller but handsomer tree, is known as C. elegans 
and is not surpassed in fitness for California gar- 
dens in general by any small evergreen tree. It 
seldom grows to twenty feet. 

Juniperus Bermudiana is the only one of many 
species that grows well in California. It grows 
rapidly from the very first though its ultimate height 
is not more than forty feet. For a spreading ever- 
green of medium growth the Bermuda juniper ranks 
well in all of California. A dwarf species is J. 
Sabina, known as the Sabine juniper, and is a 
spreading shrub of value for planting in poor soils, 
rockeries, etc. There is also a prostrate variety 
that grows flat on the ground, a fine rough covering 
for terrace banks and places of similar needs. 

Two so-called cedars are general favorites, one, 
Libocedrus Chilensis, is known as the Chilean cedar 
and the other, L. decurrens, as the incense cedar. 
Both are large spreading trees of handsome appear- 
ance, but the incense cedar, native to California and 
Oregon is one of our most stately evergreens and 
one of the best for park or garden. 

One of the Japanese yews, Podocarpus macro- 
phylla, has foliage somewhat like the oleander, 
though narrower. It is a small, spreading tree of 
fine appearance and worthy of extensive garden 
use, somewhat of an oddity among coniferous trees. 

Taxus baccata is the English yew so extensively 



IN CALIFORNIA 47 

planted in its native country and often clipped into 
formal and fantastic shapes. With us it is but a 
large spreading shrub though with age it will come 
to arborescent growth. It bears a somber hue ex- 
cept when the wind upturns the branches and shows 
the silvery sheen on the under side of the foliage. 

The so-called Irish yew is a f astigiate or narrowly 
columnar form of the English yew and would scarce- 
ly be suspected of being closely related. In color it 
is a very dark green and the general appearance is 
that of a huge bundle of closely packed perpendicu- 
lar branches ; a favorite for formal gardens. 

Deciduous Trees 

In places where summer shade and winter sun- 
shine is desired, deciduous trees may be planted, 
but with the splendid roads we now have in all 
parts of California the old cry of "muddy roads 
during the rainy season" cannot longer be offered 
as a reason for planting deciduous trees along 
streets and highways in a state having almost per- 
petual sunshine and summer. 

On public or private playgrounds, picnic grounds, 
to provide shade for summer only over certain parts 
of the house or other buildings or over arbors, seats, 
resting-places or plant groups or collections, de- 
ciduous trees may not only be permissible, but ad- 
visable. In botanic gardens and for collections of 
deciduous plants in parks and large gardens they 
are necessary. But for mere ornament they have 
no place in the southern two-thirds of California. 

It may interest the reader to know that in Amer- 
ica we have but three families of deciduous native 
trees possessing opposite leaves, and all have repre- 
sentatives in California and will be found fairly 
close to streams. It is not necessary to find them 



48 THE GARDEN BEAUTIFUL 

in leaf to know them — look to see if leaf scars and 
buds are opposite, and if so the tree is either ash, 
maple or horse chestnut. If they are not opposite 
they as clearly belong to some other family or are 
native to some other country, or both. 

There is little doubt but Platanus orientalis, the 
oriental plane, is the one best deciduous tree for all 
purposes, but other good species for either street or 
garden planting are: Acer dasycarpum, soft or sil- 
ver maple; Acer platanoides, Norway maple; Acer 
negundo, box elder; Albizzia julibrissin, pink acacia; 
Broussonetia papyrifera, paper mulberry; Castanea 
vesca, Spanish chestnut; Celtis australis, European 
hackberry; Fraxinus Americana, white ash; Frax- 
inus lanceolata, green ash; Ginkgo biloba, maiden- 
hair tree ; Hicoria pecan, pecan ; Liriodendron tulip- 
ifera, tulip tree; Melia azerdarach umbraculiformis, 
Texas umbrella tree; Populus balsamifera candi- 
cans, balm of Gilead ; Populus Carolinensis, Carolina 
poplar; Quercus lobata, California white oak; 
Quercus palustris, pin oak; Quercus pedunculata, 
English oak; Quercus rubra, red oak; Sterculia 
platanif olia, parasol tree ; Ulmus Americana, Amer- 
ican white elm; Ulmus suberosa, cork-barked elm; 
Ulmus glabra vegata, Huntingdon elm. 

Palms and Associates 

Of the great number of plants available none are 
better suited to California gardens than palms, the 
kings and princes of the vegetable kingdom; none 
give us more of tropical grace and luxuriance. "Land 
of the palm and banana" has a most alluring sound 
that draws to us each winter tens of thousands from 
less favored states who love to bask in our winter 
sunshine and watch the gentle swaying to the breeze 
of our wonderful tropical vegetation. 



IN CALIFORNIA 49 

Luxuriant as is the average palm in our gardens, 
none of them find ideal conditions for proper de- 
velopment, so that all fall short of the beauty of 
the same species when seen under strictly tropical 
skies. All palms need an abundance of water and 
unless it is given them a wealth of growth should 
not be expected. During the winter months palms 
need but little water other than that from the sea- 
sonal rainfall, for they are at this time practically 
dormant. It is during the hottest weather that 
copious and frequent irrigations should be given, 
for under the stimulus of our extremes of heat 
coupled with a wealth of water the development of 
palms and their associates nearest approaches the 
ideal. 

Few plants lend such a delicate tropical grace to 
the house surroundings as bamboo, nor are such 
plantations at all out of place in more remote sit- 
uations. The richest and most tropical vegetation 
should always be nearest the dwelling, especially 
plants of dignified and formal growth like the palms, 
but as we wander through extensive grounds one 
occasionally is charmed by finding a tropical nook 
filled with rank, graceful, yet careless growth of 
bamboo, banana, and similar plants. 

Palms and dracenas suitable for both street and 
garden are: Trachycarpus excelsus, windmill palm; 
Washingtonia robusta, Mexican fan palm ; Washing- 
tonia filifera, California fan palm; Livistona aus- 
tralis, Australian fan palm; Erythea edulis, Guada- 
lupe palm ; Cordyline indivisa, dracena, or palm 
lily; Cordyline australis, dracena, or palm lily; 
Cocos plumosa, queen palm. 

Some of the best bamboos are: Arundinaria Fal- 
coneri, a most graceful kind, not much over fifteen 
feet high, with very thin stems and a mass of 



50 THE GARDEN BEAUTIFUL 

feathery foliage, admirably suited for lawns and 
for decoration. Grows in clumps and never sends 
out runners. 

Bambusa vulgaris is tall, arching and hardy 
everywhere. This beautiful, tall and quick-grow- 
ing bamboo is really invaluable for scenic, tropical 
effect. A magnificent group can be made by plac- 
ing the upright growing Dendrocalamus latifolia 
in the center, massing Bambusa vulgaris around it, 
and bordering with a dwarf species. 

Dendrocalamus latifolia is the most desirable 
and most impressive bamboo so far introduced. 
Stems are four to five inches thick; up to fifty feet 
in height, straight, and heavily clothed with broad, 
long leaves which keep their color better than those 
of any other giant bamboo. 

Phyllostachys viridi glaucescens, from Northern 
China, the true "fish-pole bamboo," is one of the 
hardiest, quickest-growing, most effective bamboos 
ever introduced to our state. It grows like a weed, 
and one shoot planted in spring will multiply to six 
or eight before fall. 

Ornamental Fruit Trees 

In many sections of California, owing to the mild- 
ness of winter, we are enabled to grow a score or 
more of tropical and semitropical fruit trees, nearly 
all of which are evergreens having a decided orna- 
mental as well as economic value. In the city or 
suburban garden of restricted area it is often pos- 
sible to use fruiting trees and shrubs of this nature 
as a feature of landscape ornamentation. 

The golden glow of our citrus fruits is the most 
welcome sight that greets the eye of our first-time 
visitor, and even the returning Californian gazes 
upon these familiar objects with a love akin to ven- 



IN CALIFORNIA 51 

eration. Every home owner should find a place for 
a few citrus trees. 

The avocado, Persea gratissima, is one of the 
most ornamental of all fruit trees, handsome in 
form and foliage and producing a most abundant 
crop of fruits of the highest food value. This tree 
is worthy of extensive planting throughout the 
warmer sections of the state, and of late years has 
become quite well known and its value recognized. 

During the past score of years the cherimoya or 
custard apple, Anona cherimolia and A. reticulata, 
has been planted quite extensively and fruits well 
in scores of localities varying in soil and climatic 
conditions. 

Carissa is a particularly showy shrub well worthy 
of a place in any garden for its ornamental value. 
It bears fair-sized fruits, very nice to eat, but very 
few Californians seem to grow them. 

The white sapota from Mexico, Casimiroa edulis, 
is a fine tree of good size that yields a most delicious 
fruit and has been sparingly planted for many years, 
and the same may be said of the mango, more tender 
still, claimed by those who have eaten it in India to 
be the finest of all tropical fruits. 

Among the many fruit-bearing trees and shrubs 
of ornamental value none have been more exten- 
sively planted in California or have proven them- 
selves better adapted to soil and climate than the 
eugenias. Unfortunately, we have not grown those 
of specific economic value, though these species are 
fully as ornate as those more common with us. 

The kai apple from Natal, Aberia caffra, and a 
still better species from Ceylon, A. Gardneri, may be 
grown either as small trees or as a large hedge, 
much as limes are usually planted. The first-named 
species has been fruited here for many years, and 



52 THE GARDEN BEAUTIFUL 

furnishes an acid fruit prized for jams and jellies. 
The tree is somewhat thorny and naturally grows 
in a neat, compact form. 

The zapote or sapodilla, Achras sapota, is a fine 
broad-leafed evergreen tree bearing a fruit not un- 
like a russet apple in appearance, but having flesh 
more like a pear in texture and flavor. 

Feijoa Sellowiana, the Paraguay guava, though 
closely allied to the guavas, is much preferred by all 
who have eaten it to any true guava. In size and 
shape it resembles a large plum from one to two 
inches in diameter and an inch greater in length. 

The strawberry guava, Psidium cattleianum, is a 
fine glossy-leaved shrub or small tree which pro- 
duces an abundance of luscious fruit about the size 
of a large strawberry, round and of a deep reddish- 
brown color. The fruit is highly prized for table use 
when fresh, and for jams and jellies has few equals. 

The loquat is highly esteemed for its agreeable 
acidulous, aromatic flavor and on account of its 
ripening in early spring. The tree is one of the most 
beautiful among fruit trees. 

Hardy Eucalypts 

Though many eucalypts for special uses are 
listed in these pages it may be well to again call 
attention to the unquestioned adaptability of these 
trees to any and all parts of California, for no other 
vegetation has wrought such a wonderful transfor- 
mation in our landscapes. 

As showing the extremes under which these trees 
will thrive, there are several species hardy in the 
southern parts of England and Ireland, even to some 
distance north of London. The hardiest of these is 
E. coriacea, a dwarf species from snow-covered 
mountain tops in Australia, but not useful to us ex- 



IN CALIFORNIA 53 

cept under similar conditions in forest reserves. 
The hardiest species that grows to the dignity of a 
tree is E. Gunnii, but its growth is too slow for pop- 
ular use. E. coccifera, cordata, urnigera, saligna, 
resinif era, and viminalis grow in Cornwall, England, 
but only one, viminalis, thrives well in the colder 
parts of California. 

Under the stress of great heat other species thrive 
equally as well as do those of the former list in lands 
of heavy frosts and snow. At Thermal, California, 
on our so-called Colorado Desert, twenty-five species 
were tried out, about one hundred plants of each 
being used for the test. Of these five species success- 
fully withstood the heat with a continuation of vig- 
orous annual growth. These were: E. leucoxylon, 
the Victoria iron bark ; E. polyanthema, the red box ; 
E. rostrata, the red gum; E. rudis, and E. viminalis, 
the manna gum. Of these five the last-named grew 
more rapidly and straighter than the others, and 
during the first year many attained a height of 
fifteen feet. For extremes of both heat and cold it 
is the best species of all, a truly wonderful tree in 
its climatic adaptation. 

Trees for Arid Regions 

There are many trees quite common, which will 
endure the heat of these sections, but not all will 
withstand the cold, and in the appended list care 
must be taken that frosts are not too severe for some 
of those named. 

Among the best trees are : Beef -wood or she-oak, 
casuarina; pepper, Schinus molle; Texas umbrella, 
melia; black locust, Robinia pseudacacia; honey lo- 
cust, Gleditschia triacanthos; several willows; box 
elder, Acer negundo; cottonwoods, several species; 
at least five eucalypts — rostrata, rudis, tereticornis, 



54 THE GARDEN BEAUTIFUL 

polyanthema, and viminalis; palo verde and mes- 
quite, both from the desert; the Chinese tree of 
heaven, Ailanthus glandulosa; ash, several species; 
Kentucky coffee tree, Gymnocladus Canadensis; 
Russian mulberry, Morus alba tatarica; osage 
orange, Toxylon pomiferum; poplars, both Lom- 
bardy and Carolina ; purple plum, Prunus cerasif era 
atropurpurea ; soft maple, Acer saccharinum; syca- 
more, either of the western species of platanus; 
black walnut, any species; arbor-vitae, Thuya occi- 
dentalis ; spindle tree, Evonymus Japonicus ; Indian 
cedar, Cedrus deodara; Japanese cedars, species of 
chamaecyparis ; red cedar, Juniperus Virginiana; 
our native fan palm, Washingtonia filif era ; and the 
dates, Phoenix dactylifera, P. Canariensis and P. 
reclinata. 

In shrubs use tamarisk, myoporums, Althaea offi- 
cinalis, poinsettia, Euphorbia pulcherrima; bottle 
brushes, melaleucas, callistemons, etc., pomegranate, 
and privet, Ligustrum Japonicum. For dry places 
try native pines in the order named (for drouth 
resistant qualities) : P. tuberculata the knob-cone 
pine, P. Sabiniana, the digger or bull pine, and P. 
monticola, the mountain white pine. Other good 
natives are P. ponderosa, the yellow pine, P. Torrey- 
ana, the Soledad Pine, P. Parryana or quadrifolia, 
the nut pine, P. Lambertiana, the sugar pine, P. 
Coulteri, the big cone pine, and P. monophylla, the 
single-leaved pine. 

Trees for Alkaline Soils 
Nearly all the eucalypts and the single-leaved 
acacias are very tolerant of alkali. Especially are 
the following excellent: Acacias; armata, shrub, 
cyanophylla, longifolia, pycnantha, saligna. Euca- 
lypts: amygdalina, cornuta, rostrata and robusta, 
are well suited to all saline soils. 



IN CALIFORNIA 



55 



In conifers we have the following pines : balsamea, 
halepensis, laricio, maritima, radiata; also red 
cedar, Juniperus Virginica; Monterey cypress, 
Cupressus macrocarpa ; all melaleucas ; M. leucaden- 

dron is per- 
il a p s the 
most toler- 
ant of alka- 
line or sa- 
line soils of 
any tree; 
St. John's 
bread, Cera- 
tonia sili- 
qua ; and the 
common 
date palm, 
Phoenix dac- 
tylifera. 

In decidu- 
dus trees you 
may plant 
all willows 
and poplars ; 
the swamp 
locust, Gle- 
ditschia monosperma; a swamp-loving ash, Alnus 
glutinosus; the European sycamore maple, Acer 
pseudo-platanus ; and the Chinese tree of heaven, 
Ailanthus glandulosa. In shrubs use: Melaleucas, 
metrosideros, callistemons, tamarisk, plumbago, lep- 
tospermum, myoporum, genistas or cytisus, and 
willows. 

Shrubby Harbingers of Spring 
Among the many excellent deciduous shrubs suit- 





PROPER PRUNING 



56 



THE GARDEN BEAUTIFUL 



able to California, none is lovelier than the common 
bridal wreath, Spirea Cantonensis, also known by 
the trade name of S. Reevesiana. For the large gar- 
den a few scarlet-flowering quinces, grown in a mass 
or thicket, are almost indispensable. In favorable 
locations lilacs and snowballs are in order, but not 
everywhere do they thrive, and the same is true of 
the syringa or mock orange, philadelphus. Crataea- 
gus, berberis, cotoneaster, weigelia, deutzia, snow- 
berry, sweet shrub, dogwood, althea and a host of 
others might be listed that will thrive here. 

As a rule all 
deciduous shrubs 
(also trees) grow 
much more lux- 
uriantly in the 
country than city. 
Owners of coun- 
try homes will 
find northern 
slopes very fav- 
o r a b 1 e to the 
growth of nearly 
all deciduous 
shrubs and some, 
as the hardy hy- 
drangea, H. pani- 
c u 1 a t a grandi- 
flora, are quickly 
burned up by our dry, continuous spring heat. The 
Japanese snowball is another subject for cooler 
slopes, and is seldom happy in the city garden. The 
proper time to prune deciduous shrubs is immedi- 
ately after flowering, giving them a chance to make 
growth of flowering wood for another season. 




THE RIGHT AND THE WRONG WAY 

The bolt above shows proper treatment for 
a splitting fork. The lower part shows 
what will happen if a band is used. 




Kiiiiiiiil'i 



I 



^^^^^^^i*^^' 




THE SOUTH AMERICAN ORANGE TRUMPET FLOWER 
Bignonia venusta 



CHAPTER IV 

CLIMBERS AND TRAILERS 

In nature the mission of the vine is to cover 
for obscurity or for protection or shelter and in the 
garden it is often put to similar uses. But the vine 
has other and nobler uses. Its delicate tracery upon 
classic or other pretentious architecture is a thing of 
extreme beauty and should be kept with this end in 
view, under complete control. It is sometimes per- 
missible to hide, or at least to soften, the more harsh 
and monotonous lines of architecture by the judicious 
use of delicate vines, not of the kinds, however, used 
to obscure unsightly objects or cover arbors. Not all 
vines were intended for the same mission in life, and 
man should choose, with judgment born of experi- 
ence and based on observation, where each should go 

or what vines to use for specific purposes. 

Whenever that stage is reached where vines look 
heavy and cumbersome they should be thinned out; 
the necessity of this in connection with the desira- 
bility of light, graceful effects, goes far to prove the 
claim that climbing roses are unfitted for house deco- 
ration. It is far better to grow them on fences, over 
arbors, pergolas, or outbuildings of little importance 
to the landscape. One most important point is that 
the house must be first considered. It is the one im- 
portant object, not the vine or vines; they should 
decorate the house with a fitting drapery and not 
make a vinery with patches of building peeping out. 
The lines of architecture should be softened but not 
obscured. 



58 THE GARDEN BEAUTIFUL 

Evergreen Climbers 

Akebia lobata and A. quinata are climbing bar- 
berries bearing short racemes of small brownish pur- 
ple flowers, natives to China and Japan. 

Asparagus plumosus is a very popular climber for 
shady places, and for a low-growing vine or a hanger 
for vases or window boxes A. decumbens or A. de- 
flexus are very good. These are natives of Africa. 

Beaumontia grandiflora, a tropical climber, suited 
only to frostless localities, has very large white, bell- 
shaped flowers that are of such size that they have 
been likened to lilies. 

The bignonias are very close to the tecomas and 
all are known as trumpet flowers. B. venusta, the 
one with orange-yellow flowers, is one of the most 
gorgeous flowering vines known to California. B. 
Tweediana has large yellow flowers and easily clings 
to walls. B. violacea has violet flowers, and B. 
Cherere has blossoms of blood-red. 

The bougainvilleas, though having insignificant 
yellow flowers, bear floral bracts of most brilliant 
hue. All save one species have bracts of magenta or 
a closely allied shade. The variety known as B. 
lateritia has brick-red floral bracts, and while the 
showiest of all is also the most tender. 

Cissus discolor and C. rhombifolia are for the 
house and warm locations only, such as window 
boxes, hanging baskets, etc. Foliage resembles be- 
gonia leaves. 

Clianthus puniceus is an Australian vine, bearing 
showy red flowers that have given it the popular 
name of parrot's bill. C. Dampieri is a beautiful 
trailer, hard to grow, from the desert regions of New 
Zealand and is called New Zealand glory pea. 

Cobea scandens and its white variety hail from 



IN CALIFORNIA 59 

Mexico and have flowers closely resembling the com- 
mon Canterbury bells. The type has purple flowers. 
A "rough" climber. 

Dioclea glycinoides has flowers much like the clian- 
thus but smaller and of darker red ; really a crimson. 
It does not grow so large nor so rapidly as the par- 
rot's bill. 

Dolichos lignosus, the Australian pea, also its 
white variety, is a small-leaved, quick-growing vine 
that makes a fine close cover where frosts are not 
too heavy. The former bears pink and white 
flowers. 

Evonymus radicans is a climbing or trailing shrub 
with very small leaves and will cling by aerial root- 
lets to walls of brick, stone, or concrete. There is 
also a variety with variegated foliage. 

Ficus pumila, better known as F. repens, is the 
most popular of all evergreen vines for covering 
walls as it will attach itself to anything that is slight- 
ly roughter than a pane of glass. It bears no visible 
flowers as it is a climbing fig. 

Hardenbergias, sometimes known as Kennedyas, 
have pea-shaped blossoms of white, pink, or purple. 
The plants being very much alike in general appear- 
ance, one chooses the color wished for in the flower 
and orders the species bearing it. 

Hedera helix and its many varieties are known as 
English ivy, Irish ivy, etc., being the only true ivies. 
They cling tenaciously to any wall and grow well in 
sun or shade; perhaps the most popular of all vines 
for shady places. 

The wax plant, Hoya carnosa, is a handsome 
climber which does best in shady places, or it may 
be used as a trellised pot plant for porch or house. 



60 THE GARDEN BEAUTIFUL 

The flowers come in numerous umbels of delicate 
pink and are wax-like in texture. 

Loniceras are the honeysuckles, of which we have 
several species and varieties. All are fairly hardy, 
will thrive in any soil or position and produce a fra- 
grance when in bloom that makes their presence 
known at a very considerable distance. They are 
splendid all-purpose vines. 

Muehlenbeckia complexa, the wire vine, is a native 
of New Zealand, where it climbs over and obtains a 
foothold in the rocks where no soil is in evidence, 
right on the bare sea-wall and within the spray of 
salt water. It will therefore thrive on the misty 
beach or in the driest situations. 

Jasmines are common in all parts of California 
and we grow at least a half dozen hardy species hav- 
ing mostly white flowers, though Jasminum primu- 
linum, having primrose-yellow flowers, is the jewel 
of the lot, and J. humile, known as J. revolutum, is 
a half-shrubby species also having yellow flowers. 
There are no poor species of jasmines. 

Passion vines are not so popular as they were a 
score of years ago for they are usually attacked by 
hordes of caterpillars which quickly and completely 
defoliate them. They have white, blue, or purple 
flowers ; and one, the best of the lot, Passiflora prin- 
ceps, has half -closed, drooping bells of dull red. 

We usually grow but one phaseolus as an orna- 
mental, P. caracalla, the snail vine, bearing curious, 
large, snail-like flowers of purple and yellow. 

Pithecoctenium muricatum has a name all out of 
proportion to its small white and yellow trumpet 
flowers. It is, however, a free bloomer and is closely 
allied to the bignonias. 

Everyone knows the lovely blue of Plumbago 



IN CALIFORNIA 61 

capensis, one of the most drouth-resistant of all 
vines or shrubs. The less water it has the more will 
it bloom. There is also a white variety. 

Solandra guttata, the copa de oro, has the largest 
flowers of any climbing shrub, but alas, it will grow 
only in situations well protected from frosts. Its 
giant cups of old-gold are several inches across the 
mouth and strikingly handsome, while their great 
size attracts the attention of every beholder. 

In the solanums we have several species bearing 
white or blue flowers and ranging in size from those 
of the small S. jasminoides (potato vine) up to the 
azure-blue giants of Solanum Wendlandi. 

Sollya heterophylla, the Australian blue bell, is 
as much of a shrub as a climber, but it has the 
bluest of flowers and though they are small they 
never fail to attract attention. 

A lovely, somewhat tender plant is Stigmaphyllon 
ciliatum, the orchid vine, with golden yellow flowers 
in pendulous bunches or corymbs, each flower an 
inch across and delicately fringed. 

The tacsonias are closely allied to the passion 
vines but differ most distinctly in the color of the 
flowers, those of passion vines being white, blue, 
or purple, while the tacsonias bear pink, scarlet, or 
red blossoms. 

In the trumpet flowers, so-called, which comprise 
the bignonias and tecomas, we have many colors, 
and some of the tecomas are deciduous. The flowers 
are pink, orange-red, and red. See also bignonias 
and list of deciduous vines for there is much confu- 
sion of names. 

There is a vine that by reason of its provocatively 
long name should be ruled out of popular lists except 
that it is a beautiful climbing plant belonging to the 



62 THE GARDEN BEAUTIFUL 

popular jasmine family. It is called the star jasmine 
and has creamy- white star-shaped blossoms, borne in 
great profusion. Its botanical name is Trachelos- 
permum jasminoides, but the dealers usually call it 
rhyncospermum, which is no easier for the average 
layman's tongue. 

Of late years two or three species, or varieties of 
one species, of evergreen grape from South Africa, 
have been added to the list of desirable climbers. At 
first we had but one form, under the name of Vitis 
capensis, but later others have appeared, quite simi- 
lar in general appearance, and all good. They are 
listed as : V. Baudiana, V. hyper-glauca, V. rhombi- 
f olia, and V. rupestris. 

Deciduous Climbers 

Ampelopsis quinquefolia is known as Virginia 
creeper or woodbine, while A. tricuspidata, 
Veitchi, is called Japan ivy, and occasionally Bos- 
ton ivy, though why the latter name we cannot tell 
for it is native to Japan and China and came to this 
country from England. 

Antigonon leptopus, the rosa de montana, or 
mountain rose, is a quick-growing vine that during 
summer bears a mass of pink flowers that one 
grower of it likens to "small pink hops." 

Aristolochia in several species, one of which is 
called Dutchman's pipe, are climbers with curious 
rather than beautiful blossoms. 

Asparagus medioloides is the smilax of florists, a 
bulbous plant with a beautiful vine growth produced 
annually. A splendid plant for shaded positions. 

Clematis are so well known as scarcely to need 
mention. The small-flowering sorts make dense 
vines, while the large-flowered section run all to 



IN CALIFORNIA 63 

blossoms, some of the latter being as much as ten 
inches in diameter. In color they range from white 
to deepest purple, with every possible intervening 
shade. 

Decumaria is a little known climber, clinging by 
aerial rootlets, hardy, fragrant in blossom and 
known as the climbing snowball. 

Humulus, the hop vine, is a splendid plant for 
quick summer covering and provides a dense shade. 
Although normally green there is a handsome varie- 
gated variety. Both send forth each spring from 
perennial roots. 

Mandevilla is known as the Chilean jasmine for 
the reason that the flowers are quite similar to those 
of the jasmines, but are larger and more fragrant. 

Pueraria Thunbergiana is the Japanese kuzu vine 
(erroneously spelled kudzu), remarkable for the 
vigor of its growth, often attaining 50 or more feet 
in length each season and bearing immense leaves. 

Tecoma radicans and its varieties are hardy de- 
ciduous trumpet vines, native to the eastern part of 
the United States and popular everywhere. 

All are familiar with the Chinese wistaria 
(named for Dr. Wistar, an American) , which is pop- 
ular the world over. It may be had with white, lilac, 
or purple flowers, and one variety has double flowers. 

Heat-resistant vines are: Virginia creeper, Am- 
pelopsis quinquef olia ; Boston or Japan ivy, A. tri- 
cuspidata; and the Japanese honeysuckle, Lonicera 
Japonica. The plumbago may be used for either 
climber or shrub according to the way it is trained. 

Productive Summer Arbors 

There are many gardens where vines of pumpkins, 
squashes, gourds, etc., have been used to good effect 
for summer arbors. In one yard, without a tree, 



64 THE GARDEN BEAUTIFUL 

there was a space of six feet between a fence three 
feet high and the house. A few light battens were 
run from top of fence to bottom of windows on the 
house at a height of about six or seven feet. On 
these battens was fastened two-inch mesh chicken 
wire and squash vines allowed to clamber over all 
in early spring. All summer this arbor proved a 
cool, shady and wholesome retreat for children from 
all over that neighborhood. A load of river sand 
on the ground beneath keeps it a popular resort 
throughout the year. 

Misuse of Vines 

Many of our home owners have the "vine habit" 
in chronic form; everything possible is weighted 
down with an excess of overgrown and often inap- 
propriate climbers. When they are used to cover 
bare, unsightly walls and ugly buildings a justifica- 
tion exists for allowing them to grow rampant and 
riotous, but where used for ornament alone they 
must be kept in check. Their delicate tracery upon 
buildings is decidedly one of greatest beauty, but 
they should never be allowed to grow so as to ob- 
scure good architecture. 

There are buildings so inexpressibly ugly that 
anything that would cover would be pardonable, but 
such examples are rare, and generally he who has 
such poor staste in building lacks sufficient love 
for plant life to use vines at all. The greatest 
abuse of vines really comes from those who 
have more or less love for them, coupled with a 
faulty judgment regarding the standard of beauty 
as exemplified in plant life. Nearly all vines get 
bare and ugly below with years of growth and nearly 
all need to be replaced every few years. 




THREE CALIFORNIA ROCK GARDENS 

1. Red Sandstone. 2. Gray Granite. 3. Boulders. 



CHAPTER V 
ROCKERIES AND FERNERIES 

Who that has wandered up canyons and over hills 
doubts for a moment that we may have beautiful 
rock gardens. Those time-toned rocks covered with 
moss and lichens provide in themselves a foundation 
of unusual beauty and interest and the plants which 
may be used for further embellishment are so num- 
erous as to defeat a desire 'to list them in a brief 
treatise for the amateur. Sunny rock gardens may 
very fittingly be combined with cactus or desert gar- 
dens and prove as great an attraction and evoke as 
much interest as any feature in the home grounds. 

Every possessor of a garden, however limited in 
area, can spare a shaded corner for a collection of 
ferns and their allies. With the natives may be 
mixed some of the hardy sorts on sale at nurseries, 
for as a state California leads the nation on ferns, 
Florida being a close second. Their chief require- 
ment is shade, more particularly from the afternoon 
sun, so that the east or north side of the house is best. 
In this state where they have to be watered artifi- 
cially they may be planted under trees, though they 
must be kept well watered or the tree will draw 
all the moisture away from them. Our native kinds 
range from the little "golden-backs" only two inches 
high, up to the woodwardia of deep canyons which 
often exceed six feet in height. All are easy to grow. 

Building the Rockery 
Lay out the shape of your rockery on the ground 
and use your largest stones first. Don't have the de- 



66 THE GARDEN BEAUTIFUL 

sign round, square, triangular, or any particular 
shape, but as irregular as possible, just as though 
it happened to be where you wanted it. Let the stones 
touch each other and put your plants just back of 
the place where two stones meet. 

Now fill up the inside or core with soil until it is 
level with the top of the rockwork, and do this with 
each tier of stones as you build up. In placing the 
second and subsequent tiers, draw each one in slight- 
ly, yet not too evenly, neither too fast, or your rock- 
ery will be finished too soon and also be too flat and 
smooth. Be careful that the shape is not too regular 
as you go up, but have it full of little canyons and 
mesas with the top as irregular as possible. Also 
allow some of the roughest and most picturesque 
rocks to stand out boldly above the rest. 

Be sure to keep the soil well watered all the time 
you are at the job, for it is a very difficult matter 
to get it wet all through when finished in case it be- 
comes dry during construction. Soil for such work 
should be of a light and porous nature, very friable, 
yet without much sand, as sand washes away too 
easily. Better have plenty of leaf mold if obtainable, 
for it contains plant food agreeable to all vegetable 
life. If you have a large place and can get plenty of 
rocks the effect will be greatly improved by the free 
use of dwarf or prostrate-growing shrubs. 

Where to Build 

A rockery properly located and tastefully arranged 
is capable of affording much interest and pleasure 
to those who can appreciate the beauties of nature. 
The simplest form of rockwork may be described as 
an irregular mound of soil covered with stones, and 
a secluded spot or corner of the pleasure grounds, 
shaded by trees, but not necessarily directly under 



IN CALIFORNIA 67 

them, is the position for a rockwork of the kind in 
question. Here, concealed from all points by an in- 
cisure of shrubbery, or by an evergreen hedge, and 
approached by a rustic pathway through a leafy 
thicket, the rockery may be located without any vio- 
lation of good taste or interference with other 
and more ambitious features of a large and varied 
garden. 

Border rockeries to fill up large or unsightly angles 
of the residence or other buildings are somewhat 
rare, owing largely to the fact that a majority of all 
California houses are built of wood. Even in such 
cases we may cheaply and safely provide against de- 
cay and dampness. Build a background of rough 
redwood, place narrow strips, for "furring" between 
it and the house sides, and the clear and clean air- 
space will keep the house dry and the paint un- 
spoiled. Such provision was made in the case of 
some of the border rockeries shown in our chapter 
frontispiece, all of which were built by the author's 
hands. 

Wild Gardens 

If the author had a large suburban garden he 
would have a natural or wild rock garden that would 
be just a riot of rocks and dry garden plants that 
would not be figuratively calling for water and care 
during our hot summer. Rocks should be large, 
small, on hills, banks, and flat ground, in holes, cor- 
ners, nooks — everywhere — no orderliness or design 
but just careless disposition — no strained effects but 
as near as possible to what nature would do with 
them. One should get all the rocks he can use 
and still have soil enough to give the scene a good 
touch of plant life. 

For plants use any that will grow. Vile weeds 



68 THE GARDEN BEAUTIFUL 

should be rooted out, but wild tobacco, bush lotus, 
humming-bird flower, the tiny flat milkweed, or 
euphorbia, or any natives bearing well the summer 
drouth should be encouraged. Visits to the neigh- 
boring hills, mountains and canyons would disclose 
a wealth of plants for rocky situations in both shade 
and sun where little soil or water is available. Plants 
for rockeries may be of any and all kinds, for in a 
large rockery may be found every situation pre- 
sented in a garden. Ferns and shade plants should 
go on the north or shaded sides, angles, or nooks, 
while sedums and stone-crops, with cacti and other 
heat-loving succulents, may occupy the sunnier ex- 
posures. 

Cactus Gardens 

One of the chief charms of a cactus garden is the 
great number of similar plants which not only thrive 
under like treatment, but are often so near the cacti 
in appearance as to be mistaken for them when not 
in bloom. A full collection of succulents, as this class 
of plants is called, affords a richer and more inter- 
esting field for study than any other branch or phase 
of plant life. They are splendid subjects for ele- 
vated rockeries, for drainage should be of the best 
in order to maintain cacti in good health. 

No family of plants recommends itself to the ama- 
teur gardener more highly than the cactus group. At 
no time do cacti need more than ordinary care, and 
after once established they may almost as well be 
left alone except for an occasional weeding. Most 
of them have to endure in their native habitat great 
extremes of heat, and in some places on our Amer- 
ican deserts the snowfall is considerable, so that the 
question of climate need not perplex the prospective 
grower. In all cases the soil should be well drained, 



IN CALIFORNIA 69 

yet some of our California species grow in heavy 
adobe. 

The cactus family is one of the largest and most 
varied of any in the vegetable kingdom and has 
in combination more grotesque and curious forms 
with beautiful flowers than any other group of culti- 
vated plants. In size they vary from little gems 
less than an inch in height and diameter to giants 
of sixty feet, three feet through the trunk, with so 
many curious forms as to completely baffle descrip- 
tion. In size the flowers have no such range, but 
several are more than a foot long and, when in full 
bloom, of the same diameter across the mouth. No 
family of plants can surpass the exquisite shades 
of color to be found in cacti, ranging from white to 
crimson, all with a beautiful satiny finish. 

Wall Gardens 

This phase of gardening is a success in any cli- 
mate, but is especially easy of finished luxuriance 
in a humid atmosphere. Near the coast should prove 
ideal, and a rough rock wall fronting the ocean 
would serve splendidly to protect the garden, and 
the stones could be covered on both sides. Muehlen- 
beckia complexa, the wire vine from New Zealand, 
could be grown on the ocean side, right next to the 
wave-washed sands, and in a short while would so 
cover and bind the rocks together as to make a 
permanent protection. On the seawall in its native 
country this vine flourishes right in the ocean spray. 

It would be preferable to have this wall widest at 
bottom and batter or slope from each side to a nar- 
rower top. If a core of good soil could be provided 
and flat or broken rocks "rip-rapped" up the sides 
success would be assured. On the inside of the wall 
could be planted, with assurance of vigorous growth, 



70 THE GARDEN BEAUTIFUL 

many sorts of plants needing but little water. Care 
should be taken in watering until the plants are 
firmly established or the soil will be washed away. 
A light but very frequent spraying should be the 
program. While building, the soil should be kept 
rather wet and packed, and after each watering look 
over the wall and fill all chinks and cracks where 
soil has washed away or settled from surface. The 
common cobbles or boulders are the very poorest of 
all material for such work. Quarried or slab stone 
is best, and if it is soft and porous so it will hold 
water and grow mossy, the effect will be much more 
pleasing than with hard, impervious rock. This 
class of work would add a pleasing variety to many 
gardens. 

A Fine Wall Plant 

Growers of cacti and other succulents suitable for 
rock gardens admire one of the large stone crops 
(Sedum spectabile) which is handsome in foliage 
and produces large trusses of fine pink flowers 
throughout a very considerable portion of the year. 
For the driest situations and poorest soils it has 
much to commend it, for under circumstances and 
conditions necessarily fatal to most plants it thrives 
marvelously. Given heavy, rich soil with plenty of 
water, it runs all to vegetative growth, produces no 
flowers and often rots away in the roots. Even then 
the tops readily root and soon blossom if left lying 
on dry soil. 




THE AMERICAN CONE-FLOWER, GOLDEN GLOW 
Rudbeckia laciniata flore-plena 



CHAPTER VI 

ANNUALS AND PERENNIALS 

Let us grow flowers everywhere, for aside from 
our own pleasure they may perchance brighten the 
life and awaken a love of flowers in many now wholly 
or partially indifferent to their existence. How in- 
consistent to heap flowers upon the casket of one 
who in life cared no more for them than did the dog 
who followed at his heels, if we make no effort to in- 
terest and attract those now living. Eyes that see 
not, figuratively, may often be made to see literally 
the beauties of nature. We owe it to our kind of 
every race to clothe the earth with beauty so far as 
it lies within our power. There are few so unfor- 
tunately situated that they may not gladden the sight 
of all by making one or more flowers blossom where 
none grew or blossomed before. 

Succession of Bloom 

In arranging your garden try to so plant that you 
will have a succession of bloom throughout the year. 
It is comparatively easy to accomplish this with the 
long lists of annuals and perennials at hand, but it 
may be done with annuals alone, especially if care 
is taken to cut back some of those that grew straggly 
and top-heavy after the first flush of blossoming. 

When planting annuals select some that are cap- 
able of rejuvenation in midsummer, otherwise there 
will be few flowers in late summer just before the 
autumn crop is available. This neglect is a mistake 
common with gardeners, so that about August and 



72 THE GARDEN BEAUTIFUL 

September the places under their charge become 
ragged, colorless and unsightly. Annuals common 
everywhere that may be cut back and rejuvenated 
in midsummer are: Achillea, alyssum, calliopsis, 
marigold, pinks, nasturtium and Phlox Drummondi. 
After cutting back give them a light feed of bone- 
meal, keep free from weeds and stir the soil lightly 
wherever it is possible. There are many other an- 
nuals which may be cut back and a fresh crop of 
flowers brought out. 

Native California Annuals 

No wild flowers in the world are superior to those 
native to California, and to visitors from other states 
and other countries they prove most attractive and 
interesting. The following list is especially recom- 
mended as one of native annuals that are low in 
price, requiring no care after planting except weed- 
ing, and successive crops of seeds may easily be har- 
vested from them by any intelligent child, thus plac- 
ing them within reach of all classes for all time. The 
first five are especially recommended for parkway or 
garden, and all are desirable for either purpose. 
None requiring special care, position or exposure 
have been included, but all are the hardiest of the 
hardy. 

Eschscholtzia Calif ornica, California poppy; too 
well known to need description. In reality a peren- 
nial, but usually treated as an annual. 

Lupinus nanus, the dwarf blue lupine. An annual 
ten to fifteen inches high; a very showy plant, 
branching from the base; stems and leaves hairy. 
Flowers in small racemes, rich blue and white, fra- 
grant. Very effective for sowing in masses. 

Layia elegans, tidy tips. Annual, one to two feet 
high. A yellow daisy edged with white or cream 



IN CALIFORNIA 73 

color. Leaves narrow with gracefully-toothed mar- 
gins. One of our most common and most popular 
wild flowers. 

Any one or all three of the following species of 
gilia: Gilia achillaefolia, blue gilia, annual one 
to one and a half feet high, with small lavender-blue 
flowers in dense heads on graceful slender stems, and 
light feathery leaves. Gilia capitata, another blue 
gilia; also annual, one and a half to two and a half 
feet high, a slender-growing, somewhat branched 
plant, with finely-cut foliage and compact heads of 
light blue flowers. Gilia tri-color, bird's eyes. An 
annual nine inches to one foot high; flowers pale 
lilac, yellow toward the center, with five purple spots, 
a charming combination of colors. 

Mentzelia Lindleyi, blazing star. Annual, two to 
three feet high, yellowish stems; deeply-toothed 
green leaves. Flowers large, of delicate silken tex- 
ture, color a rich golden yellow. One of the most 
brilliant of all native flowers, especially valuable for 
sowing in dry, sandy or rocky places, continuing in 
flower until midsummer. 

Other desirable sorts are: Lupinus affinis, blue 
lupine, one to two feet high ; Clarkia elegans, purple, 
two to three feet high; Coreopsis Stillmani, or C. 
Douglasi, both yellow, six to twelve inches ; Godetia 
amoena, bottae, or grandiflora, all pink or pink with 
crimson spots, one to two feet high; Collinsia bi- 
color, white, lilac, and purple, one to two feet high ; 
Linanthus densiflorus, rose pink or lilac, one to two 
feet high ; Nemophila insignis and N. maculata, blue, 
four to eight inches ; Phacelia Whitlavia, purple, one 
foot high; Salvia carduacea, light blue, one to two 
feet high. 



74 THE GARDEN BEAUTIFUL 

Exotic and Hybrid Annuals 

In annuals not native to California, I would rec- 
ommend the following list, also beginning with the 
five best in the order given. 

Calendula, Prince of Orange. Annual, one foot 
high. Flowers large and double and of rich orange 
color. The best of the so-called marigolds. 

Linum rubrum, the scarlet flax. One to two feet 
high, of a most brilliant scarlet; seed self-sowing 
very freely. 

Mixed annual larkspurs, one to two feet high, in 
blue and white. 

Poppies, especially the Shirley. A splendid effect 
may be gained by sowing with them either oats or 
canary grass. Colors range from white to crimson 
with black blotches. 

Mixed candytuft in white, pinks, lilac and car- 
mine, one foot high. 

Other good sorts are : Sweet alyssum, white, six 
to ten inches ; Calliopsis, mixed, one to two feet high, 
yellow and brown; centaurea, the corn flower, one 
to two feet high, white, lilac, and shades of blue; 
cosmos, mixed, sown in October or early in Novem- 
ber will grow but one to three feet, in white, pink 
and red; French marigold, for summer flowering, 
one to two feet, yellows, browns and reds; nastur- 
tiums, great range of colors ; Phlox Drummondi ; one 
foot high, white, pinks, yellows, scarlet and crim- 
son ; portulaca, all colors, for summer flowering ; zin- 
nias, all colors, for summer flowering. 

The True Poppies 

Owing to the great range and brilliancy of their 
colors, the true poppies are favorites in nearly every 
garden. Added to this the ease with which they 
grow has made a place for them with nearly all flow- 



IN CALIFORNIA 75 

er lovers. Of garden poppies, there are usually culti- 
vated but four species : The opium poppy, the corn 
poppy, the Iceland poppy, and the oriental poppy. 
Of these the opium poppy is by far the greatest 
favorite and has the largest flowers of any annual 
species. Though useless for cut flowers, the plants 
are tall and stately and bear an abundance of blos- 
soms in brilliant colors so that people are content to 
leave the flowers unpicked. 

The corn poppy is more dwarf than the opium 
poppy, with finer-cut leaves. The well-known Shir- 
ley poppy is the best and most popular strain of this 
species. The Iceland poppy is a perennial species 
with shades of red, yellow, and white, and is not 
much grown in California. With many garden own- 
ers the oriental poppy is the favorite because it has 
the largest flowers of all the family. In the East 
it is the easiest of all to grow either from seeds or 
by root division, but in our state the air seems too 
dry. Still, it grows fairly well if never allowed to 
suffer for moisture. All these poppies are easy of 
cultivation; all like rich soil and a generous supply 
of water. Poppies are best sown broadcast and 
should be weeded until they get a good start, and 
then, if sown thickly enough, they will care for them- 
selves, except for watering. 

Sweet Peas 

In the growing of sweet peas too much stress can- 
not be placed upon the necessity for early and deep 
planting if vigorous growth and luxuriant bloom are 
desired. The bed should be prepared some time in 
advance of planting and spaded at least one foot in 
depth, all the better if two feet, with a dressing of 
three inches of well rotted manure spaded in and 
thoroughly incorporated, to insure the roots plenty 



76 THE GARDEN BEAUTIFUL 

of protection from the heat later on and deep soil to 
draw upon, for they are gross feeders. Plant the 
seed at least two inches deep. 

As soon as the plants show the slightest tendency 
to vine they should be provided with a support to 
which the tendrils may attach themselves. Nothing 
is better or more convenient for this purpose than 
wire netting which may be purchased by the yard. 
It should be six feet high for the winter flowering 
varieties and eight feet for the Spencer sorts. 

The sweet pea is one of the thirstiest of plants, 
and when the earth and atmosphere give forth little 
moisture should daily receive a generous allowance 
of water, not a mere sprinkling but a drenching. 
This neglect to water regularly and thoroughly ac- 
counts for many failures in sweet pea culture. An- 
other essential to satisfactory sweet pea growing is 
a sunny exposure. Those grown in the shade are 
neither so thrifty nor is the bloom so rich in color 
or so abundant as when grown in the sun. The sweet 
pea grower should remember that to be prodigal in 
the cutting of the bloom is the surest way to secure 
an increase. The seed may be planted early in the 
fall of the year with excellent results. 

Herbaceous Perennials 

Nothing adds more of quiet charm and homelike- 
ness to a garden than the herbaceous perennial bor- 
der. It is adapted to gardens of any style or any 
amount of care, but in gardens where only a limited 
care can be given, those that are occasionally neg- 
lected for a time, the use of perennials will give 
much more satisfaction than annuals. 

Perennials root deeply in the soil and most of them 
make a fine fibrous system, often running into thou- 
sands of hair-like roots on a single clump of plants. 



IN CALIFORNIA 77 

Such an arrangement well fits them for successfully 
enduring drouths and periods of neglect. Good care 
must of necessity be given the first summer to in- 
sure the proper development of a feeding system. 
Most of these plants will grow where any plant will. 
Good garden soil, warm and light, rather than cold 
and heavy, is preferable. They do not do well in 
wet undrained soil. Fine manure, carefully forked 
in each spring, pays in better plants and more 
flowers. 

There is no part of a garden where so much in 
the way of good flowers may be cut without in any 
manner marring the general effect, for it is neces- 
sary in order to keep up the floral supply that the 
plants be freely cut away in the flower-bearing 
spikes. Some lovely effects may be obtained by a 
judicious arrangement of them either on a large or 
small scale. An ideal position for such borders is 
where the background of a hedge or fence is ob- 
tainable ; in front of this in beds of suitable breadth 
and length with preferably irregular outline on the 
outer margin arrange the various plants, grouping 
the taller specimens in the background and the 
dwarf er sorts in the front. 

OLD FASHIONED FLOWERS 

They ain't no style about 'em, 

And they're sort of pale and faded; 

Yet the doorway here, without 'em, 

Would be lonesomer, and shaded 

With a good deal blacker shadder 

Than the mornin'-glory makes, 

And the sunshine would look sadder, 

For their good old-fashioned sakes. — Riley. 

If more of these old-fashioned perennials were 
used we would hear far less about having "no flow- 



78 THE GARDEN BEAUTIFUL 

ers in summer," and "our garden is so bare of plants 
during hot weather." The perennials among the 
asters, sunflowers, and some others are not so large 
and showy as the annual species, but are much easier 
to grow, and their permanence makes them ex- 
tremely desirable as compared with the annual 
species. 

There is here appended a list of fifty as they oc- 
cur to the author, but this list has not touched upon 
some classes of plants and could be extended into 
the hundreds: ageratum, anemone, aster, begonia, 
boltonia, candytuft, canna, Canterbury bell, chrys- 
anthemum, coreopsis, cuphea, daisy, dahlia, day lily, 
evening primrose, foxglove, forget-me-not, fuchsia, 
gaillardia, geranium, goldenrod, grasses, heliotrope, 
heuchera, hibiscus, hollyhock, hunnemannia, iris, 
larkspur, lavender, linum, lobelia, lupine, nierem- 
bergia, pansy, petunia, phlox, pink, poppy, prim- 
rose, rudbeckia, salvia, snapdragon, statice, stevia, 
stocks, sweet alyssum, sweet william, verbena, violet, 
wallflower. 

PERENNIAL PHLOX 

These old-fashioned plants, in their newer and 
improved types, make one of the most imposing dis- 
plays of color that it is possible to obtain in the gar- 
den. It is not many years since there were but two 
or three colors grown. The phloxes of our grand- 
mother's garden were the small-flowered white, 
pink, and purple varieties. Today we have them in 
every color from pure white to darkest crimson, 
with all the intervening shades of salmon, scarlet, 
rose, pink striped, etc., with enormous individual 
blooms carried in large, beautifully formed trusses. 

Phloxes do remarkably well in California, fur- 
nishing a constant display from early spring to the 



IN CALIFORNIA 79 

advent of winter frosts. They are true perennials 
and increase in vigor and beauty each succeeding 
year. For massing or planting at intervals in mixed 
borders they are beautiful subjects. Their charm- 
ing bright colors are pleasing to the eye and the 
delicious wild-flower-like scent of the blooms is un- 
like that of any other garden plants. Phloxes thrive 
in an open, fully exposed, sunny border, either plant- 
ed by themselves or mixed with other herbaceous 
plants. They are not particular as to soil so long 
as it has been well enriched previous to planting and 
is given an occasional mulch of rotted manure. 

PELARGONIUMS 

Pelargoniums, or Lady Washington geraniums, 
are among the most beautiful of our summer and 
fall flowering plants. They offer a rich and varied 
assortment of colors or combination of colors, and 
the ease with which they may be grown should rec- 
ommend them to all. 

To do well they require a sunny position and a 
perfectly drained soil which is not too rich. They 
are at home against a south wall where the reflected 
rays of a summer sun would destroy the bloom on 
almost any other plant. To keep them in shape they 
should be pinched back from time to time previous 
to the blooming season. By stopping the growth in 
this manner, many flowering lateral growths are 
produced. 

FUCHSIAS 
Fuchsias do well in any well protected north bor- 
der and bloom in great profusion during the greater 
part of the year. Give them a well prepared soil 
which has been thoroughly enriched with decom- 
posed manure and a copious supply of water during 
hot weather. 



80 THE GARDEN BEAUTIFUL 

They require a partially shaded position; a rich, 
well-drained soil with abundance of moisture during 
hot weather. They make a beautiful background 
plant in shady borders and may be grown in various 
shapes to suit the requirements of the bed. A good 
plan is to grow them on fan-shaped trellises four 
or five feet high ; as the growths develop spread them 
out and tie neatly. When they reach the top, pinch 
off the shoots; this induces a heavy growth below, 
and the trellis will soon be covered with a heavy 
leafy growth, and in season with plenty of flowers. 

CANNAS 

Cannas grow so easily that they are too often neg- 
lected, with the result that half of the beauty they 
are capable of developing is lost. If liberal treat- 
ment is afforded them they will produce a dazzling 
blaze of color. 

For subtropical garden effects, used with various 
grasses such as cyperus, papyrus, eulalias, crimson 
fountain grass or caladiums, they are unexcelled. In 
planting them for landscape effect it must be remem- 
bered that they are a background flower, and the 
best display is obtained by massing them. In this 
favored clime cannas bloom almost throughout the 
year. 

MODERN PERENNIAL LARKSPURS 

Hybrids of Delphinium belladonna contain not 
only the sky-blue of the parent type, but all tints 
from palest to darkest blue. The various interven- 
ing shades of sapphire, turquoise, indigo, etc., are 
rich and beautiful. They branch freely from the 
crown and bloom without intermission from early 
spring to late autumn, with an increasing vigor to 
the plants each succeeding season. The blossoms 
are much larger than those of the older variety. 



IN CALIFORNIA 81 

They should be planted in full sun, two feet apart 
each way, in any good loamy soil to which has been 
added and thoroughly dug in a liberal dressing of 
well rotted manure. An occasional mulch of the 
same material during the hot months will greatly 
increase the quality of the bloom. Arrange the 
beds so that the plants may be irrigated either by 
the trench method or by flooding. Sprinkling over- 
head, as with numerous other plants is detrimental 
in many ways and should not be practiced. 

For Sandy or Alkaline Soils 

Use should be made of desert vegetation so far 
as possible. Most California wild flowers that grow 
on our open plains will thrive in arid sections. Ger- 
aniums and petunias are two splendid drouth resis- 
tant plants, and chrysanthemums, German iris, can- 
nas, elephants' ears and Himalayan bamboos may all 
be seen in the Coachella Valley. 

In alkaline soils try: The giant reed, Arundo 
donax ; New Zealand flax, Phormium tenax ; pampas 
grass, Cortaderia argenta; aloes, asparagus, lav- 
ender, lupin, ice plant, yucca, chrysanthemum 
and all nearly related plants of the composite family 
seem to like alkali. 

Carnation Propagation 

Propagating carnations by cuttings is quicker and 
easier than layering ; in fact, except in the case of a 
variety that requires special attention and is diffi- 
cult to root, it is the best for all purposes. The 
shoots at the base of the plant are the best to put 
into the cutting bed. Those that appear on the flow- 
er stems are of inferior quality and will in time show 
signs of degeneration. The same will be the case if 
cuttings are taken from exhausted blooming plants ; 



82 THE GARDEN BEAUTIFUL 

for this reason the flower stems should be removed 
as soon as the flowers on them are faded. 

Some growers do not allow the plants from which 
they intend to take cuttings to bloom at all, so as to 
send all the strength into the plant. Cuttings must 
be taken only from healthiest stock and should have 
an average length of four inches with at least one 
inch of clean stem. When taken off close to the 
branch or stem out of the joint of a leaf no further 
trimming of the heel is necessary. When the shoot 
is long and requires a cut with the knife the cut 
should be made at a joint so that the two leaves can 
be peeled off and leave a clean heel. If cut too far 
back of a joint the wood is hard and difficult to root; 
if cutting is too young and tender the epidermis or 
skin is damaged, and the part below the joint is 
robbed of its outer covering and is very liable to 
rot off. 

The best material in which to root them is clean 
river sand or very fine gravel, three or four inches 
deep, with good drainage. The cuttings may be 
planted one inch apart in the rows and two to three 
inches between rows. Insert them about one inch 
deep, and if there are any leaves that would be bur- 
ied in the sand, cut them off. In putting in the cut- 
tings use a pointed stick called a dibble, or dibber. It 
can be made one-quarter of an inch thick and pointed 
like a lead pencil. Make the hole with the dibble 
and put in the cutting, and then make the sand firm 
at the base of the cutting. It is a good plan to let 
the cuttings stand in water twelve hours after pick- 
ing and before planting. Never let a cutting wilt. 

After the cuttings are in they should be shaded. 
The best thing to use is newspapers. Lay them on 
top of the box of cuttings, keeping them away from 
foliage by sticking in the sand a few little splinters 



IN CALIFORNIA 83 

of wood to bear weight of papers. One thickness 
is enough. Cuttings should be kept from drafts so 
as to avoid evaporation in the foliage and should also 
be sprayed two or three times a day for the first 
week or ten days in bright weather, and the sand 
should never be allowed to get dry. After ten days 
they can be given some sun. It will take six weeks 
for them to root, and they should never be allowed 
to remain in the sand any considerable length of time 
after they are fairly rooted. 

Carnations prefer a deep loamy soil which has 
been well enriched with rotted manure. The posi- 
tions for the beds should be in full sun. Plant in 
rows two and one-half feet apart, with the plants 
fifteen inches apart in the row. This arrangement 
allows for liberal cultivation and irrigation by small 
trenches along both sides of the row. They do far 
better under this system of watering than when 
sprinkled. To obtain the largest sized blooms, re- 
move when quite small all the lateral buds, leaving 
only the terminal, as is done in disbudding chrysan- 
themums. 

Wild Gardens 

When copious rains have fallen and the soil is 
wetted to considerable depth, it is time to sow gar- 
dens where the seeds are to be broadcast and no 
subsequent cultivation is contemplated. If such 
areas have been worked over, weed seeds started 
and the plantlets destroyed, they are ready for plant- 
ing. If the area is still in a raw state allow the 
weed seeds time to start, then thoroughly hoe over 
the surface, allow time for weeds to die and the lag- 
gard ones to spring into life, then hoe over again, 
sow your seeds, rake over and pulverize the surface 
and let nature do the rest, for this latter is some- 



84 THE GARDEN BEAUTIFUL 

thing in which you cannot render much aid. If one 
pulling of weeds can be given while plants are very 
small, from the vantage point of boards laid on the 
surface, much better results will ensue. 

House Borders 

Every building should have a space for plants 
left close to the foundation. No cement or other 
walks should be built within three feet if conditions 
will allow such space to be left, and in new places 
this is always possible. The angle formed by ground 
and building should be filled with plants and an occa- 
sional vine should clamber over a corner or along a 
porch. The house should appear to rise out of a 
mass of shrubs and plants, as a gem rises above its 
setting. No place has a proper finish without such 
provision for embellishment. 

Bright Colors Needed 

Too many home places suffer from a lack of tone 
or color. Many plants with light-colored flowers, 
vast stretches of cement or gravel walks, faded and 
undecided shade in the house paint, all tend to a 
wishy-washy effect that is sadly in need of brighten- 
ing. Such conditions call for not a mere touch of 
color, but a dominance of some strong-growing ef- 
fective plant. Scarlet geraniums or Ragged Robin 
roses in masses or hedges will bring the desired 
effect and produce a really wonderful transforma- 
tion in what was formerly a very uninteresting 
prospect. 




A CALIFORNIA WATER GARDEN 

Floating on a Victoria Leaf 



CHAPTER VII 

WATER GARDENS AND AQUATICS 

In a country like ours where there is a scarcity 
of rivers, lakes, ponds, etc., yet where ice seldom 
forms, artificial bodies of water, however small, are 
much appreciated. Here we may have some sort 
of a water garden throughout the year. Many peo- 
ple hesitate to incorporate a lily pond in plans for 
the home grounds because of the general, but erron- 
eous, impression that such features are quite costly. 
The expense of water gardening is almost entirely 
that of first cost, the subsequent expense as com- 
pared with any other like garden area being small 
indeed. 

No garden, however large or small, is complete 
without an aquatic department. Water, with its 
attendant vegetable and animal life, lends a more 
varied and varying charm to the landscape, near or 
distant, than any other garden accessory. The great 
range in form of aquatic plants and flowers simply 
baffles description or intelligent comparison, and in 
the long list of possibilities are plants adapted to or- 
dinary damp soil and on down the line to those which 
will grow only when wholly beneath the water at all 
times, like the wonderful water fern and several 
other denizens of the cerulean depths. 

Add to all this the animal life, from the sluggish 
water snail to the never-resting paradise fish, the 
graceful sweep and beauteous colors of the fantailed 
goldfish, and one has a world in miniature though 
his garden contain but a small pond for aquatics — 



86 THE GARDEN BEAUTIFUL 

a never-ending and ever-changing source of enjoy- 
ment. Even in lands of much natural water the 
chief charm of the garden is a well-stocked pond or 
lake, but in a country like California, with few 
streams of size or inland bodies of note, water in 
a garden adds a wealth and variety impossible to 
produce with any other agency. 

Many are deterred from acquiring a water garden 
through fear of cost and care, but this phase of gar- 
dening is only costly when one builds on a large 
scale. You may have your goldfish and water lilies 
in one or more half -barrels — if but one, a pair of 
fan-tailed goldfish costs but a dollar and a plant of 
the more common kinds of water lilies the same, so 
that all you need is a half -barrel and two dollars. 
Care there is not, for this proper balance of animal 
and vegetable life keeps the water pure and clear at 
all times. 

Aquatic Flowers 

In the great family of nymphea alone the range 
of color starts with the purest white and ranges by 
an almost imperceptible gradation to three strik- 
ingly deep and beautiful extremes of color — orange, 
crimson and blue, the two latter being really maroon 
and indigo, respectively, so intensely deep and sub- 
stantial are these wonderful colorings. Only one 
other class of plants yields flowers of such exquisite 
color and texture — the tropical orchids, and then 
only when grown under glass with tropical heat and 
moisture and in no wise rivalling the aquatics in 
size of bloom. 

The greatest charm of the water garden lies in 
the ability of every one to grow these blossoms of 
richest hue in the open garden with nothing to be 
done but watch them unfold their magnificence under 



IN CALIFORNIA 87 

the magic influence of our almost tropic summer sun. 
The range in the size of aquatic flowers is fully as 
striking as that in color; the little white lily from 
Siberia has flowers no larger than a half-dollar, yet 
as perfect in all its parts and as full of series of 
petals as the giant lily of the Amazon, victoria, over 
a foot across. Still smaller than the Siberian is the 
dainty little frosted snowflake flower. 

All flowering aquatics should be planted so that 
they will be exposed to full sunlight. 

Making the Pond 

Every one may have at least a half barrel sunk in 
the ground for a good water lily plant. In a country 
of vineyards it should be easy to get a large wine 
barrel. Sink one or both halves in the soil to within 
three inches of the top of staves. Put in just a foot 
of pond muck, leaf-mold soil or even a good garden 
loam, and in this plant your lily bulbs. After plant- 
ing, pour in water very carefully so as not to dis- 
turb the soil, until a few inches above surface of 
soil. After the leaves begin to grow gradually fill 
with water. These miniature water gardens are in- 
expensive and a source of much pleasure. 

In making a pond the excavated soil can be used 
in forming the banks of varied heights and config- 
urations. The outline of the pond, like that of a belt 
of trees or shrubbery border skirting a lawn, should 
be varied and irregular, with bold points and deep 
indentations, and these should be few and bold 
rather than frequent and tame. The resemblance 
between a level lawn, surrounded by curved outlines 
of shrubbery, and that of a smooth sheet of water 
in a pond or small lake, with jutting banks and retir- 
ing bays, is very close, so far as relates to their 
artistic treatment in ornamental planting. The most 



88 THE GARDEN BEAUTIFUL 

natural position for a sheet of water is in a hollow 
or low spot in the grounds. The total depth of the 
pond should be two feet and four inches. 

Keeping the Water Pure 

Ponds need a renewal of water only when they 
get their annual cleaning out, and a little occasion- 
ally to replace that lost by evaporation, etc. If the 
proper balance of animal and vegetable life is main- 
tained it naturally follows that all the inmates are 
living under perfectly natural conditions. Who has 
not noticed that natural ponds containing animal 
and vegetable life have clear, pure water throughout 
the year? Aquatic animal life abstracts oxygen gas 
from the water and gives off carbonic acid gas ; this 
latter vegetable life absorbs and sets free the oxygen. 
The author has kept a pair of golden carp, or "gold- 
fish," in one gallon of water without changing it 
for several months. The only other contents were 
a few pebbles and a single water plant. If this can 
be done it should prove an easy matter to preserve 
the proper balance in a pond. A few healthy fish 
will also keep the pond clear of mosquitoes, as all of 
them will be greedily devoured while in the "wrig- 
gler" stage. 

All tanks, ponds or lakes should have submerged 
plants growing in them to aerify the water, thereby 
keeping it pure and sweet. The best plants for this 
purpose are Anacharis Canadensis gigantea, Ca- 
bomba viridifolia, Sagittaria natans and Vallisneria 
spiralis. These can be planted in water from six 
inches to two feet deep. 

What to Plant 

Forty varieties of water lilies, besides many small 
water plants, as also ten varieties of Egyptian lotus, 



IN CALIFORNIA 89 

growing luxuriantly and sending forth many blos- 
soms give witness that our climate is certainly suit- 
able to the cultivation of the tenderest of aquatic 
plants. Before selection for color, etc., it is best to 
send for the catalogue of a dealer in aquatics. 

HARDY WATER LILIES 

Nympheas: Aurora, candidissima, Gladstoniana, 
gloriosa, lucida, Marliacea carnea, M. chromatella, 
M. Robinsoni, M. rosea, odorata Caroliniana, pyg- 
maea and pygmaea helvola. 

TROPICAL DAY-BLOOMING 

Nymphea Pennsylvania, Zanzibarensis, Z. azurea, 
and Z. rosea. 

TROPICAL NIGHT-BLOOMING 

Nymphea dentata grandiflora, dentata superba, 
Devoniensis, and George Huster. 

Old plants of tropical lilies often succumb to the 
chill of water during winter. Small nut-like tubers 
produced by keeping seedling plants in four-inch 
pots during summer, are more hardy and responsive 
than old crowns that have flowered. 

FINE CALIFORNIA HYBRIDS 

Several years ago a new series of hybrids ap- 
peared in a commercial water garden in Los An- 
geles, produced by the crossing of N. gracilis with 
N. Zanzibarensis and its varieties. They are strong 
and vigorous growers, producing very freely flowers 
much larger than N. gracilis, being eight to ten 
inches across, on stems standing fifteen inches or 
more out of the water. They increase freely by 
offsets, producing large tubers which are perfectly 
hardy in the citrus belts of California. The flowers 
are very useful for cutting as they can be placed in 



90 THE GARDEN BEAUTIFUL 

vases in the same manner as ordinary garden 
flowers. 

THE GIANT VICTORIA 

Victoria Cruziana is the best variety of Victoria 
for growing in the open in California. Seeds should 
be started in January in water at eighty degrees, 




EGYPTIAN LOTUS 



IN CALIFORNIA 91 

and the plants kept in a warm greenhouse until 
June 1st, when they may be planted out in the pond. 
This is the grandest of all aquatic plants. Leaves 
are not infrequently six feet across and flowers are 
one foot, of purest white, later turning to pink. As 
the plant is an annual, hard to grow from seeds, 
it will be better to buy young plants from a dealer 
in aquatics. 

EGYPTIAN LOTUS 

Nelumbiums, popularly known as Egyptian lotus, 
attain the greatest perfection if planted in the heav- 
iest adobe soil, fertilized soon after planting out 
and each spring thereafter with dried blood at the 
rate of one pound to each ten square feet of surface. 

There are many varieties, but those found to do 
best in California and now accepted as standards 
are : Nelumbium album grandiflora, album striatum, 
Osiris, Pekinensis rubrum plenum, roseum plenum, 
Shiroman, and speciosum. 

Suitable Soil 

The most suitable soil for water plants in general, 
with the exception of nelumbiums, is a rich loam 
and the best rotted horse or cow manure mixed to- 
gether in equal parts, with the addition of one or 
one and a half pounds of bone meal to each wheel- 
barrow load of soil, and we must not omit seeing 
that the mixing is done thoroughly. Nelumbiums 
love heavy loam or heavy, greasy clay, well enriched, 
as do all other water plants. They do not thrive 
and seldom or never blossom in sand or in soil 
strongly mixed with sand. 

Lilies which are grown in beds of soil or in natural 
ponds will be much benefited by an application in 
spring of dried blood manure, broadcasted on the 
surface of the water at the rate of one pound to 



92 



THE GARDEN BEAUTIFUL 



every ten square feet of surface. Those in boxes 
and tubs need the same fertilizing. 

When tanks, half barrels, or tubs are used, and 
after the soil has been filled in, a layer of pure sand 
to the thickness of two inches should be put on top, 
to prevent the fertilizing substances which have been 
mixed with the soil from rising to the surface. When 
using tanks or tubs it is necessary to see that they 
are exposed or built in places where they will re- 
ceive a large amount of sunshine during the day, as 
this is one of the main points in successful cultiva- 
tion. 

Building an Aquarium 

After trying to make a wooden one hold water and 
wasting two month's patience and hard work, I built 




two of one inch angle iron, 13x16x26 inches, and 
they did not leak a drop and look as well as though 
I had paid a fancy price for them. I gave them a 
coating of red lead inside before putting in the glass 
and painted outside with black iron varnish. 

Use the following mixture for cement ; it is an old 



IN CALIFORNIA 93 

receipt, but as reliable as can be made: Take 3 
parts litharge; 3 parts fine white sand, perfectly- 
dry; 3 parts plaster of Paris; 1 part finely pulver- 
ized resin. Mix thoroughly and make into a soft 
putty with linseed oil to which some dryer has been 
added. You may use the cement in two hours after 
mixing and put water in tanks in less than twelve 
hours after setting the glass. Use second-hand plate 
glass for sides and ends and one-fourth inch sky- 
light glass, corrugated on one side for bottom. 

Care of Aquarium 

When the aquarium is to be thoroughly cleaned 
and rearranged, which should be done once or twice 
every year, the water is carefully dipped out or 
drawn off with a rubber syphon to within about six 
inches from the bottom. This water, if practicable, 
is saved and used again when the tank is refilled. 
The older the water the better. The author has 
used water for years in this way. Next take out the 
rockwork, then all the plants, also the larger pebbles, 
and now carefully catch and remove the fish, etc., 
placing them in a clean tin vessel with plenty of 
water of suitable temperature. Take out the re- 
mainder of the water now and also the sand, but do 
not move the tank, if a heavy one, from its position. 
After washing the sand particles off the inside of 
the glass to prevent scratching, clean the entire in- 
side of the tank by rubbing it with ordinary table 
salt, using the fingers instead of a brush. All the 
brownish or green matter being taken off the tank 
is once more washed with clean water and is then 
ready for replanting. 

Water-Garden Pests 
Innumerable kinds of aquatic insects breed in the 
water, and some of their larvae prey upon the leaves 



94 THE GARDEN BEAUTIFUL 

of the lilies, but the common water snail is the great- 
est enemy of aquatic plants. The goldfish assist very 
materially in destroying these larvae and snails, but 
we have found a complete preventive of injury to 
the foliage from this source by keeping in the tank, 
in addition to the goldfish, some of the common spot- 
ted sunfish. They are carnivorous in habit and very 
alert and active. Moreover, it is impossible for mos- 
quitoes to breed in a water lily basin in which an 
abundance of the above named fish, or those of sim- 
ilar habit, are kept. Thus one objection to locating 
these tanks or ponds in the vicinity of the dwelling- 
house is removed. 

Water-Side Iris 

The apogon, or beardless iris, is a very interesting 
section and contains some very beautiful species and 
varieties. Some of these are as easy of culture as 
those in the bearded section, while some require more 
moisture and different treatment. Many are excel- 
lent for planting around lily ponds, in tubs, etc., par- 
ticularly the taller growing varieties, where the 
roots receive plenty of moisture during the grow- 
ing and blooming period. Like nearly all of the 
genus, when the plants are established they can 
be allowed to dry out for a time during the sum- 
mer months — in fact, most of them are the better 
for it — which is an excellent feature, as it is a time 
when our gardening enthusiasm wanes. A few in 
this section do remarkably well with no more mois- 
ture than our bearded irises receive. 



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THE TROPIC-AMERICAN CERIMAN 

Monstera deliciosa 



CHAPTER VIII 
HOUSE AND PORCH PLANTS 

Henry Ward Beecher declared that he always 
found house plants an infallible test in selecting ac- 
quaintances, neatness, cleanliness, and innumerable 
virtues being the usual accompaniments of a love of 
flowers. It is an unquestionable fact that the culti- 
vation and care of plants instills love of nature 
and has an uplifting and ennobling influence on man- 
kind. Go where you will you meet with the best 
reception in every way at such places where the 
greatest love is manifest for the beauties of nature. 
When the traveler comes upon a home where there 
is a roomy, well-planned, well-kept garden he at once 
feels a desire to know the inmates personally, for 
he is certain to find there more or less generosity, 
intelligence and refinement. 

House Plants 

Many people are thoroughly discouraged with try- 
ing to grow house plants, when they might enjoy 
healthy and beautiful specimens by observing a few 
simple rules. You cannot take any plant you have 
and keep it just where you would most like it for 
effect without regard to what it needs. Many can- 
not thrive without sunshine, while others require lit- 
tle or none. 

Every plant needs plenty of light, and nearly all 
a little sun, and if they do not get it ill-health and 
death will ensue. Scarcely a single pot plant re- 
quires or will endure the same exposure or aspect 



96 THE GARDEN BEAUTIFUL 

throughout the year ; some will survive the sunshine 
of winter but quickly succumb to the uninterrupted 
summer sun. Give them plenty of fresh air, every 
day, even in winter, leave the doors and windows 
open as much as possible, but do not allow a strong, 
cold draft to strike across tender plants. 

Exercise great care in watering; hundreds of fine 
plants are ruined by daily waterings. Water thor- 
oughly, a generous soaking, filling up the pot three 
or four times, about frve minutes apart. Then let 
them rest for several days, or until the earth gets 
dry on top. A better plan for watering is to stand 
the pots in a vessel of water for from ten to twenty 
minutes. Air is as necessary to the roots of a plant 
as it is to the top, and when confined in a pot soon 
loses its life-giving properties and must be changed. 
You may drive out the foul air by a thorough water- 
ing and then when the water dries out it will be re- 
placed by fresh air, thus giving perfect ventilation 
to the soil. 

POTTING AND REPOTTING 

Need of repotting is shown when the pot is fairly 
well filled with roots so that when the pot is removed 
the ball of soil is held together and netted over with 
good live roots. Some few plants need repotting 
before this stage is reached ; still fewer should remain 
unpotted longer, but both of these classes are marked 
exceptions to the rule and need not be treated in 
general advice on potting. Generally a shift to a 
pot one size larger is enough and this but once a year, 
preferably in the spring. Sometimes it is not neces- 
sary to entirely repot. A considerable quantity of 
the old soil can be dug out without seriously dis- 
turbing the roots, and fresh soil given in its place. 
This is an easier and quicker operation than entire 



IN CALIFORNIA 97 

repotting and interferes less with the roots and their 
functions and is advised in cases where it would seem 
to be sufficient to meet the demands of the plant, as 
may easily be the case if the potting soil is very rich. 
The use of liquid fertilizer or concentrated forms of 
dry commercial chemical fertilizers that are nearly 
odorless is becoming so common that we find it safe 
to do away with repotting for a long time, depend- 
ing on the concentrated food furnished by these fer- 
tilizers rather than fresh soil as heretofore. Re- 
liable fertilizers are prepared on scientific formulas 
and contain all the elements necessary for plant 
growth in the most convenient and available form. 
Repotting should generally be done in the spring and 
before the plant makes its annual growth. There 
will come to most plants a time when they seem 
almost dormant, but after they have had a good 
resting spell there will be signs of renewed growth 
quite apparent to the observant grower. This is the 
time to repot them. It is well to keep all freshly 
potted or repotted plants from both wind, sun, or 
rapid changes of temperature for several days and 
sprinkle them lightly two or more times each day 
for the first week. This treatment will aid mate- 
rially in overcoming any shock the plant may have 
received through injury or disturbance of its roots. 

Window Boxes 

Buildings whose lines of architecture are unus- 
ually stiff and conventional and whose colors are 
quiet, like the Quaker drab of many plastered resi- 
dences, need the vine and window garden more than 
others. Delicate growth of vines takes away the 
harsh effect of too many straight lines, softening 
them into harmony with the surroundings. They 
also relieve the glaring effect of plain walls of brick, 



98 THE GARDEN BEAUTIFUL 

cement, or stone. Window boxes are equally useful 
and not less ornamental. 

The plain neutral gray of Florentine mission 
houses needs a touch of color to brighten their other- 
wise somber appearance. It is also true that window 
boxes do much to lighten the paint and stain effects 
on wooden buildings. For the purpose nothing seems 
more suitable than ivy geraniums, and these may 
be had in a great variety of colors or shades. For 
dark buildings any shade from pure white to pink 
will prove harmonious, but those having a touch of 
magenta or purple should be avoided either in win- 
dow box or garden. For the Quaker gray above 
noted the pinks only should be used and the deeper 
the gray or cream of plastered houses, the deeper 
should be the shade of the flowers used. This class 
of geraniums has been much improved of late, and 
you may easily obtain any shade of pink desired. 

While plants in window boxes should have plenty 
of room to grow, it is also necessary to have them 
somewhat effective at once, so that fair-sized plants 
must be used. Therefore get large plants in small 
pots and you will have them fairly showy from the 
start and yet be able to plant them in small compass. 
In nearly all cases window boxes are wholly insuf- 
ficient in capacity, especially as regards depth, so 
that care must be taken to have them filled with 
none but the richest soil. For the same reason it is 
best to remove from the roots of the plants used as 
much soil as is possible safely, so that it may be 
replaced by the fresh and stronger. 

Owing to root disturbance it will be found advis- 
able to keep the boxes cool and shaded for a few 
days after planting, or until the plants have resumed 
root action and former functions. In filling in the 
soil it is best to put on the bottom, before setting 



IN CALIFORNIA 99 

any plants, two or more inches of well-rotted manure 
for future plant food ; in reserve, as it were. Econ- 
omize in room as much as possible when planting; 
no harm will result from pressing the balls of soil 
about the roots quite flat if they are to lie against 
the sides of the box. Plant the sides first and the 
middle last, and get enough vines to fairly hide the 
box. Care must be taken to see that all interstices 
between plant balls are filled with soil, so that the 
soil used should be finely sifted and not too wet. 

After careful planting settle with thorough water- 
ings, and then before putting in permanent position 
fill up to within one to two inches of the top, using 
finely-sifted, well-rotted manure for the top half -inch 
to provide a mulch which will largely overcome the 
evaporation of soil moisture. More window-box 
plants during summer are ruined by too little than 
by too much watering. The crimson-flowered lotus 
(Lotus peliorensis) would prove just the plant for 
such places. Do not confuse the botanical name, 
lotus, which belongs to members of the pea family 
(Leguminosae) , with the popular name, lotus, which 
is often given to water plants of the genus nelumbo. 
Our plant is a trailer with finely cut, grayish-green 
foliage and crimson flowers of parrot-bill form ; flow- 
ers closely resembling those of clianthus. It will 
stand great heat and much drouth. 

Hanging Baskets 

There is no class of plants so neglected as those in 
hanging baskets. In their exposed position they 
dry out very rapidly, and are often given only a lit- 
tle water on top. The roots that need moisture so 
much seldom receive any, and these baskets are any- 
thing but ornaments. They should be taken down 
at least once a week, placed in a tub of water and 



100 THE GARDEN BEAUTIFUL 

left there for half an hour. All of the plants should 
be submerged. In very dry weather this should be 
done twice a week, then they will be things of living 
green, instead of withered, sickly plants. A little 
liquid fertilizer given while they are wet will cause 
them to make more rapid growth, and if of bloom- 
ing kinds will cause more buds to appear. 

One of the most useful plants for large hanging 
baskets or shaded window boxes is the English ivy. 
This old favorite can stand more rough usage and 
neglect than any drooping plant or vine used for the 
purpose. The climbing vinca or periwinkle, often 
called climbing myrtle, is another rank-growing vine 
for large baskets, but it is a gross feeder and will 
not endure neglect like the ivy. The variegated gle- 
choma is a neat, hardy little vine and even the maur- 
andya is excellent for baskets. 

Instead of allowing all vines to hang as they will, 
pin or tie part of them to the moss or the basket so 
as to hide the bareness of the latter. The Kenil- 
worth ivy is a good plant for this purpose. Abutilon 
vexillarium, nierembergia, ivy-leaved geranium are 
all good for basket edges, or plant a border of lobelia. 
While flowering plants should be used to give change 
and pleasing variety, many prefer the plain green 
of asparagus or ferns. Asparagus plumosus, often 
called asparagus fern, does not require the amount 
of soil or feeding that Asparagus Sprengeri does, nor 
is it so hardy or tough, but it may be kept longer in 
pot or basket. 

Nephrolepis davallioides and its variety, furcans, 
are two good sword ferns for baskets where plenty 
of soil is present. N. exaltata, the common sword 
fern, is a good "standing" plant and will endure 
much abuse and neglect, but is seldom graceful 
enough for baskets. N. tuberosa is a handsomer 



IN CALIFORNIA 101 

species of dwarf er habit. Onychium, or carrot ferns, 
are good subjects; 0. auratum has a yellow tint on 
the under side of leaf, and O. Japonicum is green, 
though in other respects quite like the first named 
species. The platyceriums, or staghorn ferns, are 
the most attractive of all for hanging or wall bas- 
kets or on blocks of wood and when once well estab- 
lished make good house plants. 

All ferns or other plants with thick, leathery foli- 
age endure the dust and dry air of living rooms 
though they need liberal quantities of water. All of 
the pteris or winged ferns are suitable for planting 
in baskets, more especially the dwarfer sorts, for 
they are of hardy constitution. Among other plants 
for central positions, Begonia Erfordii and all of 
that type are most excellent. A prime favorite with 
all who know it is Farf ugium grande, var. punctata, 
the leopard leaf, a composite with nearly round 
leaves of dark green thickly spotted with yellow 
"polka dots." As these plants are all good material 
for hanging baskets, they are also equally good for 
pot culture and thrive splendidly in the house if 
given a reasonable amount of care. 

Popular House Plants 

Flowering pot plants need not be pot-pound in 
order to bloom, but they blossom much more freely 
when the pot is fairly filled with roots. While a 
plant is making a heavy root growth it rarely ever 
flowers, but only when the season's growth is fin- 
ished. This action suggests that a plant should fin- 
ish blooming and also have a rest before it is re- 
potted and called upon for another supreme effort. 

HOUSE FERNS 
Only a few of the many varieties of ferns will do 
well under ordinary house conditions. Most vari- 



102 THE GARDEN BEAUTIFUL 

eties are too sensitive to the extremes of tempera- 
ture and the dry air commonly found in living rooms, 
and even the hardiest should occasionally be left out 
of doors for a few days in order to recuperate dissi- 
pated vigor. If house ferns could be put outside 
every night their house life would be lengthened al- 
most indefinitely. Occasionally they should be 
sprayed, and to leave them outside for a time when 
the rain is falling cannot fail of benefit. 

One who has a fine collection of house ferns and 
a few palms has found a very novel and successful 
way of keeping them in first-class condition. About 
once a week she places them in the bathroom, fills 
the tub with water made as hot as possible, closes all 
doors and windows and leaves the plants in this 
steam bath for three or four hours. Then the win- 
dows are gradually opened so as not to cool the 
plants too quickly, and when the bathroom has come 
down to normal temperature the plants are removed. 
This treatment renders washing of the leaves un- 
necessary, nor have any of these plants been attacked 
by scale or other pests. 

For a house fern the maidenhair most common in 
our nurseries and florists' establishments, Adiantum 
cuneatum, easily holds first place, though not so 
hardy for the house as are the sword ferns and a 
few others. 

Asplenium nidus avis, bird's nest fern, is a very 
handsome species with broad leaves. The mid-rib 
is black in color, with a foliage otherwise of a golden 
cast; a very desirable species for conservatories or 
indoor decoration, being quite distinct from all other 
ferns. 

Cyrtomium f alcatum, the holly fern, is an elegant 
hardy species, with broad palmate fronds of a deep 



IN CALIFORNIA 103 

glossy green. It grows readily in pots or may be 
planted outside. 

Nephrolepis exaltata, variety Bostoniensis, is but 
a sport from the common sword fern which is native 
to Florida and many other parts of the world. Dur- 
ing the past few years we have seen a most remark- 
able development of house ferns among sports from 
the Boston fern until at present we have a half- 
dozen forms more ornate: Nephrolepis Whitmani, 
Witteboldii, Washingtoniensis, Piersoni, Alice Fos- 
ter and elegantisssima. While all have merit, none 
are so hardy in every way as the Boston fern. 

Another neat sword fern is N. cordata compacta, 
and for a small pot plant is to be preferred to the 
Boston. Two plants closely related to the common 
sword fern and representing the extremes in size, 
are N. Philippinense, quite a dwarf, and N. Wash- 
ingtoniensis which grows to a height of five or more 
feet. 

The platyceriums are a group of ferns that are 
not sufficiently grown by the amateur plant fancier. 
Fastened on a block of wood or the bark of a tree 
and given a shady, moist situation, with an occa- 
sional shower of water, they thrive abundantly. To 
prevent them from requiring too frequent spraying 
some florist's moss may be fastened on the block 
under the plant. These plants may also be grown 
in pots of soil. There are now several horticultural 
forms, but the two species common are from Aus- 
tralia, and in their native home they are known as 
"elkhorn fern,'' Platycerium alcicorne, and "stag- 
horn fern," P. grande. 

For a large pot plant Pteris tremula, one of the 
so-called brake ferns, will give the best satisfaction. 
In cut-leaved ferns Onychium Japonicum, the Japa- 



104 THE GARDEN BEAUTIFUL 

nese parsley fern, and Polystichum angulare, var. 
proliferum, are the most easily grown. 

A fern ball of Davallia bullata needs an annual 
rest. Gradually dry it off and allow it to remain dor- 
mant for a time. This should be done once each year 
at the season when you can best spare it or when 
you can give it the least attention. When you again 
start it into life do not let it get dry at any time but 
keep it soaked by immersion in a pail of water when- 
ever necessary. When the growth is strong and 
healthy soak it about once each month in weak 
manure water. 

PALMS 

The most popular house plants are the kentias, so 
called, and they will doubtless never be superseded, 
for they very closely approach the ideal. Next to 
the aspidistra and rubber plant they will stand more 
neglect and abuse than any others and far surpass 
in graceful beauty either of the plants mentioned. 
There are but two species, K. Belmoreana and K. 
Fosteriana, both properly Howeas, though Hedescepe 
Canterburyana is also called a Kentia. 

The owner of house palms should see that they 
get frequent baths and that the fronds are properly 
sponged off. The leaves of a plant are its lungs and 
are full of pores much the same in size and construc- 
tion as those in the human skin, and if these are 
allowed to remain clogged with dirt and dust an un- 
healthy condition must eventually ensue. 

Phoenix Eoebelenii, the dwarf phoenix, a new 
and beautiful species introduced a few years ago, 
has taken a leading position in the none too long 
list of palms suitable for interior decoration. It is 
an extremely slow grower, much the same shape 
as other phoenix, but miniature in size. This species 



IN CALIFORNIA 105 

appears to be as tough and durable as any of the 
more common ones so familiar to us, yet at maturity 
reaches a total height of but six feet, and this only 
after a great many years. 

A GENERAL LIST 

Many people include among the ferns the several 
species of asparagus, and one of them, Asparagus 
plumosus, known as the asparagus fern, requires 
similar treatment. A. scandens deflexus, a rare and 
but little known species, is the most beautiful of all. 
It is of compact trailing habit like Asparagus Spren- 
geri, but with very fine, dense, pale green foliage. 
Asparagus Sprengeri, the most enduring of all, is a 
gross feeder and is perennially thirsty. It may be 
grown either in pots or hanging baskets, and will 
stand either full sun or partial shade. 

The aralias, with the exception of A. papyrifera, 
are adapted for house or conservatory culture. They 
are very pretty decorative plants and do remarkably 
well indoors. A. Sieboldii and A. Sieboldii variegata 
are very tropical looking small shrubs with very 
large, deeply lobed glossy palmate leaves, those of 
the latter broadly marked with creamy white. 

Aucuba Japonica, the gold dust plant, is a very 
handsome shrub and one of the best of the colored- 
leaved foliage plants. With large glossy leaves, 
spotted with golden-yellow, followed by bright scar- 
let berries in the fall, it is a fine decorative house 
plant and well adapted to pot or tub culture. 

For hardiness, beauty and general utility as a 
decorative specimen Aspidistra lurida may well be 
regarded as one of the best. It will thrive for 
months in a room where little light reaches it and 
does equally well as a shady porch plant or in a gar- 
den fernery. 



106 THE GARDEN BEAUTIFUL 

BEGONIAS 

Begonias are divided into three general classes, 
the fibrous-rooted, the rex begonia, grown for its 
foliage, and the tuberous-rooted. There are scores 
of varieties and all thrive in the house under pot cul- 
ture. 

Begonia manicata aurea has large, beautifully 
mottled leaves of yellow and green and fine pink 
flowers. It will endure the dry heat of the ordinary 
living room as well as any plant we have and will 
stand an unusual amount of neglect and ill usage. 
Those who have grown it as a house plant prefer it 
to other begonias. 

Plant begonias in a very loose soil. There is noth- 
ing better than pure leaf mold or rotted sod with the 
addition of coarse sand. If this is not easily ob- 
tained add a portion of chopped sphagnum moss to 
any rich garden soil with a little coarse soil. If 
fertilizer be used, let it be old and thoroughly rot- 
ted, like rich black earth, and easily crumbled. Be- 
gonias are comparatively free from insect pests but 
sometimes become infested with scale. 

Farfugium grande is a fine ornamental, shade-lov- 
ing plant with large roundish leaves, dark green, with 
yellow blotches or "polka-dots." It makes a fine plant 
for porch decoration when grown in tubs, or may 
be treated as an open ground plant in shady places. 

Ficus elastica is commonly referred to as the rub- 
ber plant and is a splendid plant of highly decorative 
nature. The leaves are long, broad, and a deep shin- 
ing green. Small specimens are unsurpassed as 
choice table or parlor plants, standing much neg- 
lect and rough usage. 

Monstera deliciosa is one of the handsomest of 
tropical foliage plants, with dark green leaves, 



IN CALIFORNIA 107 

deeply lobed and notched at the edges and curiously 
punctured with round and oval holes. The leaves 
attain a width of two feet by three and a half in 
length. The plant is of climbing habit and sends 
out long aerial roots along the stem; these soon 
reach the ground, take root in the soil and furnish 
the plant with needed moisture. There is nothing 
more decorative for house culture. It also does well 
against a wall in any position where there is plenty 
of shade, but will not endure freezing temperatures. 

The idea, once so prevalent, about orchids being 
difficult subjects to grow and flower, is now tolerably 
well exploded. Some species certainly need lots of 
fussing over, but many kinds will succeed well in 
any ordinary greenhouse, and we have seen on more 
than one occasion nicely flowered specimens grown 
in dwelling houses. Such sorts as Dendrobium no- 
bile, Cypripedium insigne and other terrestrials, Ly- 
caste Skinneri, and Coelogyne cristata will flower 
satisfactorily in an ordinary shady bay window if a 
little judgment is used in watering and other essen- 
tial details. 

Pandanus, Vietchii, a dracena-like plant, having 
leaves marked longitudinally with creamy white 
bands, in a young state is very effective as a decora- 
tive plant. Some people object to P. Veitchii on 
account of its fancied resemblance to the ribbon 
grasses ; others have the idea that it won't stand well 
as a house plant, that it is harmed by being kept out 
of a high temperature, which is not the case. It will 
thrive equally as well as Ficus elastica, provided 
root conditions are favorable — that is, good drainage 
and porous soil. It will not permanently stand a low 
temperature, however, and requires a warm, sunny 
room for best development. 



108 THE GARDEN BEAUTIFUL 

Keep Plants Clean 

Keep your plants free from dust and vermin at 
all times. Dust closes the pores and thereby stops 
circulation in plants as surely as it does in the hu- 
man body. Half a dozen scale insects, if neglected 
today, mean several times the number in a few 
weeks, though such a caution in this volume is hardly 
necessary, for nearly everyone owning plants is 
painfully aware of the rapid increase of all scales. 
If plants have light from but one or two sides, turn 
them around every few days to keep them sym- 
metrical. Keep the surface of the soil pulverized 
and loose, so that it can get water and air readily. 
If the soil is moldy on top or shows on the outside 
of the pot, the drainage is at fault. 

Care of Cut Flowers 

Cut flowers when properly treated can be kept 
fresh for two to three weeks. Every night take them 
out of the water and thoroughly rinse the stalks, 
removing decomposed matter. Put them into a basin 
of strong soapsuds, but do not allow any water to 
touch the flowers. In the morning rinse the stalks 
in the water again, and, as each blossom is arranged 
in a vase of fresh water, cut off a small portion of 
the stem, for each day the pores are closed by con- 
gealing sap and a fresh cut allows water free access 
to the stem. 




r #^ 



GERMAN IRIS, LORELEI 



CHAPTER IX 
BULBS AND TUBERS 

Bulbous plants are among the most beautiful orna- 
ments of gardens and when well selected some kinds 
may be seen in bloom every day in the year. It is 
important to plant nearly all imported bulbs, espe- 
cially narcissi and lilies, as soon as they can be ob- 
tained, generally in September. Iris and gladioli can 
be planted at different times, even as late as June, 
to secure a succession of blooms. No fertilizers ex- 
cept bone meal need be used, ammonia in any form 
being injurious to them. 

To get good effects and pleasing groups with this 
class of plants one ought to be well acquainted with 
their habits, likes and dislikes, and success can be 
attained only by selecting types that will succeed in 
the different places where they can be planted. When 
making plantations the main object should be to get 
as natural an effect as possible. Care should be 
taken not to plant the bulbs in straight lines, curves 
or circles. Most of the common bulbs are so cheap 
they should be planted in large masses, the aim be- 
ing to obtain color in such quantity as to prove effec- 
tive when seen from a distance. 

Bulbous plants store up plant food which enables 
them to pass a season in a dormant state in the arid 
regions of the world or else pass a season of rest 
buried in the ground where the winters are long and 
severe. The majority of bulbous plants have their 
origin in South Africa, Japan and America. We 
grow more from South Africa, known as "Cape 



110 THE GARDEN BEAUTIFUL 

bulbs," than from any other one place. We also have 
a considerable number of natives that are worthy of 
a place in any garden, especially in those of all loyal 
Californians. 

In arranging our bulbous border it will be very 
satisfactory to arrange them by themselves, select- 
ing varieties which give a continuity of bloom 
throughout the year. A well selected collection of 
bulbous plants will give us a great deal of satisfac- 
tion, and though the original cost is greater than 
that of seeds, when we take into consideration the 
increase in number and value each year, it will read- 
ily be seen that the cost is more apparent than real. 
It is far better to select a considerable number of one 
species which are known to do well than to select a 
single specimen of a large number of sorts. 

What To Grow 

Agapanthus umbellatus from South Africa with 
large umbels of blue flowers is most desirable and 
flowers during summer. Good companions to the 
agapanthus are the tritomas, or kniphofias, known 
as the red-hot pokers ; a mass of these brilliant torch- 
like blooms is very striking, and they are good, per- 
sistent bloomers. Of late years we have had some 
fine horticultural varieties of red-hot pokers sent to 
us from Europe. 

The amaryllis and hippeastrums should be used 
in considerable quantity as they do remarkably well 
with us. The varieties of Amaryllis belladonna, both 
major and minor, Hippeastrum vittata with its hy- 
brids, and the nearly allied Sprekelia formosissima, 
do well. In planting them barely cover the bulbs 
with soil and do not disturb. 

Everyone having a shady corner in the garden, 
with a light, well-drained soil, should grow a few 



IN CALIFORNIA 111 

cyclamen, "shooting stars," or "Persian violets," as 
they are variously called. Except for a short season 
during the heated spell they bloom more continu- 
ously than other bulbous plants. 

The freesia is a good dwarf bulb doing well in 
clumps or borders. It is a good plan to dig them 
after they have ripened, six weeks or two months 
after last rain, and plant out again in September or 
October. Care should be taken to see that you get 
pure whites rather than the gray, washy whites. 

A most interesting and satisfactory group of 
plants are the day lilies, hemerocallis, and splendidly 
do they thrive in California; indeed no garden of 
any pretentions is complete without them. Few 
plants we grow have such a long blooming season, 
and none in the family are more easily grown. It 
is regrettable that the range of color is not greater, 
running from a pale yellow to a deep bronze-orange. 

Tritonias, or montbretias, are good summer flow- 
ering bulbs and very effective when arranged in 
clumps of six or eight bulbs a few inches apart or 
planted in large masses. When they get too thick, 
which is generally about every third year, the bulbs 
should be thinned out, as they do not flower so well 
when crowded. They come in all shades from pale 
yellow to crimson. 

Every year adds to the list many devotees of the 
tuberous begonia. This section of begonias should 
really be called the flowering begonias for the reason 
that the flowers surpass in size any other section of 
the family. They come in every color and shade 
except the blues and are in many forms, single, 
semi-double and double. 

The canna is another very satisfactory plant and 
with good cultivation and thinning out it can be 
left in the ground. Clumps should be divided and 



112 THE GARDEN BEAUTIFUL 

reset occasionally as they deteriorate when too much 
crowded. No class of plants in late years has been 
so much improved as has the canna. 

One of the most effective plants that go to make 
up the tropical garden is the crinum, often dubbed 
"spider lily" because in many species the petals are 
long and slender, giving the flower a slight resem- 
blance to a huge spider. Not all, however, have 
these attenuated blossoms; some species have 
flowers of a shape similar to those of the amaryllis 
or belladonna lily. 

The oxalis, found in several colors, makes a fine 
carpet and winter blooming plant which is exceed- 
ingly easy to grow. In fact, it prefers neglect. 
Oxalis varies greatly, both in foliage and color of 
flower, and is not sufficiently appreciated in Cali- 
fornia. 

The aroids, or order Aroideae, is represented here 
by callas, elephant's ears, Jack-in-the-pulpit, mon- 
steras, philodendrons and many other plants both 
tropical and hardy. The callas comprise several 
genera and are generally known as white, yellow, 
pink, green, black, or spotted callas. They are in 
botany, richardias, arums, dracunculus, amorpho- 
phallus, sauratum, etc. One who has a full collec- 
tion of aroids has a group of plants nearly as curi- 
ous as the tribe of cactus. 

Our native California bulbs should not be over- 
looked ; we have many species of fine lilies, Mariposa, 
or butterfly lilies, brodiaeas, or wild hyacinths. 

Dahlias and Their Culture 

Few cultivated plants have such a wide range of 
colors as the dahlia. It is one of the old-fashioned, 
practical flowers that has been improved much of 
late years. Those who have seen only the round, 



IN CALIFORNIA 113 

stiff blooms of the old form will hardly recognize it 
in the unique, artistic and showy blooms of the 
"cactus" and decorative types. They are both sin- 
gle and double and in all shades. The old stiff forms 
have given way to loose, fantastic shapes. New ir- 
regular and esthetic varieties now originated and 
being introduced have redeemed the dahlia and 
made it one of the most popular garden flowers. 
Every conceivable color and shade of color from 
pure white to almost black is now represented. 

Not all dahlias require like treatment, and in 
some situations and soils a few will be found to 
behave rather indifferently. It is best to grow a 
wide range for the first two years and at the end 
of that time discard those that do not produce abun- 
dantly and satisfactorily. It is well to make two 
or three plantings of dahlias if you succeed in hold- 
ing the roots dormant until quite late in the spring. 
Often the season has much to do with excellence 
of blossom, and if you have planted all at once, the 
whole lot may turn out poorly. Dahlias are gross 
feeders and should be well supplied with food and 
drink, more especially from the time the buds show. 
From this time until blooming season is over they 
must never suffer for water. Planted in March 
they will bloom profusely and continuously from 
June till November. Any kind of soil suits them 
provided it is moist and rich. Plant the roots about 
six inches deep. When the shoots appear break off 
all but the strongest one. When this has grown four 
or five inches high pinch out the top or end — it will 
soon branch out — after which fill in around the plant 
with well-rotted manure. Treated in this way they 
will grow strong and sturdy and resist high winds. 
If you wish the finest flowers disbud freely, pinching 
out all the buds except one on each stem. The im- 



114 THE GARDEN BEAUTIFUL 

provement in size and beauty of the blossoms more 
than repays the extra trouble. If you wish ordinary 
dahlias only, water and feed freely and let them 
grow as they will, staking and tying them if they 
are in danger of breaking down. 

Hippeastrums 

These gorgeous flowers, usually called amaryllis, 
are unsurpassed among bulbous plants either for 
size or richness of color. California hybridizers 
have produced the finest in the world and have 
received the congratulations and plaudits of the 
leading growers both at home and in foreign lands. 

The flowers range in color from a pure white 
ground color with light or heavy markings of blush, 
rose, pink and red, to striped and mottled combina- 
tions of white with red, scarlet, crimson and ma- 
roon; also in the latter colors in "selfs" or but a 
single color in each flower. The newer sorts have 
no tinge of green either in the throat or on the re- 
verse side and all are overlaid with a satiny sheen or 
luster that grows brighter as the colors deepen. 

The shape of the flower is a spreading, blunt- 
pointed star, with overlapping petals, in some cases 
revolute, or rolling backward at the tips, vastly su- 
perior to the old type. The flowers are also of 
enormous size, occasionally attaining ten inches in 
diameter, with a half-dozen blossoms on one giant 
stem three feet in height. They are of the easiest 
possible culture and thrive in any rich soil in a 
sunny exposure or are splendid subjects for pot 
culture, vigor and number of blooms increasing with 
age. 

For these bulbs the soil should be enriched with 
a liberal quantity of decomposed manure most thor- 
oughly mixed with the soil by spading, respading 



IN CALIFORNIA 115 

and raking until the surface is well pulverized. 
Such work will repay for time and trouble in blos- 
soms of superior size and color. Plant in a sunny 
position, so that the top of the bulb just shows 
through the soil. When growth begins irrigate 
heavily and frequently and keep the soil moist at 
all times until the flowers have been cut or have 
died. When the buds appear the color of the flowers 
may be maintained in richest hues by a slight shad- 
ing from the sun. Cheesecloth or even thin burlap, 
if not too close to the flowers, will insure sufficient 
protection and brilliant colors. In California the 
better practice is to leave the bulbs three years 
undisturbed, after which they may be divided and 
replanted, giving one an ever-increasing stock of 
the most showy garden flowers grown. 

Lilies 

Among flowering bulbs the lily has no rival, and 
it is a question if its beauty is surpassed by any 
family of flowers. A majority of our best garden 
sorts come from western Asia, China and Burma, 
while Japan and other islands furnish a great many. 
There are about 2000 species known and about one- 
half of them have been in cultivation. All seem to 
be natives of the north temperate zone. South Af- 
rica, which might aptly be called "the land of bulbs," 
contains no members of the genus lilium. 

Lilies always look best when massed or planted 
in clumps and are quite in their natural position 
if planted along a shrub border with a background 
of other vegetation. Plant in a deeply-worked soil, 
and if this is heavy it would be better to lighten it 
with sand and well-rotted manure. While lilies need 
plenty of water the drainage should be good. The 
bulbs should be five inches below the ground line. 
Avoid fresh manures. 



116 THE GARDEN BEAUTIFUL 

A variety of soils is necessary to success if a large 
general collection is to be cultivated, though a light 
soil is better than heavy for the sorts most commonly 
grown, even if it contains some gravel. No general 
culture can be given to fit all kinds, but the directions 
for care which we give will strike a good average 
treatment. 

It is a good plan to put a handful of fine sharp 
sand under all bulbs planted in the fall, for it les- 
sens the chances of decay and allows the roots a 
better start. In the case of lily bulbs it is also a 
good plan to drop some sand on top of the bulb; it 
is much better to fill the interstices between the 
scales with sand than to have them full of soil con- 
taining decaying vegetable matter. 

Lilium superbum will thrive in a very heavy soil ; 
L. tigrinum will do in any, while the following are 
adapted to light soils: auratum, chalcedonicum, 
candidum, longiflorum and the varieties of specio- 
sum. Among the best sorts to grow are : auratum, 
the gold-banded lily of Japan, white with bands of 
yellow and spots of purple ; candidum, the Madonna 
lily from southern Europe ; longiflorum variety exim- 
ium; Lilium Harrisii, the Bermuda or Easter lily, 
from China and Japan; speciosum variety rubrum 
from Japan; tigrinum from China and Japan, the 
tiger lily of old-fashioned gardens, though the vari- 
ety splendens of the tiger lily is far better than the 
old type, having large, nodding, bright red flowers 
freely spotted with large purplish spots; superbum, 
the American Turk's cap, which grows wild in the 
eastern half of this country; and many of our na- 
tives are well worthy of cultivation. The most pop- 
ular Californian lily in the eastern states is L. 
Washingtonianum, and the one common throughout 



IN CALIFORNIA 117 

the state, Lilium Humboldtii, would prove a valuable 
addition to any collection. 

Gladioli 

None of the old garden favorites have stood the 
test of time better or have kept up to a more satis- 
factory standard than the gladioli, and today they 
are more popular than at the time of their introduc- 
tion. In all parts of the earth specialists are striv- 
ing for new colors, forms, habits, etc., but in the 
meantime the good old garden strains have not been 
forgotten, and we have today a really gorgeous col- 
lection of color easily within the reach of all. 

Gladioli are not particular as to soil, thriving 
fairly well in any, and they are just as cosmopolitan 
regarding climate. In general they seem to thrive 
best in light, friable, sandy loam, though in such a 
soil frequent cultivation and irrigation will insure 
success. The incorporation of well-rotted stable 
manure and wood ashes will go far toward making 
a strong growth with flowers of good size and tex- 
ture. The application of a fertilizer strong in nitro- 
gen caused the author's gladioli to run up to six 
feet in height, making staking necessary, and pro- 
duced a succulent growth quite lacking in firmness. 
A lot planted two weeks later, with vegetable ashes 
only applied, produced a fine dark green growth, 
very sturdy in habit and less than half as tall as 
the first lot. Plant your bulbs early as possible for 
the main crop — January is best — and for later plant- 
ings choose each time those farthest started into 
new growth, though best results are obtained by 
planting a month before the shoots will start. Put 
bulbs at least four inches deep in soil. Copious 
waterings at regular intervals are necessary. 

Everybody loves to have plants that originated, 



118 THE GARDEN BEAUTIFUL 

after a fashion, in their own garden, and also to 
have those unlike any to be found elsewhere. Here 
is where the charm of crossing comes in. Get the 
best bulbs you can buy ; no use fooling with inferior 
parents if you desire high-grade offspring. Pull up 
and throw away any coming into flower that are 
off in color, size, form or vigor. Plant breeding 
answers to the same rules as animal breeding, so 
pick none but the best parents. When you have 
spikes coming into bloom and wish to cross, you 
had best proceed in the following manner: Take 
off, simply by picking with the fingers, the three 
stamens every blossom has, being sure that no part 
of them remains on the slender stem on which they 
hang. This emasculation should be rigidly followed 
out as early as possible every morning. The sta- 
mens of your choicest should be saved, as they con- 
tain the all-necessary pollen; the remainder may be 
thrown away. 

Every stamen has two long, narrow pollen sacs 
which may easily be found by examination. Take 
a little of the pollen on the end of a toothpick and 
put in the "throat" and "troughs" of the three- 
pronged pistil, using enough to completely choke the 
mouth of the small tube which runs down to the 
ovaries at base of blossom. We who are looking for 
scientific determinations only fertilize our blossoms 
somewhat differently; the author pollenizes each 
floret three mornings in succession and covers each 
spike with a paper sack, tying it about the stem to 
prevent insects entering the blossom. Commercial 
growers do not take these precautions except in 
case of a few "pets," and it is not strictly necessary, 
for a pistil well choked with pollen is not very liable 
to contamination by other pollen. Small sacks or 
boxes should be provided for the seeds on which is 



IN CALIFORNIA 119 

written the cross, the seed-bearing parent, the plant 
the pod is taken from, always appearing first, as: 
"America x Aphrodite'' if pods are from the first- 
named or "Aphrodite x America" if the former 
was fertilized by pollen from America. In case 
named sorts are not used they may be numbered 
thus: 46xAmerica or 22x46. It is better to pick 
seed pods from each stem as they ripen, and this 
just before they begin to split open. Six pods are 
enough for any stem to mature. In our climate we 
may sow these seeds at almost any time, though the 
spring and early summer is preferable. 

The Iris 

This flower was named from Iris, a radiant god- 
dess arrayed in garments of surpassing splendor, a 
personification of the rainbow which is a concen- 
tration of all tints, rays and coloring of beauty. 
The German iris, sometimes called the poor man's 
orchid, for the reason that it is so easily cultivated, 
is especially desirable for many locations and is 
very happy in low, wet ground, but will bloom freely 
in the common border. The varieties are almost 
numberless, and the grace and coloring of flowers 
exquisitely beautiful. 

Nearly 200 species of the iris family are known 
to botanists, and many of these are not yet known 
to commerce. This accounts for frequent announce- 
ments by dealers of "an entirely new iris." We 
have a considerable number of splendid types, and 
were the iris alone taken out of our gardens it 
would be sorely missed. The fact is that it is not 
nearly so much grown as it should be, for there is 
no member of the family but is desirable for even 
the best of gardens. Of late years so many new 
species have been introduced and such a great num- 



120 THE GARDEN BEAUTIFUL 

ber of hybrids and crosses obtained by the plant 
breeder that today a large and varied collection of 
iris will rival in beauty and interest that of any 
family in the plant kingdom. In German iris al- 
most every color but a pure, deep yellow may be 
obtained in the local market. We have iris known 
as English, German, Spanish, Japanese, alpine, and 
numbers of others with less comprehensive geo- 
graphical names, yet not less beautiful or desirable. 
All are happily very cosmopolitan in their require- 
ments, so that no one need fear failure in their 
culture. 

Moraea iridioides is the name of a beautiful flower 
of the iris family, close to the true irises, from 
which it differs but in floral organs. The ground 
color is pure white, and the narrow peTals have a 
midrib of deep yellow, while the broader set are 
delicately etched through the middle with chocolate 
brown. Unlike the true irises this plant blooms at 
any season. 

Dutch or Holland Bulbs 

The principal Dutch bulbs grown in California 
are hyacinths, narcissi, and tulips. This class is 
called Dutch bulbs, not because they are natives of 
Holland, but because nearly all these bulbs are prop- 
agated and grown in Holland. Both the climate 
and soil in Holland appear to be remarkably favor- 
able to the growth of this class of bulbs. The soil 
where they are grown is sandy, with water a short 
distance below the surface, so that the plants are 
practically secure from drouth. Shipments of bulbs 
are made in autumn from Holland to all parts of 
the world. We usually receive them about October, 
and they are ready to be started for blooming as 
soon as received. The planting should not be long 
delayed, that is, it must be done during the fall 



IN CALIFORNIA 121 

months. Many people see flowers of bulbous plants 
in the spring and send to dealers to purchase the 
bulbs, only to be disappointed, not understanding 
that they must be planted in the fall. 

The soil for bulbs should be in good condition, 
enriched with well-rotted stable manure, or, in ab- 
sence of that, with some good commercial fertilizer. 
The bulbs will bloom even in poor soil, and hya- 
cinths and narcissus are frequently bloomed in 
water, but in good soil there is better growth of 
foliage, and this is favorable to finer flowers. 

Pot single bulbs of hyacinth in four-inch pots, or 
three or four in a six-inch pot. Set the bulb so that 
when the soil is filled in the top will be just at the 
surface. Pot the narcissi in the same manner. 
After the bulbs are potted, water and set away in 
a cool, dark place for some weeks, where they will 
make roots, before bringing them into the light and 
warmth where they will rapidly develop blooming 
spikes. Potted bulbs that have been set away in 
the dark should be looked over every few days, and 
any pots that need it watered, as the soil should not 
be allowed to get quite dry. When the plants are 
brought to the light and begin to grow vigorously 
they may be watered freely. 

For growing in water they are usually put in a 
shallow bowl and kept in place with pebbles packed 
about them. A six-inch glass dish or bowl will 
easily hold three bulbs. It is better to keep the base 
of the bulb just above the surface rather than in it, 
as in the latter case the bulbs will sometimes decay. 
Narcissi are greedy for water, and this is one rea- 
son this method is adopted, though more easily 
grown in soil if abundance of water is supplied. 
Fertilizer for Bulbs 

It is usually conceded that of all special fertilizers 



122 THE GARDEN BEAUTIFUL 

those found best for potatoes will do best for a 
general mixed stock of what is usually termed 
"bulbs." One carrying four per cent of nitrogen, 
eight per cent of phosphoric acid and ten per cent 
of potash is made as follows : nitrate of soda, thirty 
pounds ; sulphate of ammonia, twenty pounds ; tank- 
age, 100 pounds ; acid phosphate, 250 pounds ; muri- 
ate of potash, 100 pounds; making a total of 500 
pounds. Small gardens may easily use this formula 
by cutting off one cypher from each figure and re- 
ducing the total weight to fifty pounds. Use little 
but often. 





THE CHINESE ROSE, WHITE BANKSIA 
Rosa Banksiae var, alba-plena 



CHAPTER X 
THE ROSE GARDEN 

The rose is the most universally beloved of flowers 
and for all time has been the chief floral embellish- 
ment in the gardens of both castle and cottage, shed- 
ding its delightful fragrance impartially over prince 
and pauper and commanding the admiration of 
every enlightened people. It is found in a wild 
state in all parts of the earth, and cultivated varie- 
ties are given an equally wide dissemination. 

Types of Roses 

The mosses are not much grown in California, 
and in the southern end of the state are seldom 
seen, being chiefly noted for their scarcity of flowers. 
The varieties are usually known by their names 
specifying the type, as : Pink Moss, Glory of Mosses, 
etc. 

The noisettes are better known to us, though only 
in climbing sorts. They are abundant bloomers, 
bearing flowers in clusters. The better-known sorts 
are: Cloth of Gold, Lamarque, Madam Alfred Car- 
riere, Marechal Niel, and Reve d'Or. 

The Bourbons and Bengals are not universally 
popular. The former is extremely variable in type, 
generally bearing light-colored flowers, while the 
latter, often called Chinas, are small, compact grow- 
ers, bearing myriads of fragrant crimson flowers, 
and make good hedge plants. Examples are : Agrip- 
pina, Grus an Teplitz, Souvenir de Malmaison 
(pink Bourbon) , and James Sprunt, a good climbing 
sort. 



124 THE GARDEN BEAUTIFUL 

The polyanthas or "buttonhole" roses are small, 
very free bloomers, bearing flowers of most exqui- 
site form. The ones best known are Cecile Brunner 
and its climbing variety, Baby Rambler, Crimson 
Rambler, and Yellow Rambler. 

The teas are an old-time, free-blooming, "cranky" 
type, their luxuriance of flowers, delicate tints, and 
fine forms making them very popular. They grow 
less vigorously than the hybrid teas, but many of 
them will thrive in soils too light and sandy for 
hybrid perpetuals. Some of the better-known and 
time-proven are: Bride, Bridesmaid, Dean Hole, 
Duchesse de Brabant, General McArthur, Laurette, 
Papa Gontier, Peace, Reine Marie Henriette, and 
Maman Cochet. 

The hybrid teas are much stronger in growth than 
the teas, occupying in this respect a position mid- 
way 'twixt the teas and the hybrid perpetuals, hav- 
ing the free-flowering habit of the former, combined 
with the rich colors and general vigor of the latter. 
Among them are: Caroline Testout, Kaiserin Au- 
gusta Victoria, Killarney, La France, the first of 
this type, 1867, and Madam Abel Chatenay. 

Hybrid perpetuals or remontants are easily dis- 
tinguished by luxuriance of foliage, vigor of growth 
and large size of flowers. They are not so exacting 
as other types, thriving with less care, yet equally 
responsive to good treatment. Their range in color 
is great, comprising all the shades and tints found 
in the other classes. They also need more summer 
rest and may be more heavily pruned. They are 
the best for those who can bestow but little care 
on their gardens. Some of the more common are: 
American Beauty, Frau Karl Druschki, Magna 
Charta, Paul Neyron and Ulrich Brunner. We have 
a few of other types, such as briar, prairie, rugosa, 



IN CALIFORNIA 125 

wichuriana, but they are little known and less 
grown. 

Soils for Roses 

The hybrid teas or the hybrid perpetuals thrive 
best in heavy soils, the Bourbon class do well in any, 
but the teas and noisettes seem to produce best if 
the soil is light or somewhat sandy. It is essential 
in all cases that drainage be good, and for this rea- 
son some rosarians of experience remove all soil 
from the beds to the depth of two feet, pick up the 
bottom of the pit as deeply as possible, scatter a 
little manure and sand over the surface and replace 
the soil, mixing it as it goes back with sand and 
thoroughly rotted stable manure, being careful to 
make a good job of the mixing process. A great 
deal of such work is done in England, some in the 
eastern part of our country, and but little by our 
impatient Californians. 

In light soils there is little doubt but own-root 
roses give best satisfaction over a long term of 
years, the necessity for budding keeping pace with 
the increasing heaviness, but, when one reaches 
adobe or clay, it is better either to give up pure teas 
and plant hybrids only, or convert the soil for these 
into one of much lighter texture. It therefore must 
be apparent that if you grow many roses it will be 
found better to keep the classes separated. When 
purchasing mixed sorts of roses for heavy soils it 
is doubtless better to get them budded, for few 
have enough in number to sharply discriminate be- 
tween the classes as to their specific needs. It is 
well to reiterate that all roses do best in soils that 
have been deeply stirred and well worked over. 
Summer Treatment 

In California roses need the same amount of rest 
that nature gives them where winter's cold renders 



126 THE GARDEN BEAUTIFUL 

all plant life dormant for several months each year. 
We seldom get good roses in summer for the reason 
that the atmosphere is too hot and too dry, and after 
the heavy flower crop of winter and spring the 
plants need a period of rest in which to recuperate 
their vitality. 

In the warmer parts of the state one may have 
autumn and holiday roses if water is not given at 
all from the last day of June to not later than the 
first day of October, preferably pruning and water- 
ing for the first time during the closing days of 
September. If autumn roses are preferred it mat- 
ters not if leaves turn yellow or fall and bark on 
the smaller and younger growth becomes shriveled; 
the plants are not necessarily distressed by such 
treatment, for the growth manifesting such change 
must all be cut away in any event. If rest is the 
only end in view, the plants need not for so long be 
deprived of water, or rest may be begun later, or a 
little water be given every month. In this case 
pruning is delayed until winter. 

All this presupposes that the rose beds are where 
they may be kept under proper control. If the 
plants are in the lawn, either singly or in beds, good 
roses in large numbers will not result. Why anyone 
will consider rose plants for fundamental landscape 
embellishment is very hard to understand, for rose 
bushes severely pruned and soil in constant cultiva- 
tion or heavily mulched do not add to the finish 
of the landscape. There are other and more fitting 
places for growing rose bushes than may be found 
in any lawn. After being driven through a couple 
of years by almost daily watering of the surround- 
ing grass, and allowed no periods of rest, that rose 
plant is indeed hardy that will still return a boun- 
tiful crop of flowers. If you need shrubs for the 



IN CALIFORNIA 127 

lawn the markets contain a goodly variety of suit- 
able material, coming as many of them do from 
lands where ordinary lawn conditions largely 
prevail. 

Winter Treatment 

In the last section the reader was told that if he 
lived in a practically frostless locality he might 
have early winter or holiday roses, and how best to 
get them. It was also stated that if conditions were 
less favorable severe pruning should be left until 
winter. The latter treatment will be found better 
for California in general. 

In the colder sections, where very sharp frosts 
prevail for a time, roses may be pruned in Decem- 
ber, for low temperatures stagnate the flow of sap 
and ripen the wood so that early pruning is admis- 
sible, but as dormancy under such conditions is pro- 
longed there is no necessity for pruning until early 
in the new year. 

In the warmer sections, as in the southern third 
of the state, the bay region about San Francisco 
and Oakland, and in various circumscribed citrus 
belts, the pruning process is better left until Janu- 
ary. You will then get a crop of fine blossoms from 
early spring until the middle of summer, for roses 
so treated will begin blooming in February or 
March, according to the weather, and continue till 
July unless spells of very hot weather curtail the 
bloom. 

Mildew on Roses 

The most serious trouble prevalent with roses dur- 
ing winter, and somewhat at other times, is mildew ; 
and this may be present from one or several causes. 
It is sometimes due entirely to unfavorable weather 
conditions, but in such cases it attacks only sorts 



128 THE GARDEN BEAUTIFUL 

unsuited to the climate, weakly varieties, or those 
in a poor state of health. It is usually present as 
the result of extreme conditions — too wet — too dry 
— too hot — too cold, etc. As an example, many 
roses, especially the teas, will be attacked by mildew 
whenever there is a stagnation of water at the roots ; 
that is, more water than the plant can immediately 
appropriate or make use of. 

The more common way in which mildew is en- 
couraged in California is about as follows: Roses 
are planted in a bed fully exposed to the sun, or, if 
climbers, are planted on the south side of a build- 
ing. All day the air is hot and dry. In the evening 
when "the boss" comes home from work they are 
watered, which treatment but increases the chilli- 
ness of the night air, making conditions precisely 
the reverse from those which obtain throughout the 
day. These utmost extremes — hot and dry by day, 
cold and wet by night — are too great to expect any 
but the hardiest rose to withstand. 

The proper treatment would tend to equalize 
rather than accentuate these extremes. Water in 
the morning, early ; you will then find the surround- 
ing atmosphere to be somewhat moist all day, but 
before the chill of night creeps in the plant and the 
sun and air will have absorbed nearly or quite all 
of the moisture and the air during the night will in 
consequence be comparatively warm and dry. This 
latter treatment, if the surface soil is kept stirred 
and the drainage is good, will in a majority of cases 
ward off attacks of mildew which, but for such pre- 
cautions, might seriously injure the roses. 

Propagation of Roses 

There are three methods of propagating or in- 
creasing the number of roses ; by seeds, by cuttings, 



IN CALIFORNIA 129 

and by budding or grafting. To all who are in any 
wise grounded in knowledge of plants it is evident 
that growing from seeds is but a harmless pastime 
and is not indulged in by the amateur with any hope 
of profit, for out of a thousand seedlings there may 
not be one of any commercial value. 

Own-root roses, or those grown from cuttings, are 
in the very strong-growing sorts the most glorious 
and permanently satisfactory of all. But there are 
so many fine sorts that are either weakly or very 
ordinary on their own roots that the amateur who 
purchases had better procure budded roses, unless 
he be well posted on the specific needs of the varie- 
ties he most desires. Grafting in effect is similar 
to budding. If skillfully done it may be slightly 
superior, but for reasons not necessary to state it 
is not so practical for commercial purposes. 

PROPAGATION BY CUTTINGS 

From November 1 to January is the proper sea- 
son for propagating roses from cuttings, for the 
reason that during the cool weather of the rainy 
season the cuttings will callous, continue the proc- 
ess, and root throughout the winter, starting top 
growth in late winter. Cuttings taken later do not 
have time to get calloused and rooted before active 
top growth is induced by warm weather, and the 
result is comparatively weakly plants. 

Use well-cured wood, full of dormant eyes, from 
the diameter of a lead pencil up to a half -inch, con- 
taining three or four eyes or buds which will make 
them four to six inches in length. Cut the lower 
end from a quarter-inch below a bud, through the 
cane on about a forty-five degree angle, using a very 
sharp knife having a thin blade. Cut the top end 
a half -inch above a bud; there is no need of super- 



130 THE GARDEN BEAUTIFUL 

fluous wood at either end. Select clean, straight 
wood only, from vigorous, healthy plants. 

Insert these cuttings, all but the top inch or so, 
in a bed of sharp washed river sand of at least 
four inches depth. Do not force cuttings down into 
this damp, firm sand or you will bruise the smoothly- 
cut end. Either make a narrow channel across the 
bed with an old table knife turned slightly to open 
sand to width of cutting, or with a piece of lath or 
wood properly fashioned or a sharpened stick of 
greater diameter make a hole for each cutting. 

Press the sand firmly about cuttings and wet down 
well to thoroughly firm the sand, and never after- 
ward allow it to become dry. If sand is not avail- 
able, use the lightest and sandiest soil you can get 
and as free from decaying vegetable matter as pos- 
sible. A cold frame with a cloth or burlap cover 
is ideal, as cuttings should at first be kept from 
sun, and until well started in roots, from strong 
winds. Later in the season when a vigorous young 
root system is assured the cuttings may be grad- 
ually exposed until full sunshine is given them. The 
average amateur would better use a box in the 
shade and protection of a building, keeping it at 
first in the coolest, darkest place available, and well 
protected, dragging it into light and warmth as the 
rooting process develops. Dry off box in late fall 
until roses are semi-dormant and plant out. Spring 
propagation, practiced by some, is accomplished by 
same process. 

BUDDING AND GRAFTING 

In budding and grafting the work is usually done 
in growths of the same diameter and condition as 
that recommended for cuttings. Grafting is so un- 
common that the process need not be described. It 



IN CALIFORNIA 



131 




132 THE GARDEN BEAUTIFUL 

should be accomplished in the spring. Budding may- 
be done either in spring or fall, or even in summer, if 
plants are where temperature and general conditions 
may be controlled. 

When the bud has been cut, very carefully pull out 
the woody chip inside. Quickly place this in a T- 
shape (or inverted T) cut, made previously, bark- 
deep only, in the stock plant to be budded. Raise the 
bark on one side of the incision with the wedge- 
shaped end of the budding knife, put in one side of 
your bud shield and then do likewise for the other 
side. Bind the stem both above and below the bud 
with raffia, narrow strips of stout muslin or very 
soft, coarse twine or candlewick. When the bud 
shows signs of starting, an average time of about 
three weeks, loosen the binding and retie. If prop- 
erly loosened and tied no other restrictive measures 
need be used and the binding may be taken off when 
the bud has grown so that the stem of the stock above 
the bud may be cut off and the full sap supply be 
allowed to flow into the new bud. 

ROSES FROM SEEDS 

If the rose hips or apples are fresh the pulp will 
need to be washed from the seeds. The latter may 
then be sown in a mixture of sand, leaf mold and 
loam, covering about a half inch. After sowing keep 
cool and moist. The soil must have good drainage 
yet not be allowed to dry. As the seedlings come 
up, pot them off or transplant to other boxes. Do 
not be impatient if none appear for weeks, and after 
waiting a reasonable time prepare a new seed bed, 
put the soil and seeds in a sieve, wash the former 
through and sow the latter again before they dry 
and cover with clean sand. Usually a good crop of 
seedlings will result. 



IN CALIFORNIA 133 

Pruning the Roses 
It is difficult to lay down hard and fast rules for 
pruning rose bushes for the reason that each bush 
presents a distinct and individual problem, and much 
study and experience are necessary before one is 
fully competent to prune all classes and kinds of 
roses intelligently. However, a few general rules 
may be given. 

First cut the whole top off at not less than two 
feet high on good strong bushes established for a 
few years. This allows you to get at all parts of the 
bush. Cut out small twiggy growth that is of less 
diameter than a lead pencil. Next remove all canes 
which grow crosswise, that would tend to chafe up- 
right canes or interfere with their free development. 
Do not leave a group of canes congested in the 
center, but aim to leave center of bushes free and 
open. Do not prune young roses severely ; the first 
year take out weak, thin growth only. 

The aim should be to leave a strong, healthy 
framework of large, vigorous canes, few in number 
and standing well apart, the larger ones left longer 
than the lesser ones by a few inches, but seldom is it 
well to leave even the strongest more than two feet 
high. It matters little if no foliage is left, for none 
is needed. When finally cutting back the few big 
canes left (which may number from two to seven) 
it is better to cut a half inch above an outside eye 
or bud. This will tend to spread the plant and avoid 
crowded centers where neither light nor air may 
enter. 

As a rule climbers need but little pruning, and 
annual bloomers such as the Banksias, Cherokees, 
Glazenwood, etc., should be cut back immediately 
after blooming, if any pruning is necessary, for 



134 THE GARDEN BEAUTIFUL 

they then make the wood that bears the next season's 
flowers, and if pruning is too long deferred the next 
flower crop will be indeed light. 

Those who persist in pruning without protection 
to the hands or without the heaviest of gloves will 
receive many painful punctures and lacerations of 
the skin. Get a few corrosive sublimate tablets from 
a drug store, dissolve one in a pint of water and 
bathe the hands therein for several minutes and all 
pain will cease at once. This is an excellent anti- 
septic but deadly if taken internally, so be careful 
of both bath and tablets. 

Fertilizers for Roses 

Immediately following pruning, if you have wood 
ashes, apply a liberal amount and turn them lightly 
under the soil or give a good deep raking to thor- 
oughly incorporate them with the surface soil. Good 
hardwood ashes carry one-fifth lime, besides a con- 
siderable amount of potash. Coal ashes have no 
nutritive value. If ashes are not available give a 
light sprinkling of air-slaked lime and rake in. This 
application should precede manuring by a month if 
possible, but is beneficial if foremost by but one day. 
In small gardens some put ten pounds of lime in a 
tub, fill it with water, allow lime to settle until water 
is clear and then apply the latter to the plants. It 
will not prove too strong for any rose. The settled 
lime may be scattered elsewhere in the garden. 

There is no question but that thoroughly decayed 
horse manure is the best garden fertilizer for roses 
or other plants. Next comes cow manure. In light 
sandy soils it is of greater physical value than in 
heavy soils. Fresh sheep manure should be used 
with caution, as it is strong, and poultry manure is 



IN CALIFORNIA 135 

still stronger and must be used sparingly, though 
one of the best rose stimulants known. 

Commercial fertilizers, when properly used, an- 
swer every requirement of the rose so far as food 
is concerned, but do not aid the physical texture of 
the soil. Pure bone meal, either raw or acidulated, 
is highly beneficial and may be used heavily without 
harm to the plants. It is best used with nitrate of 
soda. Two or three applications of potash through- 
out the season are better than a single one, and 
muriate is a good form in which to apply it. 

One expert rose grower sows the following mix- 
ture at the rate of a pound and a half to every ten 
feet square (not ten square feet, but ten by ten) : 
Mix superphosphate of lime, twelve parts; nitrate 
of potash, ten parts; sulphate of magnesia, two 
parts ; sulphate of iron, one part ; sulphate of potash, 
eight parts. The author has never tried this chem- 
ical recipe. 

Whatever else is fed to the roses, stable manure 
should be spaded in deeply once a year before 
growth commences in winter. Then pulverize the 
surface soil, rake smooth and apply a very heavy 
mulch of strawy horse manure when active growth 
commences, and water through this, being sure that 
each watering is sufficient to wet down below the 
roots, and apply only as often as required. The 
heavy mulch will prevent weeds growing, keep the 
soil cool during the heat of summer, and materially 
prolong the flowering period. 

The Best Sorts 

Owing to the wide diversity of personal taste, and 
the variations of climate, soils, temperature, etc., 
throughout the state, it would hardly do to recom- 
mend any restricted list of roses as the very best 



136 THE GARDEN BEAUTIFUL 

sorts for any or all to grow. Therefore, the lists 
herein given consist of one dozen each of the four 
recognized standards of color ; roses that the author 
has either grown in his own garden or closely 
studied in the gardens of others, and believed by 
him to be the best of those commonly for sale 
throughout California. They are listed alphabet- 
ically ; no preferences shown. The letters following 
the names indicate the class to which each belongs, 
thus: T., tea; H. T., hybrid tea; H. P., hybrid per- 
petual; B. or C, Bengal or China; N., noisette; Poly., 
polyantha. 

WHITES 

The White La France, properly Augustine Gui- 
noisseau, is a nearly white hybrid tea, carrying a 
slight tint of fawn color. The latest first-class white, 
the finest of all, is Frau Karl Druschki, H. P. Ivory, 
a tea, is pure white and therein somewhat belies its 
name, for Kaiserin Augusta Victoria, H. P., is the 
best ivory-white. Mabel Morrison, H. P., is a fine 
old rose of snow-white, sometimes faintly tinged 
with pink. Molly Sharman-Crawford, H. T., is one 
of the newer roses which proves pure white at all 
times, and this is likewise true of Niphetos, a tea 
rose, doing well in shaded positions. Perle von 
Godesburg, H. T., is creamy white, tinted with yel- 
low, in all other ways closely resembling the Kais- 
erin. The Bride, a pure white tea, is of somewhat 
weakly habit except under ideal conditions, and will 
thrive in partial shade. The Queen is another pure 
white tea and more robust than The Bride, as a 
queen should be. White Killarney, H. T., a pure 
white sport from Killarney, is equally as good as 
its distinguished parent. White Maman Cochet, T., 
is always suffused with pink in the outer petals. 



IN CALIFORNIA 137 

PINKS 

Belle Siebrecht, H. T., is a long-pointed rosy-pink ; 
Betty, H. T., is a large, less double, coppery rose, 
while still another shade, shell-pink, is shown in 
Clara Watson, also a hybrid tea. Killarney, H. T., 
is flesh-pink, slightly suffused with shell-pink or 
silvery-pink. Madam Abel Chatenay, H. T., is called 
a shell-pink, tinged on the outer petals with salmon ; 
a splendid robust producer of perfect blossoms ; the 
author's better half considers it the best rose in her 
garden of a hundred sorts. Madam Leon Pain is 
another shell-pink, salmon-tinted, that is a close 
rival of the last-named. Mile. Cecile Brunner, the 
famous pink buttonhole rose of the polyantha class, 
scarcely needs an introduction, and even the small- 
est garden should contain one. Paul Neyron, H. P., 
an old-time favorite of deep rose color, is known as 
our largest rose. Maman Cochet, a tea, is a very 
free-flowering, deep rosy-pink, nodding because of a 
slender stem. Souv. de President Carnot, H. T., is 
salmon-pink, shading to rose on the outer petals, a 
delicate, soft shade of color. The Lyon, H. T., a 
rosy-flesh, shaded with salmon and yellow, is a won- 
der in color but thrives better in the bay region of 
San Francisco than in the drier air of Los Angeles, 
therefore a superb coast rose in the south. One of 
the later claimants for popular favor is William 
Shean, H. T., deep pink in color and one of the larg- 
est of roses. 

REDS 

One of the old China roses, Agrippina, has re- 
mained a favorite through a half -century of pub- 
licity, a rather small flower of deep crimson; while 
American Beauty relies on its name for a place in 
southern gardens; in the San Francisco region and 



138 THE GARDEN BEAUTIFUL 

northward it grows superbly. Those wishing a tiny 
crimson rose on a dwarf bush should plant a Baby 
Rambler, Poly. Edward Mawley, H. T., is a popular 
velvety crimson, still rare in California gardens. 
Gen. Jacqueminot, H. P., is an old-time, annual- 
flowering favorite of bright crimson, but a superior 
rose in all ways, of a fiery-red is Gen. MacArthur, 
at present the very best red rose. Hugh Dickson and 
J. B. Clark are two red hybrid perpetuals that in the 
south are excellent for mid- winter blooms ; of large 
size and deep color. J. L. Mock, H. T., a rather late 
introduction of bright salmony red, has rapidly at- 
tained a deserved popularity. Lady Battersea, H. 
T., is without a rival in the shade known as cherry- 
red. Magna Charta, H. P., is one of the old favor- 
ites, of one long annual season of bloom, a rose that 
in its class will doubtless never be surpassed ; a deep, 
real rosy-red. Papa Gontier, a tea, is a large, not 
very double rose of large size, superb as a bud of 
deep crimson, opening as a loose flower of deep rosy- 
pink. Ulrich Brunner, H. P., is another of the old- 
fashioned rosy-reds, with a cherry tint, that will 
ever remain a popular favorite. 

YELLOWS 

The Duchess of Wellington, H. T., though new in 
the field, is already a prime favorite, for in color it is 
rare, a saffron yellow, tinted with crimson. Franz 
Deegen, H. T., is a fine yellow tinted with orange 
and has been called the Yellow Kaiserin. George C. 
Waud, H. T., is another new rose of grand color, 
orange tinged with scarlet. Harry Kirk is still 
scarce, being recently introduced, but has become a 
standard yellow, shading to deeper in the center, 
Lady Hillingdon, a new tea, is very fine, in color an 
orange-tinted yellow. In the old lists of yellow teas 



IN CALIFORNIA 139 

Marie Von Houtte was always given and is still 
much in demand. Mrs. Aaron Ward, H. T., is a 
strikingly handsome rose of an orange shade fading 
to cream at the tips. Mrs. A. R. Waddell, another 
late hybrid tea, has the most attractive apricot 
shades of any rose grown. Perle des Jardins is an 
old favorite tea of bright straw color but is seldom a 
pronounced success in the southern end of the state. 
The yellowest rose is a title that has been bestowed 
upon Rayon d'Or, a comparative newcomer to Cali- 
fornia but one that has well sustained its reputation 
for color. Soliel d'Or, a hybrid briar, is a deep gold 
shaded with pink, marvelous in color and showy in 
the garden but not a rose for cutting. Sunburst, H. 
T., is a rather new rose having a combination of 
orange-yellow tinged with copper, shades now the 
most popular. 

Climbing Roses 

whites 

Climbing Devoniensis, a creamy white tea rose, 
tinged with blush, is more popular in the central and 
northern parts of the state than in the south. Climb- 
ing Kaiserin Augusta Victoria is but an ambitious 
sport from the bush rose bearing the same name. 
Climbing White Cochet is a new rose, tinted pink 
outside, that has satisfied all who have grown it. 
Mme. Alfred Carriere is an old-time noisette of 
creamy white, a fairly good rose everywhere. The 
White Banksia is nearly thornless, a rampant grower 
that will stretch away up a tree for sixty feet, bear- 
ing clusters of tiny, semi-double flowers. All who 
know roses are familiar with the white Cherokee, 
without which no garden is complete, its large single 
blossoms being borne in profusion early in spring. 



140 THE GARDEN BEAUTIFUL 

PINKS 
Climbing Belle Siebrecht is but a variety of the 
bush sort aspiring to higher levels; a good rose. 
Climbing Cecile Brunner's story may be told in the 
same words, as is also true of Climbing Caroline 
Testout. Dorothy Perkins is a shell-pink hybrid of 
the wichuriana class that does not mildew in places 
where this fungus seriously interferes with other 
small-flowering sorts, all of which belong to the 
polyanthas. Gainsborough is a satiny-blush hybrid 
tea that climbs vigorously and flowers fairly freely 
with blossoms of good size. The Pink Cherokee, as 
its name implies, is but a colored sport from the old- 
time favored white. A fairly good mass bloomer of 
rather weakly light pink, bearing an abundance of 
small flowers, is the German Tausenshon, meaning in 
English, thousand beauties. 

REDS 

A description of Climbing Papa Gontier may be 
found under the bush Gontier, but Climbing Souv. 
de Wootton, H. T., is far superior to the bush sort, a 
free-flowering magenta-crimson. Crimson Rambler, 
Poly., bears clusters of small flowers and is a general 
favorite where roses are not attacked by mildew. 
Francois Crousse, H. T., is the deepest in color of all 
red climbers and a most excellent sort. In the Red 
Cherokee, or Ramona, we have the jewel of the 
group. Reine Marie Henriette, H. T., is that deep 
rose climbing sort seen over all of California ; a gen- 
eral favorite. Reine Olga de Wurtemburg is a half- 
double hybrid tea that has been happily described as 
the climbing Ragged Robin. 



IN CALIFORNIA 141 

YELLOWS 

The Beauty of Glazenwood, sometimes called Gold 
of Ophir, or Fortune's Double Yellow, is an annual 
bloomer that is a marvel of color, and we will ven- 
ture to describe the shades as yellow, copper and 
rose. Celine Forestier is a light yellow noisette with 
real yellow in the central petals. Duchess de Auer- 
stadt is the yellowest of climbers, a tea rose of great 
beauty popular forty years ago and still in strong 
demand. As for Marechal Niel, the old favorite 
lemon-yellow of strong tea-like fragrance, who does 
not know it and love it? It grows but indifferently 
in dry atmospheres, but an occasional plant does 
well in all parts of the state. Reve d'Or (French for 
dream of gold), like the last, is a noisette, rather a 
yellowish buff in color and may be depended upon 
to thrive in all the Pacific Coast states. William 
Allen Richardson, of the same class, is yellow with 
an orange center. The Yellow Banksia is, except in 
color, similar in every respect to the White Banksia 
and is the more freely planted for the color is clearer 
and brighter than in the white. 

SUNSET AND COPPER TINTS 

During the past few years the range in color of 
roses has enjoyed some beautiful additions in flowers 
of sunset and copper tints. Each year finds new 
and desirable sorts in the market, but at present the 
leaders are: Mrs. A. R. Waddell, Lady Hillingdon, 
Duchess of Wellington, Juliet, Sunburst, and Mrs. 
Edward Herriott. Under widely varying conditions 
these novelties would appear to have become stand- 
ard sorts. 

Rose History 

The history of the rose family is an interesting 
one, extending back a long period of years, though 



142 THE GARDEN BEAUTIFUL 

the modern up-to-date rose is of comparatively re- 
cent origin. As an example, La France was the first 
of its type and was produced in 1867. The rose 
primarily consisted of native species less than a 
hundred in number and conceded by conservative 
botanists as comprising less than half a hundred 
species. But from these hundred or less species 
have sprung more than a thousand horticultural va- 
rieties. This large number of garden varieties rep- 
resents roses which vary most remarkably in cli- 
matic requirements so that some may be found for 
every quarter of the globe. 

It is in the temperate zones, however, that roses 
flourish, and still better in the northern hemisphere. 
It is in the same region, too, that most of the native 
species are found. Roses do not like extreme heat, 
and in the tropics few native species are found ex- 
cept well up in the cool atmosphere of the moun- 
tains. We have ample evidence that cool climates 
are preferred by the rose from the fact that England 
and the coast region of Oregon both grow finer roses 
than California, though we may pick some every 
month in the year, whereas they cannot. All the 
parents of the modern race of roses were single, 
though seldom are they seen in commerce today, and 
less in California than elsewhere. Rosa rugosa and 
R. centifolia are the wild species most commonly 
known, though occasionally an American species is 
cultivated. 



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A GARDEN GAZING GLOBE 

Landscapes in Miniature 



CHAPTER XI 
CHRYSANTHEMUM CULTURE 

No flower has ever taken a firmer hold on the affec- 
tions of all peoples than the chrysanthemum, for 
whether one travels in the Orient, Europe, our own 
country, or in the out-of-way corners of the earth, 
the all-popular 'mum is present in the gardens of 
both rich and poor, and no park or public garden is 
considered complete without it. Every year brings 
forth new forms, shades of color, habits of growth or 
other evidences of progressive development, so that 
interest in them is never allowed to wane. Never 
were such satisfactory sorts to be had as at present, 
and never was enthusiasm among the 'mum fanciers 
at a higher pitch. 

No other garden plant is accorded such varying 
treatment as the chrysanthemum, and our amateur 
gardeners grow them ranging in size from the diam- 
eter of a half-dollar to that of a large tea saucer. 
This development is wholly a matter of care; not 
throughout the year, but for a small portion thereof. 
If new plants are started every spring and given 
ordinary garden care, such as all plants usually re- 
ceive, until within sixty days of blooming, and are 
then given special treatment, the amateur may pro- 
duce just as good blooms as the professional. While 
proper treatment is not difficult, eternal vigilance is 
the price of good 'mums. 

Propagation 

Chrysanthemums may be propagated either by di- 
viding old clumps into small clumps, single shoots, or 



144 THE GARDEN BEAUTIFUL 

by rooting the tips in sand. Nearly all amateur 
growers use the old clumps year after year, or at 
most divide them and replant, though no first-class 
flowers can be produced from any except plants 
propagated from cuttings rooted early in the same 
year. Many continue with the old roots for the rea- 
son that they do not know how easily young plants 
may be propagated. Clumps that have already flow- 
ered for one or more years will, if undisturbed, send 
up vigorous young shoots, and from these should be 
propagated a stock of plants to supply the autumn 
crop of flowers. 

The latter half of March is the golden time for 
propagation, though good results may be had from 
cuttings taken from January to April. Get a box 
of six or more inches in depth, bore a few small holes 
through the bottom to insure drainage and scatter 
an inch or two of gravel, small stones, or broken pots 
over the bottom so that excess of water may easily 
percolate and escape through the numerous drainage 
holes. On top of this put four or five inches of clean 
sharp sand and water until it is soaked through. The 
young shoots of 'mums are so tender you may break 
them off if you wish, for this method is fully as good 
as any, and few but trained gardeners will cut them 
properly; for unless this is done with a very sharp 
knife, frequently wiped clean, the cuttings may be 
so injured that they will not root ere they die. Pinch 
off with thumbnail and finger, or cut with knife all 
the leaves from each slip except the tuft on the end 
and cut off the outer half of these if they are inclined 
to droop. These slips or cuttings should be three or 
four inches long and planted two inches deep in the 
sand. 

When you have broken off your slips, if you are 
an amateur, allow them to stand in fresh water until 



IN CALIFORNIA 



145 



next morning to prevent wilting during the first 
day — the most important of all days in propagation. 
Use a piece of lath or other straight edge to lay 
across the top of the box to mark lines for cuttings. 
Use an old table knife or a small thin paddle to make 
a sharp cut or groove in the sand along the straight 
edge. Insert the cuttings in this cut; never force 
them into the sand, for this will bruise the tender 
ends and induce decay. After pressing the sand 
against the cuttings, make another cut about two 
inches from the first and proceed as before. 

Use boxes small enough so that you may cover 
them with panes of glass (unless you have a glass 




GLASS-COVERED PROPAGATING BOX 



house,) and these must be painted or shaded slightly 
to keep out too much light and heat for the first 
two weeks. Never allow the glass to fit down closely 
upon the top of box, but put under the edge little 
chips of wood a quarter or half inch thick so that a 
free circulation of air may be had above the cuttings. 
Keep the boxes in a sunny position and never allow 
the sand to get dry. In from three to four weeks all 
will be rooted, though they need not be taken out 
until a couple of weeks later. As soon as they are 



146 THE GARDEN BEAUTIFUL 

well rooted, put them into three-inch pots and allow 
them to remain there as long as possible without 
becoming potbound, or about a month. 

Planting Out 

Plant in rows in their permanent positions, about 
eighteen inches apart, leaving sufficient space be- 
tween the rows to give the necessary attention. Set 
out in rich, mellow, very heavy soil, but one con- 
taining no fresh manure. A few should be potted 
or replanted in the box at some distance apart so 
they may replace any in the field that may perish. 
If the soil is sandy it needs a liberal supply of cow 
manure which must be quite rotten or it will burn 
the roots of the plants as soon as the hot weather 
commences. Professional growers plant from early 
in May to the last of July. 

Do not start young plants off with a rush. Avoid 
stunting them, but just keep them from "standing 
still." Too much food and drink will result in a 
luxuriant, top-heavy growth that will have to be cut 
away at least twice before allowed to head. Feeding 
heavily with manures or commercial fertilizers is 
not in order for months yet, or until buds are select- 
ed. One more don't is in order — don't plant young 
stock too shallowly. Unlike carnations, 'mums are 
seldom planted too deeply. Stem hardening and wilt- 
ing of young plants are caused by the roots being left 
too near the surface. 

Training and Topping 

When young plants are eight inches high their 
training should begin by pinching out the terminal 
growth, or if they are much higher cut them off to 
eight inches, and then they should be allowed three 
or four branches from the upper part, and these in 



IN CALIFORNIA 147 

turn must be pinched or cut until a perfect bush, well 
balanced, is built up. Never do any topping after 
July, for this is the last month for restriction of 
growth. Of course if plants are to be trained to sin- 
gle stems for one to five flowers, they should not be 
made to branch into bushes. 

During July all chrysanthemums should be cut 
back. If your plants are not so treated you will 
probably get flowers before the hot weather is over 
and they will be small. If cut back in time and given 
plenty of food and drink, they will produce flowers in 
October or November. After the last topping water 
copiously. It is well to wash with the sprinkler 
the dust from the leaves about once a week ; do this 
at the close of the day. Adobe soil will not need so 
much watering as the loamy soil. Judgment must 
here be used, though water should not be withheld 
at any time — too much can scarcely be given if 
drainage is good. 

Staking and Tying 

As the plants grow up they should be staked and 
tied, one stalk or stem to a stake. Some sorts, with 
some growers, often run up to eight feet, but this is 
not general and is most inexcusable. Plants should 
be tied with raffia, procurable at any seed store, or 
with strips of cloth torn into quarter-inch widths, 
or with some very large soft twine-like candle wick- 
ing. 

Split shakes make very good stakes; for the 
dwarf er sorts one length is enough, and for the taller 
ones they may be spliced. It is all a question, 
though, of how they are grown. In some cases a 
few longer and stronger stakes would be necessary, 
and some use very large ones and group the stems. 
The better method is to stake every stalk, and then 



148 THE GARDEN BEAUTIFUL 

but very light, slender stakes are needed. For this 
purpose the best material is a bundle of shakes (split, 
not sawed.) These will prove generally useful for 
garden work. 

Fertilizing 

After staking conies fertilizing, and this must 
begin as soon as buds show and be kept up until the 
buds show the color of the flower, when it must 
absolutely stop, but great quantities of water must 
be given daily. Manure water, commercial fertiliz- 
ers or whatever is given should be used sparingly at 
first — once every ten days or two weeks — for about 
three times, and then once each week until the color- 
ing buds tell you to stop. 

Usually you may get plenty of good stable manure, 
and nothing is better for general feeding. As growth 
continues feed more and more. If you wish to get 
unusual results feed a small quantity of bone meal 
twice a week, worked into the soil around base of 
plant. This feeding must stop when the buds show 
color or you will "burn" the buds, and they will turn 
black and soon fall off the stem. When feeding stops 
and color appears in the bud, no further note need 
be taken of disbudding, for after this stage of growth 
such adventitious growths can no longer affect the 
general crop. The plants require a great deal of 
water as long as any flowers remain. Do not culti- 
vate the soil about the plants later than the first of 
August, but mulch heavily to keep down weeds. 

Disbudding 
Special attention must be given to disbudding, and 
all buds below the top ones should be rubbed out as 
soon as they appear. This is easily acomplished as 
soon as the lower buds show by "rubbing" them out 
with the finger tips as they are very brittle. On 



IN CALIFORNIA 149 

some sorts a goodly crop of attenuated side branches 
break out well down on the main stem, and these 
should be kept off, or they will take part of the food 
and thereby weaken the main crop ; for these, being 
nearer the food supply, will rob all the terminals of 
a good share of nutriment, and those are the ones 
from which you may expect the best flowers. 

Much care must be taken in top or flower disbud- 
ding. The stems to these buds are very brittle and 
break very easily. Hold the buds with one hand and 
take a small stick like a toothpick and crowd off the 
buds which you wish to dispose of. You will make 
some mistakes here. If you should leave a leaf bud 
instead of a flower bud all is not lost. The leaf bud 
will make a branch which will in a short time present 
a terminal cluster like the one with which you have 
just dealt; then try again. This breaking out of 
buds must not be neglected for even a few days, but 
must be attended to at the proper time. Disbudding 
for the earliest sorts begins about August 5th and 
for the very latest sorts about September 15th. 

Crown and Terminal Buds 

Growers recognize two kinds of buds, terminal, 
and crown. These terms are easily understood, the 
one large bud which first comes at the end of each 
shoot is the crown bud; the secondary ones are the 
terminal buds, of which several surround the crown. 
In the early sorts it is best to use the crown buds. 

The crown buds will begin to show in August, 
though in fact on some varieties they are formed 
at any time during the summer, but if surrounding 
buds are taken off before late in August the crown 
buds are liable to produce imperfect flowers. Other 
phases of disbudding may begin earlier if plants are 
sufficiently advanced. A crown bud may be distin- 



150 THE GARDEN BEAUTIFUL 

guished when young by the buds directly below or 
surounding it being growth buds. If these growth 
buds are not taken off they will finally produce new 
shoots, and the crown bud will dry up, it being 
really an abortive flower bud and would never pro- 
duce a flower without the aid of the grower. These 
crown buds, being produced fully two weeks before 
the terminal buds begin to appear, will produce 
flowers two weeks earlier than if terminals had been 
chosen. 

For midseason and late varieties it is just as well 
to take the terminal buds. They appear in a cluster 
and are all flower buds. These are the buds that are 
usually chosen for general purpose flowers. It is 
more work to disbud these, as new buds are contin- 
ually forming, and the plants have to be gone over 
several times. When the crown bud is reserved no 
buds are subsequently formed under it, and if all 
side shoots are brushed off they will require but one 
disbudding. Then the leaves begin to assume a dark, 
leathery appearance, and you may know all the 
strength of the plant is being concentrated in the 
flower, and it is likely to be a good one. 

Pot Culture 

As soon as the plants have filled the three-inch 
pots with roots, shift again into six-inch pots. Give 
a good drainage of broken crocks and two-thirds 
fibrous soil and one-third good rotten manure, water 
thoroughly and spray occasionally. From this time 
the plants need no other shift till the final one which 
is about the first of June. Care should be taken in 
pinching the plants, pinch either ten days before 
potting or ten days after — as it is liable to check the 
plants. This is done only to keep the plants from 
maturing too soon. 



IN CALIFORNIA 151 

When transplanting to their final pots give good 
drainage and use good soil and well rotted manure. 
For pots the best size is ten or twelve-inch, well 
drained, and have the soil in a good friable condition. 
Pot firmly by means of a stick, leaving about two 
inches from the top of the pot to the soil for water- 
ing and mulching. The plants should then be thor- 
oughly watered and placed in a good position and 
sprayed overhead for a few days, great care being 
taken in watering till they get well established in the 
pots. 

Sorts to Grow 

There are so many named varieties of chrysanthe- 
mums, all of which will make grand blooms if well 
cared for, that it is impossible to give a list of the 
better sorts. Excellence in flowers is more a matter 
of care than of kind. 

Chrysanthemum History 

Marco Polo, the Venetian traveler who visited 
China about the year 1300, mentions having seen 
the chrysanthemum in that country, and it is be- 
lieved to be native there, but not to Japan. To the 
Chinese belongs the credit of raising it to the pres- 
ent large size and to the Japanese of perfecting its 
varied forms and colors. It reached Europe about 
1450 and England about 1700. 

A chrysanthemum with small yellow flowers grew 
in the Apothecaries' Botanical Garden at Chelsea in 
England in 1764, but the first of the large-flowered 
varieties was received at the Royal Gardens at Kew 
and blossomed in 1764. It is from the latter that the 
centennial introduction of the flower into England 
dates. The first English seedlings of the chrysan- 
themum were raised in 1835; the first chrysanthe- 
mum exhibition in England was held in 1843 at 



152 THE GARDEN BEAUTIFUL 

Norwich, and this was soon followed by the organi- 
zation of the society at Stoke Newington, now known 
as the National Chrysanthemum Society. 

A new era in the history of the plant opened in 
England in 1847 by the introduction of the Pompon. 
In 1843, at the close of the war with China, Mr. 
Robert Fortune was sent out to that country by the 
London Horticultural Society to collect rare plants, 
and one of the curiosities he discovered was the 
Chusan daisy. This and another small flower from 
the same source were the parents of the tribe known, 
from their resemblance to a rosette, as pompon 
chrysanthemums. Still later, in 1860-62, Mr. For- 
tune made more discoveries at the town of Ak-sax- 
saw in Japan. He describes this town of Ak-sax-saw 
as the most famous place near Yedo for the variety 
and beauty of its chrysanthemums, some of which 
were in form and coloring quite distinct from any 
then known in Europe. "If," he said, "I can succeed 
in introducing these varieties into Europe, they may 
create as great change among chrysanthemums as 
my Chusan daisy did when it became the parent of 
the present race of Pompons." They were taken up 
in England, proved successful, and from them sprang 
those marvelous flowers which are the pride of our 
gardens. 




■ ; ||i1|| v 0- ■ 1 " ' y : s m^ ; j> ■ 




THE AUSTRALIAN BUNYA-BUNYA 

Araucaria Bidwillii 



CHAPTER XII 
PESTS AND DISEASES 

Among the worst garden pests we have to deal 
with are the millipedes, or, as some call them, wire- 
worms. There seems to be no way of ridding the 
soil of these pests except by trapping, a very slow 
and unsatisfactory method. Lime and wood ashes 
bother them a little, but only a little, and anything 
strong enough to kill them will also kill the plants. 
They are especially fond of the bulbs of callas, lilies, 
gladioli, begonias and anemones, and the roots of 
stocks, snapdragons, pansies and many other plants. 
The easiest way to trap them is by laying pieces of 
boards on the ground, stepping on each piece to see 
that they are firm. Once a day these should be 
taken up and the millipedes underneath killed, after 
which replace the boards and repeat each day until 
no more are found. 

The Industrious Ant 

The most persistent garden pest for a great part 
of the year, and one that multiplies rapidly unless 
checked, is the industrious ant. One of our agricul- 
tural colleges states that greatest success in exter- 
mination of ants has come through use of an arsenic 
solution. For instant death of invading ants a one 
per cent solution with enough syrup to sweeten it is 
used. 

Prof. Woodworth of Berkeley states that he has 
found that a solution of between one-eighth and one- 
fourth per cent is best for the reason that it acts 



154 THE GARDEN BEAUTIFUL 

more slowly and the adults carry it to the nests and 
feed it to the young, and the whole nest is thereby 
killed through slow poisoning. He recommends that 
a sponge saturated with the fluid be placed in a closed 
jar with a perforated cover so ants only may go and 
come. These jars may then be safely left about the 
garden or carried into kitchen or pantry. 

A solution of potassium cyanide at the rate of one 
ounce to a gallon of water, when poured into a small 
pit at the exit of a burrow, destroys ants to a depth 
of one and a half feet below the surface of the soil. 
This solution can be prepared at a cost of from one 
and one-half to two cents per gallon. It appears, 
however, to be injurious to plant life. 

A very effective, but more expensive method, and 
one that has been used with great success for a num- 
ber of years, is to pour one or more teaspoons of 
bisulphide of carbon into the opening of each nest, 
preferably while the soil is wet, closing the holes 
promptly afterward with the foot. This insecticide 
has the advantage of being more penetrating than 
the others mentioned; it is heavier than air and 
descends as a gas into all the subterranean tunnels 
of the ants, destroying them as well as all other liv- 
ing creatures which may be present. When liberally 
applied this chemical will destroy entire colonies of 
ants. 

A very good poison for ants in the greenhouse 
is a mixture of Paris green and sugar, adding just 
enough of the poison to white granulated sugar to 
turn it a light green color. This should be dusted 
lightly among the pots on and under the benches. 
Be careful not to put any in the pots or on a bench 
containing soil, as the Paris green is liable to damage 
the plants. 



IN CALIFORNIA 155 

Ants and Plant Lice 

Plant lice are familiar objects to all. The general 
farmer and the casual observer of these creatures 
on cabbage and other vegetable crops simply recog- 
nizes them as lice, but to the florist they are better 
known under the names of green fly and aphis. An 
interesting fact in regard to them is that most com- 
mon species exude from two tubes near the ends of 
the abdominal segments a transparent fluid having a 
sweetish taste. It is frequently excreted in great 
quantity, and this is the secret of the attraction of 
ants to these creatures. The liquid is known as 
honey-dew, and it attracts, besides ants, wasps, bees, 
flies and some other insects. 

Plant Lice, Green Fly, or Aphis 

Fifty-eight persons competed for a prize offered at 
Frankfort, Germany, for the best method of de- 
stroying plant lice. The winner's preparation is as 
follows : Quassia wood, two and one-half pounds, to 
be soaked overnight in ten quarts of water and well 
boiled, then strained through a cloth and placed, with 
100 quarts of water, in a petroleum barrel with five 
pounds of soft soap ; to be used as a spray. 

In wet or cool weather they are hard to extermi- 
nate, but during hot days the fumes of both sulphur 
and of tobacco dust will sufficiently keep the pests in 
check. Sprinkle both over the damp foliage, spar- 
ingly but evenly, in the morning of what promises to 
be a hot day. The sulphur fumes also destroy the 
fungus known as mildew. 

One way to get rid of plant lice is to use tobacco 
water made by pouring boiling water over tobacco 
stems, or by boiling the stems. After cooling pour 
off the liquid and add more water. This tobacco tea 



156 THE GARDEN BEAUTIFUL 

should be used as soon after making as possible and 
is of little value if allowed to stand two or three 
days, for it will start to ferment and it then loses its 
strength. The most convenient form to use is the 
nicotine extract. A pint of the nicotine is extracted 
from 150 pounds of tobacco. It comes in pint bottles 
and is sold to nurserymen for about $1.50 a bottle. 
Use one tablespoon of the nicotine to five gallons of 
water. If you use the tea or nicotine it should be 
sprayed on the plants each morning for three days, 
and all the aphis will be exterminated. 

Worms in Flower Pots 

Wireworms or millipedes often bother pot plants, 
and occasionally other worms are present. The most 
effective way to drive out these pests is to use lime 
water. Dissolve lime in water, one pound of lime to 
about ten gallons of water, though it does not matter 
how much you use, as only a certain amount will be 
held in solution. Allow it to settle until water is 
clear and then water the plants with it. Bottles of 
this, tightly corked, may be kept on hand, though 
worms in potting soil are not a very common trouble. 
The settled lime should be put in the garden as it 
will benefit both soil and plants. 

Cutworms, Sow Bugs, Etc. 

Thoroughly mix one peck, eight quarts or two gal- 
lons, of wheat bran with one tablespoon of Paris 
green, then add a quart of strong molasses. Rub all 
the ingredients together thoroughly until the mass 
becomes of the same consistency throughout and 
crumbles easily. Scatter lightly among the plants 
where the cutworms are feeding, and you will have 
no further trouble there. This poison also destrops 



IN CALIFORNIA 157 

snails, sow bugs, etc. ; it never fails and is the sim- 
plest treatment for this class of pests. 

One competent authority states that the following 
formula for a poisoned bran is the most effective he 
has used : Take of bran eight pounds, Paris green 
four ounces, common salt two ounces, syrup or mo- 
lasses one pint. Add sufficient water to make a 
crumbly or dryish mash. Avoid placing it where 
chickens or domestic animals will be poisoned. It 
may be thinly scattered among garden plants that 
are attacked. 

Probably the most economically applied spray 
consists of Paris green mixed in the following pro- 
portions : 

Paris green, pure, or to contain at least fifty per 
cent arsenious acid, two ounces; fresh lime, one 
pound ; water, 25 gallons. 

Use no ammonia or soap. Make the Paris green 
into a paste before placing it in a spray tank and 
keep constantly stirred while spraying. To make 
the Paris green more insoluble, and thereby prevent 
injury to the leaves, dissolve six pounds of fresh 
lime in water and when the lime has settled add 
the water to the solution and keep it constantly 
stirred. 

Scale Insects, Red Spider, etc. 

One pound of Gold Dust dissolved in five gallons 
of water works wonders in cleaning trees and plants 
of insect life and the smut resultant from their excre- 
tions. This formula is only for such things as have 
hard foliage, like citrus trees. A gallon or two more 
water added to every pound of "dust' will permit its 
use on soft plants. 

Kerosene emulsion is also good where an insecti- 
cide is needed. Dissolve one pound of soft soap in 



158 THE GARDEN BEAUTIFUL 

a gallon of boiling water, keeping it well agitated 
with a syringe or pump until the soap is quite melted. 
Then while still boiling, or nearly so, add one pint 
of kerosene and continue to agitate the mixture for 
about five minutes, which will thoroughly mix the 
soap and oil. Dilute with another two gallons of 
water and it is ready for use. The mixture may be 
still weaker and used frequently if preferred. It 
should always be carefully sprayed, using a very 
fine nozzle, and applied particularly to the under 
sides of the leaves. 

Rats/ Rats/ 

One wholesale florist says : "Take slaked lime and 
alum and put the mixture under or on benches, 
around poultry yards or greenhouses, and you will 
get rid of all rats. I had them so bad that they de- 
stroyed my geraniums and carnations. The rat is 
very fond of water, and when it goes along on this 
preparation it gets its claws full, rubs its nose, then 
runs for water ; and as soon as it gets water the ani- 
mal is destroyed. 

"For ants and slugs the mixture named cannot be 
beaten by anything on the market. I have nine 
greenhouses and have not a slug or an ant in the 
place." 

Oak Caterpillars 

The oak trees in some counties of the state are 
defoliated by the caterpillar of the oak moth, Phry- 
ganidia Californica, and people who value these 
beautiful landmarks are much concerned about it. 
Frequently whole districts are to be seen in which 
every tree is stripped of its leaves. The remedy 
against the worm, and one that should be frequently 
applied, is a Paris green spray, one pound to 200 gal- 



IN CALIFORNIA 159 

Ions of water. If this is freely used the worms will 
soon disappear. 

Gophers and Squirrels 

Some prefer to use bisulphide of carbon to kill 
gophers and squirrels. It must be used when the 
ground is damp, or the fumes will not be confined 
enough to destroy the rodents. After turning about 
a gill of the liquid in the hole quickly cover with soil 
and press down to confine the poisonous vapors. 
Poison, a good cat or trap, will prove equally effect- 
ive in killing the gophers. 

A good formula for poisoning squirrels is: One 
ounce strychnine, one ounce cyanide of potassium, 
one-half gallon molasses, and enough wheat to take 
up the liquid. It takes about fifty pounds. Enough 
water is added to moisten it. It is of little use to put 
out poison when grass and weeds are near by; an- 
other reason for cleaning the roadways of disfiguring 
weeds. The strychnine should be dissolved in vine- 
gar, and the cyanide in warm water, before they are 
mixed with the molasses and the wheat. 

Mildew on Roses, Etc. 

Mildew is a fungus plant which is parasitic on the 
rose and other plants and appears as a gray, pow- 
dery substance on the young growth, attacking both 
foliage and stem. It can be checked by the use of sul- 
phur as it is used to stop mildew on grape vines. Be 
sure you treat your plants generously with manure 
and water to keep them in good health. 

On the first appearance of the disease it is advis- 
able to dust the foliage with sulphur. This is best 
done in the evening when there is no wind to blow 
it off, or in early morning after spraying with water. 
At this stage some spray with a light solution of sul- 



160 THE GARDEN BEAUTIFUL 

phide of potassium, but if a spray is found necessary- 
it will be better to use the Bordeaux mixture, which 
for our purpose should be made as follows : Copper 
sulphate, five pounds ; lime, five pounds ; water, forty 
gallons. A very weak solution of soft soap used as a 
spray is also beneficial. 

We give below the two latest approved sprays, the 
first recipe comes from England and is vouched for 
by William Payne, F. L. S., Honorable Secretary of 
the National Rose Society, and a famous rosarian; 
the second from a skillful rose grower of the 
United States. Both are good. 

"Boil two pounds of soft soap in two gallons of 
water; while still boiling and immediately after it 
has been removed from the fire add half a pint of 
paraffme oil and a quarter pound of sulphur. When 
using add half a pint of this solution to a gallon of 
water, soft water is best, and apply as a spray." 

"Shave up a bar of ivory soap, or any kind which 
contains no free alkali, and dissolve in a pail of boil- 
ing water. When dissolved, dilute with five pails 
of cold water. This does not need washing off again 
as the thin coating is a preventive as well as a cura- 
tive. It will also kill all kinds of aphids, or green 
fly, as well as red spider on violets." 




CHILEAN WINE OR HONEY PALM 

Jubeae spectabilis 



CHAPTER XIII 
THE GARDEN CALENDAR 

January 

The planting season for all but tender growths is 
at hand and new gardening operations should be 
under full sway. Do not send east of the Rocky 
Mountains for either seeds or plants. None are so 
well adapted to local conditions as home-grown stock, 
and our seeds are famous the world over. Conditions 
are so entirely different with us that vegetation cul- 
tivated under other methods and environment is not 
so well suited to our gardens as that grown here. 
There is also another good business reason for 
patronizing local dealers ; they are get-at-able in case 
you receive unsatisfactory stock. 

GENERAL WORK 

Now is the time to attend to manuring and spad- 
ing vacant beds and borders. After spading leave 
the ground in a rough state; don't rake it down, as 
the sun and air will do more good and it will leave 
the ground in a more friable condition than if raked 
smooth. Don't be afraid to enrich abundantly as 
the ground will be in better condition for spring 
planting. 

Get rid of all rubbish, dead weeds, etc., so that 
when the spring crop of garden pests hatches it 
will find less shelter. Such a cleaning up removes 
many insects in a dormant state, or their eggs, and 
very often both insects and eggs. This garden rub- 
bish should always be burned or deeply composted. 



162 THE GARDEN BEAUTIFUL 

When taken from a garden full of pests it should be 
carried, not dragged, over the ground, thereby avoid- 
ing scattering insects and diseases. 

SEED SOWING 

Do not fail to plant a few native wild flowers. Our 
California seeds, plants, and bulbs are in heavy de- 
mand the world over, more so in every European 
country than is the case here at home. We have a 
long list of beauties that thrive splendidly in the gar- 
den and range through all shades and colors in the 
flowers. 

For summer and fall flowers an early sowing of 
antirrhinum, arctotis, aster, calliopsis, celosia, cen- 
taurea, chrysanthemum, dianthus, Phlox Drum- 
mondi, summer flowering stocks, salvia, etc., may 
be made now. The seedsman can give you an idea of 
what will be the better seeds to sow for seasons 
vary according to amount, time of rainfall, etc., 
and no hard and fast rule may be laid down. The 
more tender annuals would be risky at present if you 
have no greenhouse or protection for them. Hardy 
varieties may be sown at any time. 

No better time could be found than January for 
the sowing of sweet peas for spring blossoms. The 
plants like to grow in the cool earth, and if sown 
now the vines will be shading the roots before the 
soil gets overheated. It matters little how warm the 
atmosphere is if the soil below is cool and moist, and 
this it must be if success comes. The modern sweet 
pea is a wonderful improvement over the old types 
and may be obtained in nearly every shade from 
white to black. Of late the orchid-flowered Spencer 
strain is much in demand and far more beautiful 
than the plain, unruffled flowers. 



IN CALIFORNIA 163 

DIVIDING ROOTS AND TUBERS 

If you are going to propagate a stock of chrysan- 
themums for the present year, either by dividing 
them to single shoots or by rooting the tips in sand, 
you should find proper material on the old clumps; 
water and cultivate so that you may get cuttings in 
thirty or forty days. A box of clean, sharp sand in a 
shaded position will give you good results if not neg- 
lected. 

Where large beds and borders of canna, cyperus, 
papyrus and elephant ear have not been disturbed 
for three or more years, it will be found advisable 
to dig up the cannas and caladiums and store them 
away until March or April, and the large clumps of 
papyrus and cyperus can be divided and replanted in 
the border when it is spaded up, or divided in spring. 
These can stand any amount of fertilizer. Dig up 
the beds as deeply as possible and turn under several 
inches of well-rotted manure ; leave the beds rough, 
and later in planting time they will be in a good 
friable condition to replant. 

BULBS 

Gladiolus may be planted now, using rich ground, 
and plant them at intervals of two or three weeks 
for the next four months, to get a succession of 
blooms throughout the summer. Also plant calla, 
dahlia and Easter lily. 

Those who have not planted bulbs of anemone, 
hyacinth, ixia, lily, narcissus, ranunculus, spar axis 
and tulip should put them in the ground at once, if 
any of these flowers are desired. If a handful of 
sharp sand is placed in the hole for each bulb to set 
on, it will insure success in many cases where failure 
would otherwise result. Soak bulbs of anemone and 
ranunculus a couple of hours before planting. 



164 THE GARDEN BEAUTIFUL 

TREES, SHRUBS AND HERBS 

Roses are dormant and if planted now will at once 
start into growth and produce a bountiful crop of 
blooms early in the season. 

This is a golden time for the planting of all de- 
ciduous trees and shrubs, also hardy evergreens ; but 
citrus trees and the more tender sorts, both fruiting 
and ornamental, are better left until February or 
March. The latter class will start only when the soil 
gets warm in spring from the increasing heat of the 
sun ; in the meantime they remain dormant. 

Roses may be pruned and manure spaded in about 
them any time during the month ; in March they will 
begin to sprout for the spring crop of blooms. Do 
not prune such climbers at the present time as 
Cherokee, Banksia, Beauty of Glazenwood, Gold of 
Ophir, etc., as their bloom is produced all along the 
branches. The best time to prune these is after their 
spring crop of flowers ; then they will have time dur- 
ing summer to grow long branches for next season's 
flowers. 

Pansy plants are ready to plant out, and care 
should be taken in preparing the ground. Many 
people complain they bought the best seeds or the 
finest plants, and they are no better, in flowers, than 
common ones. The cause of such failures is poor soil 
or lack of preparation. To prepare the ground for 
pansies: Choose your location, which should be 
sunny at least two-thirds of the day ; manure it well ; 
get some charcoal, pulverize it and spade it in with 
the manure. After spading sow some soot on top 
of the ground and rake it in thoroughly. The char- 
coal and soot are to sweeten the soil, the soot also 
keeps away snails and other injurious insects; 
together they give a rich dark color to the plants and 



IN CALIFORNIA 165 

also serve to bring out richness of color in the 
flowers. 

Other seasonable flowering plants which may be 
planted now, include the antirrhinum, calendula, 
carnation, delphinium, dianthus, hollyhock, pansy, 
pelargonium or Lady Washington geranium (if you 
have a hot south front where other plants burn 
up during summer try a few), pentstemon, phlox, 
stock, Shasta daisy, verbena (all colors make a 
splendid display in April if planted now) , and wall- 
flower. 

A TIMELY WARNING 

Do not be in a hurry to fertilize your lawn; the 
present cold weather is good for the grass, it gives it 
a resting period. The disadvantage of fertilizing too 
early is that it will force a new growth at the time 
we are getting our coldest weather, and the conse- 
quence is the tender young grass gets nipped by the 
frost when "in the milk." When it should look nice 
in the early spring it stops growing and looks brown. 
It is forced from its natural resting time, the tender 
growth is frozen, and it takes its rest toward spring 
when the fertilizer has exhausted its forcing quali- 
ties or has been washed away. Grass should rest 
during the coldest weather. February and March or 
even April will be found the best months to manure 
the lawns, and from that time there will be a luxu- 
riant growth until the cold weather of autumn comes 
again. 

February 

The present should be the season of greatest activ- 
ity in gardening. Bear in mind spring is fully on us 
and perfection of bloom next summer demands early 
attention to the garden this month. Plants of all 
kinds are pushing forth new growths, swelling buds 



166 THE GARDEN BEAUTIFUL 

on deciduous trees denote the rising sap, all nature 
feels the pulse of spring. 

GENERAL WORK 

Nearly all plants should be pruned and fertilized 
at this time, soil stirred, rubbish cleared away and 
plants and seeds put in the ground. A month or so 
later the value of such work is much less than if done 
at present. The only plants which should not be set 
out until later are those of a strictly tropical nature, 
most of which are foliage plants like cyperus, canna, 
elephant's ear, etc. Another tropical root or bulb 
which should wait for a month is the dahlia. Fer- 
tilize all growing plants, but not dormant ones. 

After a rain time should elapse sufficient to dry 
the soil into a workable condition, for soil worked 
when unfit becomes still more unfit for planting. In 
the meantime, if soaking rain has not come, put your 
soil in a condition to receive all that falls. There 
is always considerable doubt as to our rainfall, in 
time and quantity, but it is far better for plant life 
than the water pipe supply, so that we should aim 
faoth to catch and to hold it. For this purpose leave 
your soil in the rough, well spaded up, until you need 
to use it. After each rain, for fear no more will 
come, hoe and rake the surface as deeply as you may 
easily go, to conserve what has already fallen. 

SEED SOWING 

Begonias of the tuberous rooted section may be 
grown from the seeds indoors, and it is also time to 
plant seeds of torrenias which are of a like delicate 
nature and suitable for the same positions, whole 
or partial shade. 

Sow seeds for fall and summer flowers: Antir- 
rhinum, aster, calliopsis, celosia, chrysanthemum, 



IN CALIFORNIA 167 

salvia, stock, sweet pea, sweet William ; your seeds- 
man will tell you of the kinds that are timely. 
Hardy annuals may of course be sown at any time. 

CUTTINGS AND DIVISIONS 

Carnation cuttings may be rooted in precisely the 
same manner prescribed in another chapter for 
chrysanthemums. Hardwood cuttings of deciduous 
shrubs such as crepe myrtle, deutzia, hydrangea, 
lemon verbena, lilac and weigelia should now be 
made and put in sand or soil. 

With the first warm weather after a heavy rain it 
will do to divide herbaceous perennials like golden- 
rod, golden glow, Shasta daisy, and even chrysan- 
themum. The latter are best if propagated each 
season by rooting tips in a box of sand. It is rather 
early, although the first of March should see them 
started. By planting the cuttings in sand, keeping 
moist but not too wet, you can easily perpetuate a 
stock of your favorite 'mums. 

BULBS 

Finish planting lily, anemone and ranunculus. 
Plant agapanthus, amaryllis, canna, calla, caladium, 
elephant's ear, dahlia, iris, gladiolus, tuberose and all 
that class of bulbs, corms and roots. Do not plant all 
gladioli at once, though earlier plantings give the 
better flowers. 

Tuberous begonias may be started in pots during 
this month and planted out in April. A soil of one- 
third each of sand, leaf mold, and good garden loam 
is ideal for this or any other class of begonias, and 
this should always be the composition for pot cul- 
ture. Remember in placing the dormant bulb on 
soil that the hollow side should be up. Set pots away 
in cool shady spot until tops show through soil, and 



168 THE GARDEN BEAUTIFUL 

then gradually inure to sun. Every year marks an 
improvement in this class of begonia, and no garden 
is complete without them. They range from white 
to deep orange and crimson, both single and double, 
also plain and fringed. 

GENERAL PLANTING 

During February you may plant bare root, dor- 
mant roses if a good rain has fallen. It is also timely 
to prune and fertilize those now in the garden. De- 
ciduous trees and shrubs should be planted at once, 
and all hardy seeds and plants should be rushed into 
the soil for growing weather is with us and only 
those plants that get a good start in spring come to 
greatest perfection. Carnation, petunia, pansy, 
stock, verbena, and salvia can be transplanted from 
seed boxes to the open beds. 

February is a good month for planting golden 
glow, or summer chrysanthemum (a rudbeckia) . 
Few of the seedsmen or nurserymen handling orna- 
mentals catalogue it, and few people seem to know 
it, though it is by no means a novelty. It is a large, 
showy plant attaining in good soil a height of six or 
eight feet the same season planted; flowers three 
and one-half inches in diameter, double, well formed, 
deep golden color, and borne on long stems which 
render them suitable for cutting. They are magnifi- 
cent for indoor decoration. Plants bloom profusely 
from June to October. 

TRANSPLANTING EVERGREENS 

The best time to transplant an evergreen is when 
the growth is about to start. This is usually in the 
spring when moisture and heat are adequate to stim- 
ulate new growth. The best season is from February 
to May, according to the region in which you are 



IN CALIFORNIA 169 

working. Heat is then sufficient and not excessive, 
and moisture is usually plentiful. Everything feels 
like growing under these conditions and the tree 
quickly establishes itself. 

The deciduous tree can safely be transplanted dur- 
ing the whole of its dormant period unless the ground 
is cold and water soaked; the evergreen does best 
near the close of its period of dormancy. The tree 
does not need manure in the hole ; if you wish to push 
it, use manure on top when you are sure that it has 
reestablished itself. All evergreens should be taken 
up with a ball of dirt if possible. It is a great deal 
better to get a part of the roots in natural position 
and condition than to get all the roots with their 
natural connections with the soil destroyed. 

LAWN WORK 

February is usually a good month for lawn fertil- 
ization, though in a backward season March is pre- 
ferable. The lawn may be covered with well rotted 
manure. Wet down well to wash manure into soil as 
much as possible. Rake over every day or two so the 
grass roots will not be smothered and killed out. 
After a week or two of this treatment, lightly rake 
off the manure which may remain on top. 

See that natural fertilizers, if used, are well rotted 
for they may be full of unsprouted seeds of Bermuda 
grass, dandelion and other pernicious weeds and 
bring to your lawn more harm than good. A safer 
plan, unless absolutely sure of your material, is to 
buy a commercial lawn fertilizer, of which there are 
numerous good brands in the market. 

Bone meal is fine for a lawn. True up the edges 
and seed with blue grass or clover where the soil is 
bare or where weeds have choked out the grass. If 
Bermuda grass is crowding into the lawn sow a lib- 



170 THE GARDEN BEAUTIFUL 

eral supply of white clover as advised in the chapter 
on lawns. 

March 

The month of March should be a very active one 
so far as general garden work is concerned, and 
planting, pruning and propagation should be the 
active program, followed by irrigation, cultivation 
and fertilization. 

GENERAL WORK 

Ground should be spaded up and aired for two or 
three weeks for the tropical perennials. After thor- 
ough exposure for a time scatter some well rotted 
manure over the surface, roughly break up the lumps 
and smooth it somewhat and respade to mix the fer- 
tilizer thoroughly into the soil. Not until April will 
the ground be warm enough to induce a quick, vigor- 
ous growth of these plants. 

Don't continually stir the soil around shallow 
rooted plants. Get some well rotted manure and 
mulch the surface of your beds, being careful not to 
cover the crown of the plants. You will lighten your 
work and get infinitely better results. A mulch 
keeps the soil cool and moist; it checks evaporation 
and prevents the soil from cracking and drying out. 
It eliminates a lot of useless labor and will insure 
you a fine crop of perfect blooms. 

SEED SOWING 

In the sowing of all seeds mentioned care must be 
exercised to keep them constantly moist and to sow 
them in a rather light compost; this is particularly 
applicable to asters, which if allowed to become dry 
at any time during the germinating period will sure- 
ly perish. 



IN CALIFORNIA 171 

Be careful not to cover seeds too deeply; one- 
eighth of an inch is sufficient for asters, and in the 
case of very small seeds not to exceed one-sixteenth 
of an inch. Sweet peas planted now will not flower 
before the weather is too warm to allow a normal 
development. Small, puny flowers will result. 

March is the ideal month for the sowing of a host 
of summer annuals. In a month or two beds which 
you devoted to bulbs for winter and spring bloom- 
ing will be empty, so make preparations for succes- 
sional plantings. A few of the more important an- 
nuals for summer are : Antirrhinum, aster, balsam, 
celosia, cockscomb, calliopsis, centaurea, cosmos, 
dianthus, larkspur, African and French marigolds, 
nasturtium, Phlox Drummondi, salpiglossis, scabio- 
sa, zinnia, etc. The foregoing are but a few lead- 
ers. There are dozens of others. 

PROPAGATION BY CUTTINGS 

Bottom heat either in greenhouse or in a hotbed 
made with stable manure will prove a great aid, in 
all cases bringing a much greater proportion of the 
cuttings to root. However, bottom heat is not 
needed, though better results can be obtained with 
such a convenience. The average garden owner 
would better rely on the nurseryman for needed 
plants. For those who wish to experiment the fol- 
lowing is recommended. 

Make all cuttings with a sharp knife, occasionally 
wiped clean, cutting through at an angle of about 45 
degrees, just below a bud or eye. Insert these cut- 
tings in a box of clean, sharp sand in rows. Do not 
force them down but use a lath or other straight 
edge by laying on sand and making a cut in the wet 
sand with a piece of shingle, old table knife or simi- 
lar utensil, and after insertion of cuttings press the 



172 THE GARDEN BEAUTIFUL 

sand back against them and water well. After this 
keep damp, not wet, yet never allow to dry, and see 
that drainage is good by first boring a few small 
holes through bottom of box. 

All bedding plants may now be propagated, such 
as ageratum, alternanthera, begonia, carnation, 
coleus, fuchsia, heliotrope, iresine, marguerite, salvia 
and santolina. Select young brittle tips. Propagate 
violets from cuttings so that you may have flowering 
plants for next winter. 

While some prefer the earlier winter months for 
the propagation of roses from hardwood cuttings, 
there are many gardeners who have splendid success 
with March cuttings. All deciduous shrubs and trees 
that have not yet started into leaf or bloom, such as 
crepe myrtle, deutzia, hydrangea, lilac and weigelia, 
will grow very readily from cuttings during this 
month, and any of these sorts to be moved or planted 
should be handled at once. The cuttings should be 
made long enough to have three or more eyes and be 
set firmly and deeply in a sand box or the ground, 
leaving one or two eyes above the surface. A par- 
tially shaded position is best. 

PROPAGATION BY DIVISION 

All perennials may now be divided and replanted 
except the strictly tropical plants, and these had best 
be left for a while: Delphinium, or larkspur; 
solidago, or goldenrod ; helianthus, sunflower, peren- 
nial ; pentstemon ; phlox ; rudbeckia, or golden glow, 
and Shasta daisy are just right for division, and 
nearly all are much improved by the process being 
repeated each year. 

Old roots of chrysanthemum should be cultivated 
and watered imediately to provide young and tender 
shoots for slips or cuttings to be taken during April 



IN CALIFORNIA 173 

or May. If you cannot propagate them from the 
cuttings, divide the clumps into the smallest rooted 
pieces you can. 

Florists and gardeners start all 'mums from cut- 
tings each year, throwing the old clumps away as 
soon as cuttings are rooted. Clumps of all the oth- 
ers noted may be divided and planted according to 
the taste of the planter. The latter end of the month 
is early enough to plant your broken up clumps of 
canna, caladium or elephant's ear, cyperus, dahlia, 
ginger, etc. 

BULBS 
Plant out summer flowering bulbs, especially more 
gladiolus, reserving a few for later planting, though 
the early plantings usually give best results. Trito- 
nia, or montbretia, closely allied to the gladiolus, may 
be had in a variety of shades from yellow to red ; try 
a few of the better sorts ; they need no care but being 
kept free from weeds. Calla, canna, dahlia, tube- 
rose, and tigridia are also in order for planting. 

Amaryllis which have been left in the ground 
should have the surrounding soil loosened up and 
pulverized, and they should be given a good mulching 
with well rotted manure, preferably from the horse 
stable. Tuberous begonias, if started now, should be 
planted in pots and later placed in their permanent 
home. They should always be grown in the shade 
and have a rich, loose, well drained soil. If you in- 
tend planting the bulbs directly in the soil, hold for a 
month yet. Tritonias may be treated the same as 
gladiolus. If they have been left in the ground for 
years and are very thick, pull out three-fourths of 
them ; you will get more blooms and better ones than 
you could obtain by keeping all. 



174 THE GARDEN BEAUTIFUL 

GENERAL PLANTING 

March is the month in which to look after plants 
for next winter's flowers. Especially is this true of 
carnation, chrysanthemum and violet. Carnations 
should not be grown longer than three years and 
should then be replaced by younger plants. Now is 
the time to plant aster, celosia, centaurea, calliopsis, 
salvia, Shasta daisy and verbena. 

If you have planted no pansy seeds, you had best 
buy plants now for it is rather too late to get the best 
results from seeds. If your plants are already grow- 
ing see that the surface soil is kept well stirred and 
pulverized. Pansies are gross feeders and the beds 
should be well mulched with manure. For spring 
flowers plant in sunny place, for summer flowering 
plant in a somewhat shady place. 

Now is the time to plant violets, either in young 
plants or cuttings, to get the best results, next fall 
and winter, in blooms. Violets like a rich, loose soil, 
with a top mulch of light manure during the heated 
term, and don't forget to give them a generous sup- 
ply of water at frequent intervals. Put your plants 
in several exposures, not all in the shade, so that you 
may be able to gather violets over a considerable 
period of time. 

PRUNING SHRUBS AND VINES 
Prune hydrangea now, as it flowers on the current 
season's growth. Also cut poinsettia back to three 
eyes of last season's growth. Do not prune deutzia, 
spirea, syringa, and weigelia at this time. If you 
do you will lose most of your blooming wood. They 
should be pruned immediately after they are through 
blooming. 

Bignonia and bougainvillea should be pruned now. 
On bignonia leave as many of the stronger growths 



IN CALIFORNIA 175 

as are needed to cover the object on which it is to 
grow, and cut out all other main shoots back to the 
root. All laterals on the shoots left should be cut 
back to two or three eyes, not more. Cut out all the 
coarse suckers that came from the roots of the bou- 
gainvillea last year, for they will produce but few 
flowers, and thin out the vine to suit yourself, though 
the main stems should not be trimmed clean at the 
bottom. These vines look best when well furnished 
with foliage to the ground. No danger will result 
from heavy pruning ; it is needed. 

PRUNE AND FEED ROSES 

Be careful not to trim spring and early summer 
blooming climbers now or you will get few flowers. 
These roses: Banksias, Beauty of Glazenwood, 
Cherokees, Gold of Ophir, etc., should be given only 
such pruning as is necessary to keep them within 
proper bounds immediately after their annual crop 
of flowers. After this period they bend all their en- 
ergies toward making flower bearing wood for next 
year. This in itself is enough to suggest the proper 
pruning season. 

During this month roses push out their new 
growths. New canes will break from the eyes both 
above and below the surface of the soil. Assist this 
growth in every manner possible. Give the beds a 
good forking over, dress the surface with a liberal 
coat of air slacked lime to sweeten it, following some 
time later with a heavy mulch of any good fibrous 
manure. Subsequent rains or waterings will leach 
the plant food from this dressing and give a sur- 
passing vigor to the new growths. In proportion as 
you treat roses now will they repay you in bloom 
production during April, May and June. 



176 THE GARDEN BEAUTIFUL 

LAWN WORK 

There is no better time than the present for lawn 
work of all kinds, whether it be the planting of new 
ones or the renovation, rolling or fertilization of old 
ones. From now until the cold weather of next win- 
ter comes the grass will make a steady luxurious 
growth, receiving no check, such as is often noticed 
on lawns which were fertilized too early. 

Be sure to fertilize your lawn this month for the 
increasing power of the sun will soon start it into 
vigorous growth. A commercial fertilizer is much 
to be preferred to stable manure full of weed seeds. 
Also seed the places now bare or where weeds are 
so thick that no grass remains after their removal. 

April 

The warm sunshine is peculiarly severe on plants 
at this season when the growth is young and tender, 
and the need for water to keep up this new growth 
is great. A light sprinkling each morning before 
the sun shines too fiercely (better still before sun- 
rise) is an excellent invigorator, but will not take 
the place of the necessary copious irrigation at the 
roots that the plants should have about twice each 
week. This prescription is for herbaceous plants; 
once each week is enough for shrubs of normal 
growth. 

GENERAL WORK 

This is a busy month in the garden; there is all 
kinds of work to keep one busy. It is the last month 
in which spring planting should be done. Now the 
ground is warm enough to induce a quick, vigorous 
growth, and all plants will give satisfaction. When 
watering, do it thoroughly ; sprinkling the top of the 
ground does little good. Get all spraying for plant 



IN CALIFORNIA 177 

pests and diseases done before it gets too hot. Watch 
rose bushes for green aphis and if troubled use to- 
bacco dust freely. 

In this warm weather pansy roots must be kept 
cool and moist or the blossoming will be checked; 
loosen the soil about the plants without disturbing 
the roots, and then give a good mulch of fine stable 
manure. Perform the same office for the amaryllis 
and hippeastrum bulbs, but stir the soil more deeply. 
Thin out plants sown from seeds, if in their proper 
place, or transplant at once. Do not try to save 
sickly ones; they never recuperate satisfactorily. 

SEED SOWING 

Sow in seed boxes perennials like campanula, col- 
umbine, foxglove, daisy, hollyhock, larkspur, pent- 
stemon, gaillardia, coreopsis, also snapdragon. 

Sow in the garden all annuals, especially agera- 
tum, balsam, centaurea, cockscomb, marigold, cos- 
mos, nasturtium, phlox, poppy, portulaca, scabiosa, 
salpiglossis, zinnia; also vines such as Australian 
pea vine, morning glory, cypress vine. 

DIVISION OF PERENNIALS 

If you have not yet divided clumps of goldenrod, 
golden glow, or rudbeckia, etc., by all means do so at 
once before the new growth gets too large. All per- 
ennials should be divided or replanted as quickly as 
possible, for the best growing weather is now with 
us. 

During the present month all canna, caladium, 
cyclamen, banana and dahlia plants still out of the 
soil should be placed in the garden, and as they are 
what is known as tropical bedders, they will be most 
effective if massed, with the tallest at the back; 



178 THE GARDEN BEAUTIFUL 

planted in "bank" effect. Water often and most 
thoroughly. 

BULBS 

Spring bulb flowers will be nearly past now ; gar- 
deners who have been very successful still plant: 
amaryllis, canna, dahlia, gladiolus and tuberose. 

If you wish good tuberous begonias in the open 
ground, plant them now, having a good, rich soil, as 
near to that recommended for pot culture as is pos- 
sible to obtain. In addition to the ordinary single 
and double strains, there are superb varieties that 
should be grown in every garden. These are a great 
improvement on those ordinarily seen in California 
gardens. 

A good compost for potting these begonias con- 
sists of one-third garden loam, one-third leaf mold, 
and the remaining one-third of equal parts of sharp 
sand and well rotted manure. Be sure to place the 
tubers with the hollow sides upward, as all the plant 
growth starts from within this hollow. If in pots, 
put them in a shady place until growth shows 
through the soil, when they may be moved into the 
light and gradually exposed to the forenoon's sun. 
The advantage of starting them in pots is that you 
may use the ground intended for them for spring 
blooming plants and bulbs whose season will be past 
by the time your begonias demand planting out. 

HERBACEOUS PLANTS 

It is not too late to put out bedding plants such as 
salvia, marigold, alternanthera, etc., and they do as 
well as those planted in early spring. 

This is a good time to bed out for permanent ef- 
fect, the very best for geraniums and herbaceous 
plants of their class. Set out : Aster, antirrhinum, 
centaurea, calliopsis, chrysanthemum and celosia. 



IN CALIFORNIA 179 

CARE OF LAWNS 

Lawns will need to be watered often as lawn grass 
does not root over two or three inches deep, but 
water thoroughly and induce deep rooting. 

Some may not have fertilized their lawns as yet, 
though the time is ripe. Try some commercial fer- 
tilizer this spring and note the season's growth of 
grass; these balanced mixtures should prove much 
superior to weed-bearing stable manures. From now 
until winter the grass should make a steady, luxu- 
rious growth, receiving no check. 

May 

During the summer it is not best to water many 
plants during the heat of the day. Water in the 
evening so that the plants may absorb the moisture 
during the night and they will be the better able to 
stand the evaporation occurring during the day; or 
do the sprinkling very early in the morning. 

Throughout the summer the air is generally hot 
and dry and dissipates much of the moisture in- 
tended for plants to consume; consequently it is 
during the prevalence of hot weather and rapid 
growth that plants require food in soluble form. 
Liquid fertilizers are readily absorbed by the feed- 
ing roots and at once assimilated by the tissues of 
plants. The excess of moisture lost through evapo- 
ration is compensated for by the plant food con- 
tained in the part that is absorbed. 

In the case of house and porch plants, small, neat 
beds against the house, etc., it is often impracticable 
to use stable manure, especially if none but the 
coarser kinds are obtainable, but every one, espe- 
cially in the suburbs or country, may keep a supply 
of liquid manure. Fill a common grain sack with 



180 THE GARDEN BEAUTIFUL 

any kind of manure, though the older the better. 
Put it in a barrel and fill with water. After stand- 
ing 24 hours it is ready for use. The barrel can be 
refilled with water several times without replenish- 
ishing the supply of manure, but with each filling 
the water must be allowed to stand a longer time 
hef ore using. 

SEED SOWING 

For later planting in the garden sow seeds of 
primula and calceolaria or set out plants of the same 
raised from former sowings. Seeds of many annuals 
and perennials may still be sown, though nearly all 
seed sowing should be completed this month. 

It is not too late to sow, either in boxes or in seed 
beds or permanent places, seeds of carnation, cos- 
mos, coreopsis, candytuft, centaurea, daisies, digi- 
talis, forget-me-not, gaillardia, marigold, nasturtium, 
phlox, petunia, poppies, salpiglossis and scabiosa. 

BULBS 

If they have been kept in a cool, dark place you 
may still procure and plant dormant bulbs of amaryl- 
lis, allium, begonia, canna, cyclamen, dahlia, freesia, 
gladiolus, iris, scilla, tigridia and tuberose. 

Hyacinths, narcissi and other Holland bulbs will 
now be ripening their tops. If the area they occupy 
is not to be used for other plants they may as well 
remain in present position, but if not they had bet- 
ter be taken up and stored till next season in a cool, 
dry, dark place. Place them in a box of damp sand 
and they will cure as the sand dries. If sand is not 
easily obtainable, well-pulverized soil will do, or take 
up each bulb with some of the surrounding soil still 
adhering to it and let it so remain for a few weeks, 
after which the bulbs may be taken out and kept 
cool and dry until planting season. 



IN CALIFORNIA 181 

HERBACEOUS PLANTS 

Chrysanthemum plants should now be well estab- 
lished in pots and may be put in the garden at once. 
Also set out in the garden plants of antirrhinum, 
aster, balsam, centaurea, dianthus, marigold and 
zinnia. 

Young plants of carnation are now growing vigor- 
ously and are usually too slender. They should have 
the leaders cut or pinched off to induce stocky plants. 
If they are allowed their natural growth they will 
run up in tall, spindly flower stalks, bloom too early 
and produce flowers inferior to those of headed 
plants. 

June 

Little new work or planting should be done at this 
late period, and work during June will consist mainly 
in keeping the garden watered and taking care of it 
in a general way. 

Garden owners of limited experience are too apt 
to neglect their gardens during the early part of 
summer. Having planted, cultivated and watched 
the unfolding of leaf and blossom of spring growth,, 
they rest from their labors in the belief that the sea- 
son's gardening operations are practically over. 

Weeds grow under the stimulus of water and sun- 
shine just as luxuriantly now as in the springtime, 
and the ripening seeds of summer are just as potent 
and productive as those of early harvest days. The 
summer's sun is just now stronger and shines longer 
upon the garden than at any other time of the year ; 
the evaporation and drain upon the soil moisture are 
therefore correspondingly greater. 

Frequent and copious irrigations, followed by thor- 
ough cultivations, must be rigidly practiced, and the 
morning spraying, just before the heat of the sun 



182 THE GARDEN BEAUTIFUL 

strikes the plants, should not be forgotten. Do not 
water and spray in the evening except for special 
plants, as it leaves both soil and air cold and damp 
throughout the night, and the following day with its 
dry heat brings too great a contrast 'twixt night and 
day; this is one of the chief causes of mildew on 
roses, sweet peas, etc., and other fungous diseases. 

In your garden operations aim to equalize condi- 
tions of night and day so far as possible. Spray and 
water in the morning and the plants will have cool, 
moist soil and atmosphere to help withstand the 
desiccating influence of our summer's sun and heat. 
Before nightfall air and plants have taken up the 
moisture, and both atmosphere and soil are dry and 
warm for the night. Aim to equalize the temper- 
ature throughout each twenty-four hours by making 
the night air warmer and the day air cooler. 

If a study is made of atmospheric and soil condi- 
tions we need not have so much of mildew or weak- 
ened plants. Only the sharp contrast in temper- 
ature between day and night prevents us from hav- 
ing perfect roses. Too many think that mildew and 
similar troubles are due to the winter's rains, but 
they are just as prevalent and destructive in the gar- 
den at present as during the rainy season. Then, 
too, England, a country of fog and drizzle, grows the 
finest roses in the world, and the "web-foot" Ore- 
gonians produce the finest on the Pacific Coast, so 
that mere rain supply would appear to be an ad- 
vantage rather than a detriment. 

SOWING AND PLANTING 

Sow stock for early winter flowers and start euca- 
lyptus and cypress from seed for winter planting. 
Seeds of many annuals and perennials may be 
planted if your gardening is late: Carnation, cos- 



IN CALIFORNIA 183 

mos, coreopsis, candytuft, cineraria, centaurea, digi- 
talis, daisy, forget-me-not, gaillardia, marigold, 
phlox, petunia, poppy and salpiglossis. 

This is the last month in which the bulbs of canna, 
dahlia and gladiolus should be planted; also plant: 
Ageratum, balsam, carnation, cosmos, centaurea, 
coreopsis, celosia, daisy, hollyhock, snapdragon, vio- 
let and zinnia. Pelargonium can be started from cut- 
tings now and by next spring will produce strong, 
bushy plants. It is still time to start late flowering 
chrysanthemum. Cuttings can be put in from now 
till the middle of July, and they will produce good 
flowers. 

SEASONABLE SUGGESTIONS 

Small greenhouses in which you are growing ferns, 
begonias and that class of plants should have a 
heavy shading on the glass, and the houses should 
be sprayed every morning in bright weather, and on 
very hot days the woodwork, paths and all absorbent 
surfaces sprayed two or three times a day to keep 
down the temperature, for the nearer you can keep 
the temperature of your greenhouses to 70 degrees 
the better your plants will do. 

Late sweet peas, in cool and coastal sections, are 
now in full bloom and the flowers should be picked 
off, for the forming of one seed pod exhausts the 
plant more than the production of a hundred flowers. 
Mulch the roots with stable litter or clippings from 
the lawn and spray the foliage at least once a day. 
The spraying should be done in the early morn- 
ing. Do all your watering in the morning 
and never spray your plants after noon for they will 
not dry off before night, and this may cause mildew. 

Many rose bushes have had one crop of flowers, 
and the long barren flower stems are sucking up 



184 THE GARDEN BEAUTIFUL 

the plant's vitality at the expense of new flowering 
shoots that are starting vigorously from various 
parts. Cut off these bygone stems, as they interfere 
with food, light and air necessary for the small crop 
of good blossoms you should yet garner. Soon rest- 
ing time will come for roses and you should hasten 
the maturity of the remaining flower crop as much 
as possible. If you are troubled with mildew use 
sulphur sprinkled by hand over vines and surface of 
ground beneath. Do this on a hot day, for it is the 
fumes only, created by the sun's heat, that destroy 
the mildew. 

Sulphur used in cool, cloudy weather avails noth- 
ing, and the fumes rise best from the heated surface 
of the soil. Therefore, spray the vines or bushes first 
with water, very lightly, so that sulphur will lodge 
and stick on the sunny side of the wood, but aim to 
keep the soil surface from getting so wet that sul- 
phur will not "fume." Some old country garden- 
ers put heated bricks beneath rose bushes and sprin- 
kle sulphur on them ; this is an excellent practice if 
one cares to take the trouble and does not get the 
bricks too hot, for sulphur fumes in great volume 
are injurious to all classes of vegetation. For this 
reason scatter sulphur very thinly and evenly or 
foliage in some parts may be damaged on hot days. 

July 

As one wanders along the highways and byways 
during the summer he is oft impressed with the ex- 
quisite beauty of some plant, shrub or tree in a seem- 
ingly neglected garden, so perfectly in health and at 
home that it seems as though specially designed for 
the place. At this time out should come the notebook 
and pencil and down should go the name of such 
plant, for here indeed is the "proof of the pudding." 



IN CALIFORNIA 185 

In no other way may you so surely get a list of plants 
which will endure to the end. 

SOWING AND PLANTING 

You may still sow antirrhinum, Canterbury bell, 
centaurea, cosmos, lobelia, pansy and stock. Con- 
tinue sowing eucalyptus and cypress seeds. 

Great care must be paid to the watering, that 
beds or boxes do not dry out, and if the sun is very 
hot they may be shaded by stretching a piece of 
canvas over a wooden framework and placing this 
over them, a foot or more from the ground, during 
the hottest part of the day. Gradually remove this 
covering until the plants are perfectly strong and 
stocky. They are then ready for transplanting into 
flats, boxes or pots. 

Carnation, cosmos, coreopsis, candytuft, cen- 
taurea, daisy, digitalis, forget-me-not, gaillardia, 
marigold, phlox, petunia, salpiglossis, scabiosa and 
violet may still be planted. 

SEASONABLE SUGGESTIONS 

Those bulbs now in the ripening stage, should be 
taken up when the tops have died down and placed 
in boxes of damp sand in a cool place and allowed to 
cure as the sand dries. Well pulverized earth will 
do if you have no sand. 

Pelargoniums are now in full bloom. These plants 
do not require very rich soil and should be kept on 
the dry side. If kept too wet the foliage will shrivel 
up, and if given too rich soil they make all foliage 
and no flowers. The foliage or flowers should never 
get wet. 

When through watering, do not leave the hose at- 
tached to the hydrant. Take it off, coil it up and 
hang on a peg, stub of a tree, limb or something suit- 



186 THE GARDEN BEAUTIFUL 

able. With such treatment a hose will last at least 
twice as long as if left lying on the ground full of 
water. 

Keeping cut flowers for a considerable time is very 
easy at this season if a little care is taken. Every 
day or two, in addition to changing the water, cut off 
a quarter to half an inch of the stem. This removes 
the portion with the pores closed by congealed sap 
and allows the water free access to the stem. 

Insect pests are hatching every day and must be 
combated in every way possible. While some propa- 
gate on leaf and twig the more voracious sorts are 
hatched or developed in some stage in the soil, so that 
frequent and thorough stirring of the surface will 
destroy many of them and also expose them to the 
predatory birds and garden toads. 

August 

During the summer months when many bushes 
and vines are still covered with bloom there is a dis- 
position among home gardeners to regard their work 
as finished and to rest on their laurels, as it were. 
There is a tendency to neglect the flower garden, to 
let it take care of itself, and neglect now is more 
fatal than at any other period. Just a little neglect 
now means destruction to some of the beautiful 
plants that cost time and money. 

Neglect now will give the aphis and other insect 
enemies a chance to get in some very deadly work. 
Neglect in tying up the long stalks of late gladiolus 
will cause them to fall during wind storms. Neglect 
in watering plants of all kinds will cause them to dry 
up, wither and die, defeating the object for which 
they were planted. Neglect to use the hoe will give 
the weeds a chance to grow and crowd out the flow- 
ers. In short, neglect of any kind will undo much 



IN CALIFORNIA 187 

of the good work that was done earlier in the sea- 
son. 

SOWING AND PLANTING 

This is the best month in the year in which to sow 
hardy perennials. Most varieties if sown this month 
will flower the next year. Also sow calceolaria, 
cineraria, columbine, calendula, Canterbury bell, cos- 
mos, lobelia, pansy, pink, primula, petunia and ver- 
bena. Continue growing eucalyptus and cypress 
seeds. 

Those who have shady beds should grow cinera- 
rias. The proper directions for sowing and the care 
of young seedlings will be found upon trade packets. 
But remember that at every stage of its career the 
cineraria is a cool weather plant and must not be 
exposed to full sunshine during the middle of the 
day. Many of the colors are unknown in other 
plants and consist of what is known as metallic 
shades, ranging from white to purple. While excel- 
lent as a short season autumn bedding plant the 
cineraria is a good subject for potting, and in either 
situation requires a loose rich soil and frequent feed- 
ings of weak liquid manure. It must be carefully 
protected from plant lice, its greatest enemy. 

You may still plant out: Carnation, cosmos, 
coreopsis, candytuft, centaurea, digitalis, daisy, 
gaillardia, marigold, phlox, petunia, salpiglossis, 
scabiosa and violet. 

SEASONABLE SUGGESTIONS 

Don't water roses this or next month at all. Let 
the soil dry out and rest the plants. 

House plants will dry out fast these long days. 
Watch them closely and never let the plants get wilt- 
ing dry. Spray the foliage as often as you can find 



188 THE GARDEN BEAUTIFUL 

time and you will be rewarded with a stronger and 
healthier growth. 

Chrysanthemums will assimilate all the water you 
may give them from now until the last bloom is 
picked. Until the color of the buds shows also fer- 
tilize heavily. Neglect at this time with water means 
failure of the flower crop. 

Dahlias that bloomed early and were cut down will 
now be coming on for a fall crop of blossoms. Those 
cut down now, if well watered and fertilized, will 
yield a splendid show of color in November. Too 
many of our dahlias bloom in hot weather, and they 
are by no means a hot weather flower. Flowers in 
April and May and October and November are by 
far better than those of midsummer. 

September 

The month of September may well be regarded as 
one of the most important in the calendar of garden 
operations. It is during this period that every owner 
of a garden should make preparations for the late 
autumn and winter floral display. 

Do not wait until the planting time is over, and 
autumn and winter annuals and perennials have 
come into flower, and you notice them in your neigh- 
bor's garden, to find out that you want them. Either 
make your preparations to get them in in proper sea- 
son or save the money. 

SEED SOWING 

Sow pansy seed this month, and another important 
winter flowering bedder for putting in at present is 
stock. Also sow: Columbine, calendula, candytuft 
and forget-me-not. 

A few cosmos seed sown at this season will give 



IN CALIFORNIA 189 

you a fine show of bloom by November and on dwarf 
plants which require no staking. 

A pinch of mignonette seed sown in September 
will give you an abundance of fine blooms right 
through the winter. It is hardy, easily grown and 
exceedingly fragrant. The best variety to sow is 
the French variety, Machet. 

This is the month for the first sowing of winter 
sweet peas, and followed in October by a second one, 
will give you an abundant succession of cut flowers 
right up to the time when the late flowered Spencer 
varieties or those of the grandiflora type begin to 
produce blossoms. We have no winter and early 
spring crop of flowers that surpasses the up-to-date 
strains of sweet peas. 

BULBS 

Commence planting hyacinth, tulip, anemone and 
other Dutch bulbs toward the end of the month, also 
amaryllis, calla, f reesia and iris. 

This is the time of the year to divide your clumps 
of German iris. If allowed to stand several seasons 
the rhizomes become crowded and the blooms subse- 
quently produced are small and on short stems. 

Make a planting during this month of ranunculus 
and anemone. There is nothing finer in existence for 
spring and winter show than these lovely bulbous 
plants, and they give more satisfactory results than 
anything of like price in the garden. Anemone put 
in during the month of September often produces 
flowers at Christmas. 

Begin at once to prepare beds intended for bulbs. 
This work should be done several days in advance 
of the actual planting time. Dig them over thor- 
oughly and deeply. Incorporate plenty of rotted 
manure and turn over several times. The majority 



190 THE GARDEN BEAUTIFUL 

of bulbous plants require a light loamy soil which is 
well drained. There are few which do well in soils 
of a heavy nature. 

BEDDING PLANTS 

Prick off calceolaria and primula sown last month, 
into pots, and continue sowing same for succession. 

Beds which have contained summer annuals, such 
as asters, etc., may be filled out with stock, Canter- 
bury bell, centaurea, sweet William, gaillardia, sal- 
piglossis, columbine, antirrhinum, perennial co- 
reopsis, foxglove, pentstemon ; all of which are inex- 
pensive and will provide a bountiful supply of flow- 
ers both for garden ornamentation and for cutting 
purposes. 

Dead and dying flower stems, leaves, etc., should 
be gathered and burned or composted. If allowed to 
cumber the ground they will all too soon begin to 
harbor insects, and in the process of decay produce 
fungous diseases. If one has a place for a compost 
heap, the leaves and herbaceous material may easily 
be taken care if. If burned, the ashes may be re- 
turned to the soil with good profit, as they contain a 
considerable quantity of potash and still more of 
lime, both good substances to apply to lawn or gar- 
den soils. 

AUTUMN LAWNS 

Don't forget that fall lawn planting may be done 
in September with excellent results. A fallacious 
idea is somewhat prevalent in California that lawns 
are best put in during the winter months. When 
sown at that period there is a natural germination 
of all weed seeds, which entails a vast amount of 
labor for their removal. 

Sown at this season blue grass and clover germ- 



IN CALIFORNIA 191 

inate rapidly, the former in about eight to ten days 
and the latter in five to six days. If properly put in, 
a dense bright green mat will form that will be 
ready for cutting in six to seven weeks. It should 
grow so dense that it will choke out in large measure, 
and prevent the germination of, the crop of winter 
weeds. In purchasing either blue grass or clover 
seed insist upon having the highest quality. 

TIMELY PRUNING 

Look over Cherokee rose hedges during this month 
and should they require pruning do it at once. To 
delay and prune later is proper with those roses of 
the noisette type, such as La Marque, Reve d'Or, etc., 
but is fatal to best results in the spring blooming 
of the Cherokees. 

During this month cut back, but not too severely, 
hedges of lantana, heliotrope, geranium, etc. With 
many plants of this character there is a heavy crop 
of seed during autumn, which saps their vitality. 
Trimming them at this period removes the seed and 
induces a fresh growth of young shoots, which ex- 
tends their blooming season to the middle of winter. 

October 

The month of October should be a busy one in all 
California gardens, for it stands much in the same 
relation to us as do April and May in the snow- 
bound eastern states. Among the flowers it is bulb 
month. 

The dry, rainless period is nearly over and ere 
long the first rains of autumn will wake to life every 
dormant seed, bulb, and plant. Soon the whole 
country will be clothed with beauteous green and 
brilliant blossoms. Gardening should be so ordered 



192 THE GARDEN BEAUTIFUL 

that cultivated crops will harmonize and keep pace 
with the fullness of vegetative life about us. 

SEED SOWING 

Make a sowing of California poppy and other na- 
tive seeds during this month, doing it at this time 
will give them a long growing season and the full 
advantage of the winter rains. 

It is also just the time to sow hardy annuals and 
perennials for bedding plants. The list of these is : 
calendula, Canterbury bell, centaurea, cineraria, 
coreopsis, columbine, dianthus, forget-me-not, fox- 
glove, larkspur, lobelia, mignonette, pansy, phlox, 
salpiglossis, scabiosa, snapdragon, stock, and sweet 
pea. 

BULBS 

October is the best month for plantings of Spanish 
iris, cyclamen, freesia, and gladiolus in the early 
flowering varieties, the Bride, Blushing Bride, and 
Peachblow. Also plant watsonias, lilies, and all 
those bulbs that are known to gardeners as Dutch 
bulbs. These are such as anemones, hyacinths, nar- 
cissi, ranunculi and tulips. 

In planting any of the latter it will be well to 
drop a little sharp sand in the hole before filling in 
with soil. This method will often prevent rot in case 
the soil is kept too wet. A most important factor 
of success in the growing of bulbous plants is to 
have soil in a sweet, friable condition. They are 
fond of plenty of manure. 

Arrange bulb beds so that you can follow with suc- 
cessive plantings during November and December. 
Take for example the matter of planting narcissi, 
or daffodils as they are more commonly called. By 
making a first planting now, a second in November 
and a third as late as the fifteenth of December, you 



IN CALIFORNIA 193 

can have a constant succession of blooms from late 
February up to the first of May. 

Build the beds with ridges at the sides so that they 
may be watered by flooding. This gives infinitely 
better results than sprinkling. Once bulbs are 
planted mulch the surface with one inch to an inch 
and a half of good fibrous manure; this retards the 
evaporation and tends to keep the under soil cool 
and moist. Bulbs in general give much better results 
when no surface cultivation is resorted to. The 
mulch referred to eliminates the necessity of culti- 
vation. It prevents the ground from either cracking, 
which is the case in soils of a heavy nature, or from 
drying out in those of a lighter character. 

HERBS, SHRUBS AND TREES 

Plant out in permanent place in the garden : Calen- 
dula, cineraria, columbine, lobelia, pansy, pink, pri- 
mula, petunia, and verbena. 

October is the time for planting evergreen shrubs 
and trees, and conifers of all sorts handle well at this 
season. The soft summer growths are now hardened 
up and the operation of transplanting may be done 
without endangering the life of the plant. 

The mild days, with the cool nights and mornings 
of a California autumn, cause but little evaporation 
of sap from the foliage; the new feeder roots put 
forth at once, and with the advent of winter rains 
new growths of stem and foliage spring forth with 
surprising rapidity. The moving at this season 
gives a well established tree or shrub in a short space 
of time. 

One of the most important matters for immediate 
consideration is attention to roses. The fall growths 
begin to push out during this month and it is time to 
prune out all the thin straggly growth, leaving the 



194 THE GARDEN BEAUTIFUL 

plump, well-ripened canes which have plenty of 
healthy eyes of the previous spring's growth. If you 
are pruning dormant wood from rose bushes at 
present you had best make cuttings from it. 

All the best roses are borne on the new quick 
growing canes which spring from the base of the 
plant or from the well ripened eyes a little higher up. 
Mulch the beds with two or three inches of any well 
rotted manure after pruning. Then flood with water 
either by means of basins around the plant or by 
trenches along the sides. Don't sprinkle your plants 
overhead and expect results. Put the water where 
it belongs, at the roots, and you will have good flow- 
ers if you did not force them to grow during the last 
two months. 

SEASONABLE SUGGESTIONS 

Many common garden plants may easily be propa- 
gated in a box of sand at this time of the year. 
Among these are: begonia, coleus, fuchsia, helio- 
trope, marguerite, etc. If left sixty days later it 
would be impossible to root them except in a green- 
house. 

For a dry, hot place plant some of the old-fash- 
ioned lavender. It will grow and bloom without 
water during our California summers and is very 
useful for filling sachets or placing in bureau draw- 
ers, not alone for the perfume but to keep away 
moths and other insects. 

Just as summer is closing is a good time to take 
note of trees, shrubs and plants that have withstood 
the hard conditions of summer. Some valuable ob- 
ject lessons may be found in every community that 
should prove a guide in the selection of next season's 
planting list. It is not sufficient to take mental note 
of these points — a notebook for the purpose should 
be carried. October is a good time for lawn making. 



IN CALIFORNIA 195 

November 

Village improvement societies are now on the alert 
regarding time, material and manner of planting 
school grounds, public squares, parks and streets. 
Now is a good time for all preliminary work, for soil 
is easily worked. Even municipalities, as well as 
lesser communities, evince unusual activity just at 
this season, for it seems that with the coming of the 
rains all the earth must be gay — made spick and 
span — the natural season for festivity in California. 

SEED SOWING 

The following seeds should be sown now for a 
good crop of spring flowers; antirrhinum or snap- 
dragon, clarkia, candytuft, eschscholtzia, or Califor- 
nia poppy, Shirley poppy, and poppies in variety ; ten 
weeks stock, larkspur, leptosyne, Gypsophila elegans, 
pansy, saponaria, lychnis or viscaria, Virginia stock, 
centaurea imperialis, C. Emperor William, calen- 
dula or pot marigold, Prince of Orange and Meteor. 

It is a very good time to sow sweet peas now. It 
brings them into bloom just when they produce the 
largest and best flowers. It will pay to spade up the 
ground just as deeply as possible, even to two feet. 
Dig in a liberal supply of well-rotted manure, and 
work the soil over until in a friable condition before 
sowing. This gives not only a good depth of soil, but 
that good drainage which is so necessary to the suc- 
cessful growth of first class sweet peas. Keep them 
free from weeds and the surface well loosened at all 
times. 

BULBS 

At no other season of the year may so many bulbs 
be planted with both pleasure and profit as the few 
weeks from now until New Year's Day. This is 



196 THE GARDEN BEAUTIFUL 

peculiarly the time for what is known as Dutch 
bulbs, and so strongly do they manifest their desire 
to grow that they will put forth leaves even in the 
dry air of the living-room if laid upon the bare table. 
Planted in almost any soil, they rapidly spring into 
life and soon give fine heads or sprays of flowers. 

Anemone, freesia, early-flowering gladiolus, hya- 
cinth, iris, ixia, jonquil, lily, montbretia, narcissus, 
ornithogalum, ranunculus, sparaxis and tulip are 
some of the most popular bulbs to plant now, and all 
may be obtained at any seed store and also of some 
of the florists and nurserymen. Do not plant your 
ranunculus or anemone upside down ; plant ranuncu- 
lus with the claws down and the anemone with the 
smoothest side down. This is more easily distin- 
guished after they have been soaked two hours. 

TIMELY PROPAGATION 

At this time you should take cuttings of soft wood 
and tender herbaceous plants such as : alternanthera, 
begonia, coleus, fuchsia, heliotrope, Impatiens sul- 
tani, marguerite, etc. Bottom heat is not needed 
though better results can be obtained with such a 
convenience. 

Get a box of clean sharp sand, see that the drain- 
age is perfect — plenty of holes in the bottom, wet 
the sand down thoroughly, put your cuttings in a slit 
made with a knife or thin paddle, press sand around 
cuttings and wet down. Watch them closely and 
don't allow them to dry. 

SEASONABLE SUGGESTIONS 

Cut back pentstemons this month to within eight 
inches of the ground and they will come up stronger 
and bloom better next year. 

Violets will shortly be at their best, and the time 



IN CALIFORNIA 197 

to fertilize for blooms is now. Give the beds a liberal 
mulch of manure and see that they get plenty of 
water without overdoing it. The rains should relieve 
you of this from now on. 

Nearly all hardy perennial flowering plants do 
well if put in at this season. By planting now they 
receive the benefit of the winter rains, start new root 
action, produce an abundance of bloom in spring, and 
become thoroughly established, thus enabling them 
to better withstand the heat of summer. 

We are now at the secondary period of bulb plant- 
ing, the most important operation of all fall garden 
work. With seasonable weather at hand this work 
should be prosecuted with vigor if you expect to ob- 
tain a full return in a wealth of flowers from the 
spring garden. We advise the thorough preparation 
of the soil ; dig the ground deeply and thoroughly, 
incorporating a plentiful supply of well rotted man- 
ure. The better the tilth of the soil, the more satis- 
factory will be the results. 

THE ROSE GARDEN 

Now is the time to attend to roses if heretofore 
neglected. Where the bushes have been dried off 
during the summer, for winter flowers all the weak 
wood should be cut away and the stronger branches 
cut back heavily, as this treatment will induce 
longer stems and a better quality of flowers. Such 
roses should then be watered thoroughly. 

Should the bushes be expected to produce a crop 
of bloom, both for winter and spring, it will be found 
best to cut away only the weak wood entirely, and 
the stronger growth just enough to balance the plant 
nicely, and then prune more heavily the latter part 
of February. Proper treatment necessarily varies, 



198 THE GARDEN BEAUTIFUL 

according to the harshness of winter in your section 
of the state. 

Give the soil a good dressing of well rotted manure 
and spade under a few inches only, for if spaded too 
deeply the roots are liable to be injured, and the 
bushes will need all the root action possible to de- 
velop first-class flowers. A deeper spading may be 
given in the spring. 

December 

There is no time like the present to give the garden 
a general overhauling, to attend to the manuring 
and spading up of all vacant beds and borders. 
After spading leave the ground in a rough state, 
that is, don't rake it down, as the sun and air will 
do more good, and it will leave the ground in a more 
friable condition than if raked down too smooth. 
Don't be afraid to enrich abundantly, as the ground 
will be in better condition for spring planting. 

SEED SOWING 

Now is the time to plant sweet peas. With proper 
cultivation there is nothing that yields such a boun- 
teous harvest as sweet peas, and a sowing of sca- 
biosa made at this period will give a splendid display 
of bloom in early spring. 

Seeds of all garden annuals of hardy sorts may 
safely be sown now, and sweet peas are always on 
the autumn and winter planting list. Specific sorts 
for planting in the general garden now are arctotis, 
dianthus, phlox, salvia and all the "old-fashioned" 
garden inmates known to eastern gardens. 

Among other seeds that can be planted during De- 
cember, the plants of which will give you a fine dis- 
play of spring blossoms, are sweet alyssum, calen- 
dula, winter marigold, California poppy, baby blue- 



IN CALIFORNIA 199 

eye, candytuft, of which Emperor and hyacinth- 
flowered are the two best strains, forget-me-not, 
larkspur, in the annual sorts, mignonette, pansy, 
salpiglossis, snapdragon, stock, annual calliopsis, 
foxglove, and verbena. 

' BULBS 

If you would have a display of blooms from bulb- 
ous plants, now is the time to act. December is the 
last call for bulbs. If space is limited and you would 
like to make use of the ground for spring blooms, 
all dormant bulbs, dahlia, for example, should now 
be taken up and stored in a cool, dry place until 
March or April. 

The anemone, narcissus, or daffodil, single and 
double, in shades of orange, yellow and white, the 
Dutch hyacinth, tulip, Spanish iris, early and late 
flowering gladiolus, lily, Roman hyacinth, ixia, ra- 
nunculus, sparaxis, freesia, ornithogalum (Star of 
Bethlehem) , cyclamen, montbretia, and German iris 
should all be planted immediately. 

GENERAL PLANTING 

Now is the time to plant roses. Planted now they 
will be forming new roots, the tops will be dormant, 
but with pulsing spring the buds will swell and soon 
make a growth that will produce blooms to fill the 
garden with fragrance and beauty. All hardy peren- 
nials, vines, ornamental deciduous trees and shrubs, 
as well as hardy evergreen shrubs and trees and 
conifers, may be planted. 

If you have not yet planted pansies, prepare a bed 
of rich, light, well-pulverized soil in a warm, sunny 
place so that you may have pansy blossoms in spring 
and early summer. Now is a good time to stir all- 
soil whether for immediate use or otherwise. Turn 



200 THE GARDEN BEAUTIFUL 

it up and allow it to get thoroughly aired and sunned ; 
after a time level it down, and when beaten solid by- 
rains, spade up deeply again. If fertilizer is put in 
at the first spading, a well-mixed, resourceful soil 
will be the result. 

SEASONABLE SUGGESTIONS 

Chrysanthemums may be taken up and tempo- 
rarily planted in some waste piece of ground. Then 
dig up the ground, enrich with well rotted manure, 
and you are ready to make a planting. 

Do not be snipping off the ends of branches on 
deciduous shrubs that are now dormant or becoming 
so, or you will rob the plants of the best of their 
spring's crop of bloom; they should be pruned only 
immediately after flowering. Neither prune any 
plant or vine that is very tender, for the frost may 
do it for you, and the growth so injured may protect 
the balance of the plant from injury or death during 
a very cold spell. 

Now is the time when all clumps of cannas, caladi- 
ums, etc., should be taken up and stored in a cool, 
dry place. Late March or early April will be early 
enough for replanting. While it is not necessary to 
remove them no advantage accrues from leaving 
them in the soil, and if old masses of roots are left 
for years, they do not thrive as well as if divided. 
It is also advisable, if their room is more desirable 
than their presence, to so store clumps of golden- 
rod, golden glow and other vigorous, free-rooting 
perennials. 

Do not fertilize lawns. The great disadvantage of 
fertilizing too early is to force a nice green growth 
at the time we are expecting our cold weather and 
the consequence is it makes a spurt, and when it 
should look nice in early spring it stops growing and 



IN CALIFORNIA 



201 



looks brown. It has been forced from its natural 
resting time, the tender growth is frozen, and it 
takes its rest toward spring when the fertilizer has 
exhausted its forcing qualities. February and March 
will be found the best time to manure lawns, and 
from that time there will be a luxuriant growth until 
winter. 




GLOSSARY 



The following list of scientific names, with definitions, embraces 
all those in more common use. The definitions are not all literal but 
the meaning as applied to plants. 

A, at the beginning of words of Greek derivation, commonly signi- 
fies a negative : as aptera = wingless ; from a, without, and ptera, wiDg ; 
acaulis, a, without, caulis, stem= stemless. 



acantha, spine, 
acaulis, stemless. 
acicularis, sickleshaped. 
aculeata, spiny, 
acuminata, taper-pointed, 
acuta, sharp-pointed, 
adeno, glandular, 
affine, related, 
alata, winged, 
alba, white, 
albicans, whitish, 
albo-lineata, white-lined, 
alnifolia, alder-leaved, 
alpestre, alpine, rocky, 
amabilis, lovely, 
amoena, pleasing, 
amorpha, formless, 
ampla, large, 
angusta, narrow, 
aptera, wingless, 
aquatica, water-loving, 
aquifolia, holly-leaved, 
arborescens, tree-like, 
arenaria, sand-loving, 
argentea, silvery, 
argyrea, silvery, 
aristata, awned. bearded, 
armata, armed, 
articulata, jointed, 
aspera, rough. 
Atlantica, Atlantic, 
atrosanguinea, dark-red. 
atrovirens, dark-green, 
attenuata, thin, 
aurantiaca, orange-colored, 
aurea, golden, 
auriculata, eared, 
aurita, eared, 
australis, southern, 
azurea, blue. 

baccata, berry-like, 
bacillaris, rod-like, 
barbata, barbed, 
bella, charming, 
bicolor, two-colored, 
bifida, two-cleft, 
biflora, two-flowered, 
bifurcata, two-forked, 
blpinnata, twice-pinnate. 



brachy, short, 
brevifolia, short-leaved, 
bulbifera, bulb-bearing. 

caespitosa, many-headed, 
calycina, cup-shaped, 
campanulata, bell-shaped. 
Canariensis, Canary Islands. 
Candida, white, 
canescens, hoary. 
Capensis, Cape of Good Hope, 
capillaris, hair-bearing, 
capitata, headed, 
cardinalis, cardinal-red. 
carnea, flesh-colored, 
carpa, fruit, 
caudata, tailed, 
cerifera, wax-bearing, 
chlorophylla, green-leaved, 
chrysantha, yellow flowered, 
ciliaris, hair-fringed, 
ciliata, silky-haired, 
cinerea, ash-colored, 
circinata, rolled upwards, 
citrina, lemon-yellow, 
citriodora, lemon-scented, 
clavatus, club-shaped, 
coccifera, berry-bearing, 
coccinea, scarlet, 
coerulea, blue, 
collina, hill, 
communis, common, 
concolor, one-color, 
conferta, dense, 
congesta, close-headed, 
contorta, twisted, 
cordata, heart-shaped, 
coriacea, leathery, 
cornigera. horn-bearing, 
cornuta, horned, 
coronata. crowned, 
crassifolia. thick-leaved, 
crenata, scallop-edged, 
cretacea, chalked. 
Cretan, Island of Crete. 
Cretica, Island of Crete, 
crispa, curled, 
cristata, crested, 
cucullata, hooded, 
cuneata, wedge-shaped. 



THE GARDEN BEAUTIFUL 



203 



cupressina, cypress-like, 
cyanea, blue. 

dealbata, powdery. 

deca-, ten. 

decandra, ten-stemmed. 

decipiens, deceiving. 

decora, comely. 

decurrens, prolonged on stem. 

decussata, opposing pairs. 

deflexa, bending. 

demissa, low. 

denticulata, toothed. 

dependens, banging. 

digitata, fingered. 

discolor, various-colored. 

disticba, two-ranked. 

divaricata, straggling. 

dulcis, sweet. 

dumosa, busby. 

eburnea, ivory-like, 
echinata, bedge-bog-like. 
edulis, edible, 
elata, tall, 
elongata, trailing, 
emarginata, notched at tip. 
ericoides, heath-like, 
eriocarpa, wooly-fruited. 
esculenta, edible, 
exaltata, high, 
excelsa, tall, 
eximea, excellent. 

falcata, sickle-shaped. 

farinosa, mealy. 

fasciculata, close-clustered. 

fastigiata, parallel and upright. 

ferox, fierce. 

ferruginea, rusty. 

ficifolia, fig-leaved. 

filamentosa, thready. 

filifera, thread-bearing. 

fimbriata, fringed. 

flabella, fan-shaped. 

flagella, whip-shaped. 

flammea, fiery. 

flava, yellow. 

flexuosa, waved ziz-zaggly. 

flore-plena, double-flowered. 

floribunda, free-flowering. 

florida, florid. 

foetida, stinking. 

folia, foliage. 

foliosa, leafy. 

formosa, beautiful. 

fragrans, fragrant. 

frigida, stiff, frosty. 

fruticosa, shrubby. 

fulgens, glowing, brilliant. 

funebris, funereal, dismal. 

genus, rank above species, 
gigas, giant, 
glabra, smooth, 
gladiata, sword-like. 



glauca, milky-white, 
glutinosa, sticky, 
gracile, slender, 
gracillima, graceful, 
graminea, grass-like, 
grandis, splendid, great, 
graveolens, strong-smelling, 
guttata, spotted. 

hastata, spear-shaped. 

hederacea, ivy-like. 

hepta, seven. 

herbacea, berb-like. herbaceous. 

heterophylla, variable-leaved. 

hexa, six. 

hirsuta, hairy. 

hirta, hairy. 

hispida, hairy. 

hortensis, garden. 

humilis, dwarf. 

hystrix, bristly. 

-ifera, bearing, 
ignea, fiery, 
ilicifolia, holly-leaved, 
imbricata, overlapping, 
incisa, deeply-cut. 
Indica, Indian, 
indigenous, native, 
indivisa, undivided, simple, 
inermis, unarmed, 
integrifolia, entire-leaved. 

juncea, rush-like. 

labiata, lipped, 
laciniata, deeply-cut. 
lacta, milky. 

laevigata, smooth-stemmed, 
lanata, wooly. 
lanceolata, lance-shaped, 
lasiocarpa, wooly-fruited. 
latifolia, broad-leaved, 
laurifolia, laurel-leaved, 
laxa, loose. 

leucorrhiza, white-rooted, 
leucoxylon, white-wooded, 
lignosus, woody, 
linearis, narrow-leaved, 
lineata, lined, 
lingua, tongued. 
linifolia, flax-leaved, 
lobata, lobed. 
longifolia, long-leaved, 
longipes, long-stalked, 
lophanta, crested, 
lucida, shiny, 
lunata, crescent-shaped. 
Lusitanica, Portugal. 

macro, large. 

macrophylla, large-leaved, 
maculata, spotted, 
majalis, May. 
major, greater, 
majus, large, 
marmora, marbled. 



204 



THE GARDEN BEAUTIFUL 



maxima, largest. 

media, middle. 

mega, large. 

megarhiza, large-rooted. 

melan, black. 

micro, small. 

microphylla, small-leaved. 

miniata, vermillion. 

minor, less. 

mirabilis, wonderful. 

mitis, small. 

molle, soft. 

mollissima, soft. 

mono-, one. 

monophylla, one-leaved. 

montana. mountain. 

moschata, musky. 

multi-, many. 

multiflora, many-flowered. 

muricata, short, hard pointed. 

mutabilis, changeable. 

myrio, many. 

myriophylla, many-leaves. 

myrtifolia, myrtle-leaved. 

nana, dwarf, 
nemorale, wood, 
neriifolia, oleander-leaved, 
nervata, veined, 
nigra, black, 
nitida, shining, 
nivea, snowy, 
nodiflora, knot-flowered, 
nodosa, knotty, knobby, 
nucifera, nut-bearing, 
nuda, naked, 
nutans, nodding. 

ob-, signifies inversion. 

obcordata, heart-shaped apex. 

obovata, broad end outward. 

obtusa, blunt. 

occidentalis, western. 

ocellata, eyed. 

ochra-leuca, yellowish-white. 

octo-, eight. 

odorata, sweet-scented. 

-oides, like, similar. 

orientalis, eastern. 

ornata, adorned. 

ovata, egg-shaped. 

oxygona, sharp-angled. 

-oxylon, wood. 

oxypetala, sharp-petalled. 

pallida, pale, 
palustre, marsh, 
paniculata, panicled. 
papyrifera, paper-bearing, 
parviflora, small-flowered, 
patens, spreading, 
pauclflora, few-flowered, 
pectinata, comb-like, 
pedata, bird-footed, 
peltata, stem in center, 
pendula, drooping. 



penta, five. 

pentaphylla, five-leaved. 
Persica, Persia, 
phylla, leaf, 
picta, painted, 
pinnata, divided, 
platy phylla, broad-leaved, 
plumosa, feathery, 
podophylla, foot-leaved, 
poly-, many. 

polypodium, many-footed, 
populifolia, poplar-leaved, 
primulina, primrose-yellow, 
princeps, princely, 
procumbens, trailing, 
pruinata, frosted, 
pseudo, false, like, 
pubescens, downy, 
pudica, chaste. 

pugioniformis, dagger-shaped, 
pulchella, pretty, 
pulchra, beautiful, 
pulverulenta, powdery, 
pumila, small, 
punicea, reddish, 
pusilla, diminutive, 
pygmea, dwarf. 

quadri-, four, 
quinata, in fives, 
quinquifolia, five-lobed. 

racemosa, racemed. 
radiata, radiating, 
radicans, rooting, 
ramosa, branched, 
ramosissima, much-branched, 
reclinata, curved downwards, 
reniforme, kidney-shaped, 
repens, creeping, 
reticulata, netted, 
revoluta, rolled back, 
rhododendron, rose-tree, 
rhombifolia, diamond-leaved, 
ringens, gaping open, 
riparia, river-bank, 
rosea, rosy, 
rostrata, beaked, 
rotundifolia, round-leaved, 
rubens, reddish, 
rubra, red. 
rugosa, wrinkled. 

salicifolia, willow-leaved, 
sanguinea, blood-colored, 
sarmentosa, flexible-twiggy, 
sativa, cultivated, 
saxitile, rock, 
scabra, rough, 
scandens, climbing, 
scoparia, broom-like, 
semi-, half. 

semper, ever. always, 
semper-aurea, ever-golden. 
6emperflorens, ever-flowering, 
sempervirens, evergreen. 



IN CALIFORNIA 



205 



senile, white-haired, 
serotina, late, 
serrata, saw-leaved, 
serrulata, saw-leaved, 
sessile, stemless. 
siliqua, bearing long pods. 
Sinensis, Chinese, 
sparsa, few. 

species, rank below genus. 
speciosa, showy, 
spectabilis, showy, 
spicata, spiked, 
spiralis, spiral, 
stellata, star-like, 
striata, striped, 
stricta, upright, 
suaveolens, sweet-scented, 
subulata, awl-shaped, 
sulphurea, sulphur-yellow, 
sylvatica, of woods, 
sylvestris, of woods. 

tenella,* delicate, small, 
tenuifolia, narrow-leaved, 
tenuis, slender, 
tetra-, four. 

tetrandra, four-stemmed, 
tigrinum, striped, 
tinctoria, dyer's, 
tomentosa, downy, 
torulosa, twisted. 
toxica, poison, 
toxifera, poison-bearing, 
tri,- three. 



triangulare, three-angled, 
tricolor, three-colored, 
trifida, three-cleft, 
triflora, three-flowered, 
triloba, three-lobed. 
truncata, square-cut tip. 

ulmifolia, elm-leaved. 

umbraculifera, umbrella-bearing. 

undulata. wavy. 

uni-, one. 

uniflora, one-flowered. 

urticifolia, nettle-leaved. 

variety, rank below species, 
velutina, velvety, 
venosa. veined, 
ventricosa, inflated, 
venusta, lovely, 
vera, true. 

versicolor, various-colored, 
verticillata, whorled. 
vesca, edible, 
vestita, clothed, 
viminea, slender-twiggy, 
violacea, violet, 
virens, green, 
viridiflora, green-flowered, 
viscosa, clammy, 
vitella, yellowish, 
vittata, striped, 
vivipara, plant-bearing, 
volubilis, twining, 
vulgaris, common. 



INDEX 



Aberia 51 

Acacia 38, 39, 54 

Achras 52 

Akebia 58 

Albizzia 39, 48 

Altbea 54, 56 

Ampelopsis 62 

Annuals, general 71 

native 72, 73 

exotic and garden 74, 78 

Anona 51 

Antigonon 62 

Ants 153, 155, 158 

Aphis 155, 156, 160 

Aquariums 92 

Araucaria 42 

Arbor (illus.) 9 

Arbor-vitae 42, 43 

Aristolocbia 62 

Ash 48,54,55 

Asparagus 58 

pink 48 

Avocado 51 

Backgrounds for gardens 21 

Bacteria for clover 29 

Bamboo 49, 50 

Barberry 56 

Beaumontia 58 

Bedding Plants 190 

Beefwood 39, 53 

Begonias 106 

Bermuda Grass 33 

Big Tree 40 

Bignonia 58 

Blue Grass 28 

Borders, house 84 

Bottle Brush 54, 55 

Bougainvillea 58 

Box Elder 48 

Bridal Wreath 56 

Broussonetia 48 

Bulbs, general 109 

Dutch or Holland 120, 121 

fertilizers for 121, 122 

see garden calendar 161 

Bunya-bunya 42 

Cactus 68, 69 

Calendar, garden 161-201 

Canna 80 

Cape Chestnut 39 

Carissa 51 

Carnations 81, 83, 167, 181 

Carob Tree 39, 55 

Casimiroa 51 

Casuarina 39, 53 

Caterpillars 158 



Cedar, true 43, 54 

incense 41, 46 

white 43 

red 43, 54, 55 

Port Orford 45 

Japan 46, 54 

Ceratonia 39, 55 

Cherimoya 51 

Chestnut, true 48 

cape 39 

Chrysanthemum 143 

propagation 143, 172, 173 

planting 146, 181 

training 146 

staking 147 

fertilizing 148 

disbudding 148 

kinds of buds 149 

pot culture 150 

sorts to grow 151 

history 151 

Clover, for lawns 27, 29 

Coffee Tree 54 

Conifers 39-46 

Cotoneaster 56 

Cottonwood 48, 53, 55 

Cryptomeria 46 

Custard Apple 51 

Cypress 44, 45, 55 

Cytisus 55 

Dahlias 112, 114 

Deciduous Trees 47, 48, 169 

Deutzia 56 

Dogwood 56 

Dolichos 59 

Dracena 49 

Elm 48 

Eucalyptus 39, 52-54 

hardy 52, 53 

Eugenia 51 

Evergreen Trees 38-47 

Evonymus, shrubby 54 

climbing 59 

Feijoa 52 

Fences, hedges, walls 18 

Ferns, house 101, 104 

Fertilizers, general (illus.)- •• 25 

lawn 24,25,34,165 

for roses 134, 135 

mixing 25 

incompatibility of 25 

Ficus macrophylla 39 

pumila (repens) 59 

Flowers, cut 108 

Fog-fruit 30 



THE GARDEN BEAUTIFUL 



207 



Fuchsia 79, 80 

Garden Calendar 161-201 

Gardening, landscape 11 

styles of 11 

Garden Seat (illus.) 9 

Gardens, formal 19 

wild 67, 68, 83, 84 

cactus : 68, 69 

wall . 69, 70 

rose 123, 197 

Genista 55 

Geraniums .79, 84 

Ginkgo 41, 48 

Gladioli 117-119 

Gophers 159 

Gourds 63 

Grading, from house 18 

Grapes, evergreen 62 

Green Fly 155-157, 160 

Grevillea robusta 39 

Guava 52 

Hackberry 48 

Hanging Baskets 99, 101 

Hedges, walls, fences 18 

Hippeastrums 110, 114 

Honeysuckle 60 

Hopvine 63 

House Plants 95, 101, 108 

potting 96, 97 

ferns 101, 104 

palms 104 

Hydrangea 56 

Iris, general 119, 120 

waterside 94 

Ivies 59 

Jacaranda 39 

Jasmine 60 

Juniper 42, 46, 54 

Kai Apple 51 

Kentucky Blue Grass 28 

Larkspur 80, 81 

Lawns, general 23, 24, 176 

fertilizers for 24, 25, 34, 169 

care of 27 

seed for 27 

grasses for 28 

clover 29 

lippia 30, 32 

weeds in 26, 27, 33 

witch grass 33 

devil grass 33 

Bermuda grass 33 

dandelions 34 

chickweed 34 

sorrel 34 

lime for 34 

wood ashes 84 

fertilizing 165, 169, 176 

soils for 21,22 

planting season 24 



watering 27 

mowing, when 28 

Leptospermum 55 

Libocedrus 41, 46 

Ligustrum 39 

Lilac . . . ._ 56 

Lilies, garden 115, 116 

water 88, 90 

Lippia 30-32 

Locust Tree 53, 55 

Loquat 52 

Lotus, Egyptian 91 

Maidenhair Tree 41, 48 

Mango 51 

Maples 48, 54, 55 

Mesquite 54 

Mildew, on Rose 127,128,159 

Mock Orange 56 

Monkey Puzzle 42 

More ton Bay Fig 39 

Mulberry, true 54 

paper 48 

Myoporum 54 

Nerium 39 

Oak, cork 39 

live 39 

caterpillars on 158 

Old-fashioned Flowers 78 

Oleander 39 

Osage Orange 54 

Palms 14, 48, 49, 54 

house 104 

misuse of 12 

Palo Verde 54 

Parasol Tree 48 

Passion vine 60 

Peas, sweet 75, 76 

Pecan- 48 

Pelargoniums 79 

Pepper Tree 39 

Perennials, herbaceous 76-78 

division of 177 

Pergola (illus.) 20 

Persea 51 

Pests and Diseases 153 

Philadelphus 56 

Phlox, perennial 78, 79 

Pine 40, 41, 42, 45, 55 

Pittosporum 39 

Plane Tree 48, 54 

Planning, general 7, 18 

what to avoid 8 

what to grow 10 

open lawns 12 

massed planting 14 

avoid straight lines 17 

utility plats 19 

back yards 20 

roads and paths 22 

Plans (illus.) 13,15,16 

Planting Calendar 161, 201 

Plant Lice 155-157 



208 



THE GARDEN BEAUTIFUL 



Plants for alkali 81 

for sandy soils 81 

Platanus 48 

Plum, purple-leaved 54 

Podocarpus 46 

Poinsettia 54 

Pomegranate 54 

Ponds • • • • §7 

Poplars 48, 53-55 

Poppies, true 74, 75 

Privet 39, 54 

Propagation by cuttings 171 

by division 172 

timely 196 

Quercus agrif olia 39 

suber 39 

Quince, flowering 5b 

R a ts 158 

Red Spider 157,158,160 

Redwood 40 

Rockeries, building . 65 

where to build 66, 67 

Roses, garden 123 

gardens • . • • l*d 

types of 123,124 

mildew on 127, 128, 159 

summer treatment 125-127 

winter treatment 127 

soils for 125 

propagation of 128 

cuttings of 129 

budding 130 

budding (illus.) 131 

from seeds 132 

pruning 133, 175, 197 

fertilizers for 134, 175, 198 

lists of 136-141 

climbing 139-141 

history of 141-142 

red spider on 160 

planting 199 

Sapodilla 52 

Sapota 51, 52 

Scale Insects 157, 158 

Schinus molle 39 

Seed Sowing 161 

Sequoia 40 

Shrubs, fruiting 51, 52 

for deserts 54 

deciduous 55, 56 

see garden calendar 161 

pruning 174 

evergreen 193 

spring-flowering 56 

Silk Oak 39 

Slugs and Snails 158 

Snowball 56 

Snowberry 56 

Solandra 61 



Solanum 61 

Sollya 61 

Spindle Tree 54 

Spirea 56 

Spruce 40 

Squirrels, ground 159 

St. John's Bread 39, 55 

Sterculia 39, 48 

Sweet Shrub 56 

Sycamore 48, 54 

Syringa 56 

Tacsonia 61 

Tamarisk 54, 55 

Terrace Covers 31 

Thuya 42, 43, 54 

Trachycarpus 49 

Tree of Heaven 54, 55 

Trees, general 35 

splitting forks 56 

measuring (illus.) 36 

planting 37, 168, 169 

for streets 37, 38 

evergreen 38-40, 168 

coniferous 40-46, 198 

deciduous 47, 48, 169 

ornamental fruit 21, 50, 51 

for deserts 53 

for alkaline soils 54, 55 

see garden calendar .... 161-201 

citrus 50 

pruning (illus.) 55 

Tulip Tree 48 

Umbrella Tree 48, 53 

Victoria 90 

Vines, deciduous 62, 63 

evergreen 58-62 

misuse of 64 

gourds, squashes, etc 63 

pruning 174, 175 

on buildings 57 

heat-resistant 63 

Virginia Creeper 63 

Vitis 62 

Walnut 54 

Water Gardens, general 85 

Water Lilies 88, 90 

soils for 91 

pests 93, 94 

Weigelia 56 

Willow 53, 55 

Wire Vine 60 

Wistaria 63 

Worms, in pots 156 

cut-worms 156-157 

Yew 46, 47 

Zapote 52 



